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Discussion Starter #1
I just completed the conversion to a 1991 chevy 1500 v8 Alternator in my 64 elcamino. It went smooth with help from the techref article. Excellent reference. However, my gen light won't go out. The bron line from the gen light goes right to the regulator harness. It was on prior to the swap and is still on. The car has been running for a week now with no ill efects.
1. How do i get it to turn off.

and when that problem is fixed
2.How do hook up my ammeter (personal preference) to this system. I can't find the directions.
 

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Troubleshooting the GEN light problem.
1, I assume that you cut and soldered together the brown and blue wires that went to the old external regulator.
2, Remove the plug from the alternator.
3, Turn the ignition key to the ON position.
4, Measure the alternator connector blue wire to a good ground. You should have around 12 volts.
5, If (4) is around 12 volts, switch the key to OFF.
6, Install the alternator connector and start the engine.
7, Again measure the alternator connector blue wire to a good ground. Post back the results.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mikellyjo:
How do hook up my ammeter (personal preference) to this system. I can't find the directions.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'll give you a small tip here..
Put a fuse between the gauge and the alternator.... Because if it will short.. (And ammeters are known to do so..) You'll burn your interior up....
You don't want that!


------------------
Shai
1972 Chevelle Malibu custom 4dr
TC member #1278
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The blue wire came out with the old regulator, so the brown line comes directly from the alt. light to the alternator, per the tech ref.. At the connector with the car ignition on but not running, I get 11.49 volts. I don't have a bare wire to test with the car running. I'll have to cut into the harness. What results should I expect.
 

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***Update***
I was driving my Velle today, and out of the blue my ammeter caught fire!
My advice to you mike...
THREW THAT AMMETER AWAY!

Get a Volt meter.. Ammeters are too risky..
I was driving with mine for almost 2 months without anything wrong happending.. And today out of the blue it caught fire..
And it burnt my other guages with it...

GET RID OF IT!!! I almost lost my baby today! I don't want to see that happening to anybody else..
 

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"The blue wire came out with the old regulator, so the brown line comes directly from the alt. light to the alternator, per the tech ref."

Great. Same thing as tying the blue and brown together.

"At the connector with the car ignition on but not running, I get 11.49 volts. I don't have a bare wire to test with the car running."

I assume when you took this reading of 11.49 volts the alternator connector was not plugged in. This is a good reading. It means than the wiring between the ignition switch and the alternator is ok. The idiot light should be off at this point. Turning the key off, plugging in the alternator plug, and turning the key back on should make the light come on.

"I'll have to cut into the harness. What results should I expect."

Can you get on the backside of the connector when it is plugged in? Where the wire is crimped to the contact. A thin probe should get in there. With the connector plugged in, key on, and engine not running you should have a lower voltage. Maybe around 6 volts. The idiot light should be on as mentioned above.

After you start the car the voltage should go up to 12 volts on the alternator connector blue wire when it is plugged in. This 12 volts from the alternator is equal to the 12 volts from the ignition switch. The 2 equal voltages on each side of the idiot light turns is off.

Chaos

You still have an external regulator? Think maybe that's acting up. If the blue wire burnt and the brown did not sounds like something down near the regulator.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by John_Muha:


Chaos

You still have an external regulator? Think maybe that's acting up. If the blue wire burnt and the brown did not sounds like something down near the regulator.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Haha.. You didn't understand me..
I said "Out of the blue"
I meant.. Out no where... For no reason...

Not "Out of the blue" wire...


------------------
Shai
1972 Chevelle Malibu custom 4dr
TC member #1278

*EDIT*
I guess I didn't read it right. English is my first language so I'm handicapped. Need to quit doing 3 things at one time.
Take Care
John


[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 03-26-2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The voltage test with the car running produced the following results.

On the regulator connector there are three wires. One large red wire that is connected to the batt. terminal of the alternator (12.04 V) One black wire that isn't connected to anything (7.4 V) and one brown wire that is connected to the brown wire to the idiot light (7.4 V).

With the the ignition in the on position and disconnected from the alternator the same wires yield the following results.
Red wire 12.04 V as expected. Black (0 V). Brown (0 Volts).

My initial assumption is that I got a bad alternator out of the box.

Any Ideas?
 

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Before I start picking on the alternator, the one you call the black line. Is it really not connected at all? This is the sense line and at least should be jumpered to the rear stud (red) on the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Correct, the black line isn't going to anything. I will connect it tonight and see what that does.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
BLACK WIRE CONNECTED TO THE TERMINAL WITH THE RED WIRES AND STILL NO CHANGE.
 

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Well, the alternator needs to come up to 12 volts on the brown wire when it is running. Otherwise the light will not turn off. You have the 12 volts from the ignition switch to the lamp. From this side of the screen, sounds like the alternator. Good luck.
 

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I don't know if this helps but I've got a connector here from a 90 or so truck (87-94 I think would be the possible years). This connector has 1 wire. It goes to the middle small terminal marked L. This is the only wire on this connector and this isn't the only time I've seen it that way on this vintage of truck. In fact, all of the trucks I've looked at are this way. Of course, I only began to look recently since I want to use this alternator. This makes me believe these alternators are basically the same internally as the aftermarket 1-wire alternators.

FYI, My thinking is that I would have no real problem installing an aftermarket 1-wire alternator but I'd connect the light anyways so I know it's charging and to get it to start charging when the car starts. So, once I do that I might as well just go with a standard GM alternator.

Peter

[This message has been edited by Peter F. (edited 03-28-2002).]
 
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