[Jdimick298]

How much did it cost for that? Looks like they even cleaned them up before coating.

They bead blasted before, they charged $450

 

[shovelrick]

I've had to raise the BB engine on my 73 Elky, and this 68 every time to get headers in or out, mostly Drvs side is the problem, X2 on Blue Painters masking tape & duct tape, Wish I'd done that with my coated Patriot headers

 

[blm]

Ya these headers only work being individual pieces because 2 primaries go on one side of the frame and 2 on the other.

I do recall something along those lines. We’re those referred to as “race headers” or something like that?
How does that work with inner fenders?

 

[Jdimick298]

I do recall something along those lines. We’re those referred to as “race headers” or something like that?
How does that work with inner fenders?

Correct , and as for the inner fenders they are trimmed.

 

[Jdimick298]

I've had to raise the BB engine on my 73 Elky, and this 68 every time to get headers in or out, mostly Drvs side is the problem, X2 on Blue Painters masking tape & duct tape, Wish I'd done that with my coated Patriot headers

Ya I got lucky, I don't need to lift the engine, just removal of the starter and alternator. I like the painters tape idea, gonna try that. Thanks

 

[shovelrick]

Ya I got lucky, I don't need to lift the engine, just removal of the starter and alternator. I like the painters tape idea, gonna try that. Thanks

That was the other members idea I just though painters tape might be easier to get off later

 

[BillyGman]

Lemmons has two types of headers: Racing, and Pro Touring. Their racing headers, (which is what the OP has) have two primary tubes on the drivers side, and two tubes on the passenger side going outside the frame rails and invading the wheel wells. And their Pro Touring headers keep all the primary tubes inside the frame rails. The largest primary tube size on the Pro Touring headers is 2 1/8" diameter, and Dan Lemmons will give you the option to have slip-on collectors and individual primary tubes with their Pro Touring headers if you so choose, just like their Racing headers have. Having individual tubes with the slip-on collectors makes installation a whole lot easier, and in many cases, the engine will not even need to be raised off of the motor mount.

According the installation instructions, there isn't any necessary sequence of the individual primary tubes for the Pro Tour headers, but for the Racing headers like the OP has, it says the following;
"Driver side: install #1 then #7 from the bottom and snug the header bolts, but don’t tighten. Then install #3 and #5 these are the tubes around the frame, snug the bolts. Now install the collector and go back and tighten all the header bolts.
Passenger side: install #2 and #4 from below with the starter in place, then #6 and #8 these tubes go around the frame, then install the collector. If there is such a thing as an easy header to install this is it.
Refer to our header installation tip’s page for additional information."

Dan Lemons will also impression stamp the cylinder number on the flange of each primary tube if the customers so desires, (before the ceramic coating of course) to avoid any confusion as to which primary tube goes to which cylinder during installation. Dan Lemmons is a great guy to work with, and the guy knows his business very well. He will ask you a series of questions about your car and the accessories, and about what cylinder heads you have, and just by knowing what cylinder heads you have, he knows if they have raised exhaust ports, and if so, he also knows exactly how much they're raised. Calling Dan and speaking with him is nothing like speaking to so called "tech" people who man the telephone lines at most aftermarket businesses. Dan is hands-on and he takes part in your header build.

To The OP: with ceramic coated headers, the instructions also specify that you need to either use a piece of 80 grit sand paper by hand, or a #40 flapper wheel with a die grinder or high speed drill motor to scuff off most of the ceramic coating on the inside of the beginning of the slip-on tube area, and also use Permatex Copper anti-seize on them to aid installation, and disassembly, and to prevent corrosion. I asked him if the Permatex Nickel anti-seize can be used as an alternative, since that is rated to 1,000 degrees hotter than the copper anti-seize is, (2,400 F.) and he said the he didn't see why not. Although I'm sure that either one would be fine since the collectors aren't going to get as hot as the beginning of the primary tubes near the flanges.

 

[blm]

Billy,
You are correct. I recall talking with Dan when ordering my headers. Very knowledgeable man who definately knows his business. Just wish they were easier to install. Having a slip on collector would help.

 

[BillyGman]

In case the OP hasn't thought to go onto the Lemons website:

From Lemons installation tips page....


Ceramic coated headers:
When installing polished silver ceramic coated headers, they should first be wiped down with rubbing alcohol. Use a clean white cloth to apply the alcohol, then a clean dry white cloth to remove the residue. If your headers have slip on collectors, read the slip on collectors section on this page. After the headers have been installed, repeat the alcohol cleaning process to any areas that are accessible. This will remove the fingerprints, grease, excess anti-seize, smudges, etc. Next start your engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes, then shut the engine off and let it completely cool down. Next run the engine again for about 10 minutes and then let it cool down. This process will help to bake the new finish on, making it tougher and will greatly reduce the chance of any dulling of the finish in the future.

