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1970 Chevelle Vortecpro 496, Hotchkis TVS Suspension, TH400, Factory 12 bolt/strange axles
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So ive been working on repairing some minor rear end damage on my 70.

it was a good time to replace lower quarter skins and outer wheel wells so i did that. seam sealed all joints and overlaps of sheet metal

i also removed and repaired some rust around the rear window channel and installed water drains in the corners.

i removed the doors and went all the way around the jambs of the doors and the cabin and sanded down to bear metal

rebuild the door hinges

installed all new body bushings

i removed all interior except for the head liner and dash

i removed all of the glass except the wind shield that they said they would take out.

blasted and re painted core support

purchased new AMD fenders and wheel wells for the front (still need to get these fitted)

got all new front end hardware to put everything together.

is there anything else i should do before i send it to the body shop. they asked me not to do any filler work so that they could warranty the paint job so as far as the outside im leaving it alone. I mainly wanted to get the car stripped down and all the crappy door jamb and rust repair work done so that i dont get hit with costly body shop extras while its there. i plan to have all of the body sheet metal assembled and bring it to them so they can see that everything fits and lines up, even though they will have to break it down to spray the jambs. i have read a lot about how much work it can be to get the aftermarket fenders to line up good. what more should i do or not do?

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You should buy another classic to drive during the 3-4 years of body shop prison. Then, sell it when your car is done.

Hopefully not of course. Good luck.
this is funny but also sad because a lot of the times its true.

Ask for a realistic timeline. Check in every few weeks to make sure you’re fresh in their mind. Dont pay the whole thing up front. They will spend that money pretty quick and will have to take more work to pay the bills, which means no time to work on your car. Pay a deposit. Maybe a milestone payment or 2 along the way. And then a final payment when work is done. If you pay up front you’re asking for a few years of “bodyshop prison”.

Good work on everything you’ve done. Now they dont have to spend all the hours you spent doing that leg work. They should be able to just get right to it. Just make sure everything you unbolted is bagged and tagged in an organized fashion. Nothing worse then 3 or 4 buckets showing up of random parts, pieces and bolts.
 

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Rochester, New York
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What are you doing with the frame? I'd tend to that before it comes back to you all assembled and lookin' good!
 

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1970 Chevelle Vortecpro 496, Hotchkis TVS Suspension, TH400, Factory 12 bolt/strange axles
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374 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What are you doing with the frame? I'd tend to that before it comes back to you all assembled and lookin' good!
i wish the frame was in the budget this time around but its going to have to wait. i cleaned up and re-painted all the sight spots on it, with a little more work to be done around the rear wheels and under the rocker. trust me i'd love to put in a helwig kit but i have to draw the line somewhere on this project.
 

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Gosh, somehow I feel that being in WY, you may have a better shot at NOT landing in body shop prison. I may be wrong as its a guess.
 

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Really consider doing the frame first. Even if the budget gets pushed back some. I just bought another frame for mine so I can completely rebuild/modify/powder coat it and swap it in. I should have done this the first time around because it’s a MAJOR job to now swap it in.
 

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Rochester, New York
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Really consider doing the frame first. Even if the budget gets pushed back some.
Exactly!
When you get your car back all pretty & all - you are not going to want to mess around with it then. Think about disassembling the car (and front clip) in order to separate the shell from the frame. And you are really not going to want to do it later once the entire car is all put back together.

I know you don't want to hear it, but now's the time to address your frame.
 
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Remove the door striker and 3 lock screws per door and remove and clean the lock itself. If the light switch is in each jam remove them. It's the little things that make a paint job look bad.
 

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1970 Chevelle Vortecpro 496, Hotchkis TVS Suspension, TH400, Factory 12 bolt/strange axles
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Remove the door striker and 3 lock screws per door and remove and clean the lock itself. If the light switch is in each jam remove them. It's the little things that make a paint job look bad.
i got the light switch out but good idea on the striker, ill get those out and cleaned up
 

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1969 Grand Prix. 455 TH400 12 bolt.
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Not fitting fenders / hood is probably a big mistake. In your situation... just keep them until the body comes back. Or have it filler'ed, primed, and jambed only then take it home and put it together. Come back with all the panels on for the exterior shoot. Just my .02.
 

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1970 Chevelle Vortecpro 496, Hotchkis TVS Suspension, TH400, Factory 12 bolt/strange axles
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well i went and talked to the body shop guys today and they are going to come to my house once i get the fenders fit up gapped. they told me 3-5 week turn around from the looks of things so that sounds great. while walking through the shop there was only 1 late model car getting worked on, everything else was pre-85. owner has a 70 chevelle part way through a frame off so i feel like its going to be in good hands.
 

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1970 Chevelle Vortecpro 496, Hotchkis TVS Suspension, TH400, Factory 12 bolt/strange axles
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Not fitting fenders / hood is probably a big mistake. In your situation... just keep them until the body comes back. Or have it filler'ed, primed, and jambed only then take it home and put it together. Come back with all the panels on for the exterior shoot. Just my .02.
i will be fitting up all the sheet metal and bring it to the body shop assembled for sure.
 

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Ask em how long its gonna be before you leave the car there . Then when they dance around the question which they inevitably will do then press and say ok how long on the outside? If they can't or won't answer then take your car somewhere else. Nobody's hopin my cars hostage
 

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well i went and talked to the body shop guys today and they are going to come to my house once i get the fenders fit up gapped. they told me 3-5 week turn around from the looks of things so that sounds great. while walking through the shop there was only 1 late model car getting worked on, everything else was pre-85. owner has a 70 chevelle part way through a frame off so i feel like its going to be in good hands.
That's not bad at all. 3 to 5
 

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1970 Chevelle Vortecpro 496, Hotchkis TVS Suspension, TH400, Factory 12 bolt/strange axles
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
the guys there also mentioned taking out all the lead seams at the roof line and replacing it with an epoxy, anyone heard of this?
 

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Yes I was told the same thing....I spoke to shop and they said let us take it out...when we replace the Quarter panel. I saw it was out and clean before the new panel went in.
If you do it be careful of the lead fumes... Do it outside of the garage or ventilate and wear a respirator like you would for paint...
Take lots of pics before and while it is at the shop...Don't be a pest with the shop but also Don't let them off the hook when it comes to your car and the work being done. I used to drop by unannounced to check on the progress. I did not catch them doing nothing ever except when parts were delayed then they had to wait but body and paint were done just the roof and headliner set them back.
Good Luck and stay on them.
 
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