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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my big block heads back from the machine shop, where they got paint stripped, magnafluxed, and all the components checked and gone over. The valves were OK and the guides were OK. I was actually hoping for something goofy, which would have cause one cylinder to be down 25 psi.

The exhaust seats were OK, but I had them put in hardened ones anyway because I don't ever want to think about lead substitute again. The seals were apparently roached, they put in "no leak" units. Then they "knurled" the guides, even though I told them to replace anything remotely suspicious and he could have made more money replacing them. When I asked the machinist why he didn't just put new ones in, he said he actually put spiral flutes in the guides as an oil sipe, necessary for lubrication with the "no leak" seals. Anyone heard of doing that?

Oh, yeah, the bill was $350. They checked my RPM Performer manifold, and it was tweaked. They resurfaced it for another $50. He could have told me I need valves, springs, and all kinds of stuff to run up the bill, but didn't. Maybe $350 was a snorking, I don't know.

The guy who did them is supposed to be THE man in these parts. He apparently builds some wicked drag race engines.

And finally, the heads are beautiful bare iron now, really purrrr-deeee. But that won't last, so I need to paint them. Anyone got a favorite brand/procedure for painting heads?
 

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My advice for painting bare heads or blocks is to primer with Cast Blast and follow with Plasticoat Chevy Orange. Turns out beautiful and has lasted well for me.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575
My '69 SS
 

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$350 sure sounds high for basically cleaning them up and handing them back. Ever seen heads magnafluxed? the sprinkle some powder and blow on them, takes about 2 min.s per head.
 

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knurling is a cheap way to fix a guide... look at the handle of a good tool and see how it's been crosshatched?? well the inside of the guide is done that way then reamed to size... when the high points wear down the guide is JUNK! Should have had bronze inserts installed or new guides I think. Just my .02 worth~~
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I talked to the machinist when he first took them apart. He said the valves and guides were good, well with acceptable lateral play tolerances. That was why I was puzzled by the "knurl" on the receipt when I picked them up. He got quite defensive when I questioned about it, I even said "the guys on my Chevelle internet group said knurling was a band-aid". He sternly replied that they used to knurl to fix guides during the stone age, that wasn't what he did. He said it's a spiral flute like a gun barrel. The receipt was computer generated with work codes for each procedure (about 10). Maybe they didn't have one for "flute". In any case, he was adament about it being the best, permanant procedure.

Again, it wasn't to "fix" the guides, it was to make them sipe a tiny amount of oil. I gave the guy carte-blanche to do anything, replace anything, cost is no object (assuming it wouldn't exceed the cost of new heads), and that's what he did.



[This message has been edited by gibbons (edited 04-29-2001).]
 

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It depends on how well they knurled them. If the knurl is "thick" you will have no problem. There is actually a tool you can use to check how deep the knurling is. Bronze guides have their own problems. Do not worry, if this is a reputable shop, as you say, then they have probably done a nice knurl job and you will have no problems at all.

[This message has been edited by greekboy (edited 04-29-2001).]
 

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68chevmal,
There is more to magnafluxing than "blowing dust on them, Specifically using a hi power electromagnet, using flourescent iron particle dust, knowing where to look and how to place the magnet.
Then if it's an aluminum head there is a completely different proceedure

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Philip Mullaly
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