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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lots of guys post about with todays gas after running to a certian temp have idling issues, here also
GOing to try and lean the iab a little but if it keeps doing it may break down and try electric with regulator or does it need one

Wondered if a return line would keep fuel cooler?
Best way to wire this in properly?
Guage wire, relays etc etc would be appreciated
Less electrics on here the better but does get irritiating sometimes.

67 hot 383 using cater 172 mech no regualtor all 1/2 from bowl to pickup in tank all new
 

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When I was having my problem, it was from the fuel in the secondary bowl getting too hot. The phenolic spacer cured my problem There was also a sheet metal shield that was available if I remember right. Just a thought....
 

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Bill
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Don't waste your time with a dead head electric pump with or without a regulator. You will have all the same problems. Always use a return style pump and regulator set up.
 
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I was having problems as well with fuel heating up too much in the carb and creating problems.

Here is how I've pretty much solved the issue. Granted, I have a big block, but what I did is pretty generic and should apply to any carb setup.

First, I am using a Carter mechanical m4889 fuel pump. The stock fuel line used to run up between the block and water pump. I fabbed a new aluminum fuel line that runs straight up and then tucks between the valve cover and alternator, and around to my regulator. That got it out in cleaner blowing air and not stuck between the hot block and water pump.

Next, I installed an aluminum carb heat shield:

JEGS Performance Products 154050: Carburetor Heat Shield 4-Hole Style | JEGS

And on top of that, instead of the gasket/aluminum/gasket/aluminum stack, I also installed a 1/4" phenolic spacer:

Canton Racing Products 85-154: Carburetor Spacer - Phenolic Holley 4150/4160, 4BBL | JEGS

So my stackup is manifold/gasket/aluminum shield/gasket/spacer/gasket/carb.

It all fits nicely unde my hood, and I no longer am having issues with fuel heating up too much in my carb.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=378922&d=1470683325

Now, I have a regulator mounted up near the carb, but if you don't have one you could route a fuel line the same way and just plumb it direct. I just thought it was a convenient place for mine.

It may or may not work for you, but I wanted to share just in case it may help you (or anyone else) with a fuel heating issue that should help and at least works for me.
 

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Congrats on using the BEST elec fuel pump EVER made!
Somebody recently replaced a Carter 4594 elec pump after 19 yrs of use in their daily driver! Not because it stopped working [ it was still working ], but because the owner thought that he had got his money's worth out of it!!
A simple, but very effective pump; no fancy [ & expensive! ] billet alloy body that does nothing for pump performance. Just a simple design.

The 4594 is internally regulated at 5-7 psi, no reg needed if run dead headed. Have run lots of them that way. Good for about 450-500 hp. If more hp, then the 4600 series is better, two versions, internal reg or the other version requires an ext reg. Using a bypass/return fuel supply system will make the life easier for ANY elec pump & provide more consistent pressure. But more plumbing/more expense. Your call.
 
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