This^^ might be a problem in the event a new flat tappet camshaft has to be broken in since the cam manufactures call for the engine to be run for 20 minutes [email protected],200 RPM without shutting it down for cam lobe break-in, (at least that's what they used to say. It's been awhile since I had a flat tappet cam). This is just another reason to order Lemons headers with slip-on collectors and individual primary tubes being separate. Because that way, you can use your kitchen oven for a more controlled three step ceramic coating cure process, (if you dare to do that while the Mrs. is shopping or out of town ). Of course I would highly suggest opening all the windows during the process, since the fumes would likely be toxic. I'd also place the tubes on a couple layers of non-stick aluminum foil rather than directly on the oven racks.

 

[Jdimick298]

Lemmons has two types of headers: Racing, and Pro Touring. Their racing headers, (which is what the OP has) have two primary tubes on the drivers side, and two tubes on the passenger side going outside the frame rails and invading the wheel wells. And their Pro Touring headers keep all the primary tubes inside the frame rails. The largest primary tube size on the Pro Touring headers is 2 1/8" diameter, and Dan Lemmons will give you the option to have slip-on collectors and individual primary tubes with their Pro Touring headers if you so choose, just like their Racing headers have. Having individual tubes with the slip-on collectors makes installation a whole lot easier, and in many cases, the engine will not even need to be raised off of the motor mount.

According the installation instructions, there isn't any necessary sequence of the individual primary tubes for the Pro Tour headers, but for the Racing headers like the OP has, it says the following;
"Driver side: install #1 then #7 from the bottom and snug the header bolts, but don’t tighten. Then install #3 and #5 these are the tubes around the frame, snug the bolts. Now install the collector and go back and tighten all the header bolts.
Passenger side: install #2 and #4 from below with the starter in place, then #6 and #8 these tubes go around the frame, then install the collector. If there is such a thing as an easy header to install this is it.
Refer to our header installation tip’s page for additional information."

Dan Lemons will also impression stamp the cylinder number on the flange of each primary tube if the customers so desires, (before the ceramic coating of course) to avoid any confusion as to which primary tube goes to which cylinder during installation. Dan Lemmons is a great guy to work with, and the guy knows his business very well. He will ask you a series of questions about your car and the accessories, and about what cylinder heads you have, and just by knowing what cylinder heads you have, he knows if they have raised exhaust ports, and if so, he also knows exactly how much they're raised. Calling Dan and speaking with him is nothing like speaking to so called "tech" people who man the telephone lines at most aftermarket businesses. Dan is hands-on and he takes part in your header build.

To The OP: with ceramic coated headers, the instructions also specify that you need to either use a piece of 80 grit sand paper by hand, or a #40 flapper wheel with a die grinder or high speed drill motor to scuff off most of the ceramic coating on the inside of the beginning of the slip-on tube area, and also use Permatex Copper anti-seize on them to aid installation, and disassembly, and to prevent corrosion. I asked him if the Permatex Nickel anti-seize can be used as an alternative, since that is rated to 1,000 degrees hotter than the copper anti-seize is, (2,400 F.) and he said the he didn't see why not. Although I'm sure that either one would be fine since the collectors aren't going to get as hot as the beginning of the primary tubes near the flanges.

Thank you! I appreciate the info and ill take a pic when I find time to install!

 

[Kopfjaeger]

My Lemons look like hellin a hand basket. The passenger side was bitch. Could not get the starter in. Marred the headers up pretty good. Once I’m more fed up with the way they look, I‘LL have Dan make me a set of individual tube headers. At least for the passenger side. I’ll cut them off.
Dan is a craftsman and his product is worth the money.
Joe

 

[blm]

I‘LL have Dan make me a set of individual tube headers. At least for the passenger side.
Joe

Joe,
Might be a dumb question but do you think your existing headers could be modified to individual tubes or is it more complicated than that?

 

[Kopfjaeger]

Brad,
I imagine the tube lengths are not 100% identical to the slip on collector/individual tube variant. It was so difficult to get that header/starter in, That I swore I would cut the headers in thirds if I ever had to get that starter out. Their that or flatten a tube or tw, then get them Jet coated. I just needed an eighth of an inch.

 

[BillyGman]

My Lemons look like hellin a hand basket. The passenger side was bitch. Could not get the starter in. Marred the headers up pretty good. Once I’m more fed up with the way they look, I‘LL have Dan make me a set of individual tube headers. At least for the passenger side. I’ll cut them off.
Dan is a craftsman and his product is worth the money.
Joe

You DID use a mini-starter, correct? When I had 2 1/8" one piece headers, even though I used a mini-starter, I had to loosely install the passenger header using two header bolts turned into the heads only two turns, just to hang the header there, so I can pivot it or swing it outward/upward while fishing the mini-starter in place to push the starter bolts through to get it anchored onto the block. I also wired the starter ahead of time, (I think I may have had it resting on a 4 by 4 piece of wood so it was fairly close to the engine, but far enough away to avoid it getting in the way of the header while I was loosely mounting it onto the cylinder heads).

Then I torqued the two starter bolts in, and proceeded to tighten the header to the heads. It worked ok for me doing it that way.

 

[Kopfjaeger]

Bill,
Yes, followed Dan’s instructions to the letter. No matter how I tried, I could not squeak that starter past the tube. All I needed was “a hair”.

Joe

 

[Jdimick298]

Found time to install! Thanks for all the advice. Install went pretty smooth. Haven't ran it yet hopefully this weekend.