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Discussion Starter #1
Throwing this out there in case anyone might know the issue. Have a GE Cafe electric oven. None of the burners or the oven will heat. Thought it might have been the “lock” feature but pretty sure that is checking good as I hear a relay opening and closing when I select the lock on and off. The indications come on for each individual burner and the oven indication comes on just nothing is producing any heat. I assume these are all tied together to a single fuse or switch. Anyone in the know?
 

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Sounds like a bad connection that's not letting enough current through to heat the elements up.. Just because a volt meter registers doesn't mean there enough electrons to make it happen, kind of like when a garden hose gets a slight kink...
 

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Might have also lost one side of the 240. The indicators etc are all 120 and powered from one side of the 240 feed. Have you checked the breaker ?
 

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It's pretty common for 220v stuff to use aluminum wiring. Do you know if yours is copper or aluminum? If it's aluminum, start by tightening the connections at the outlet and at the circuit breaker. Goes without saying, but shut off the breaker before you do this.

Side note: I learned the hard way what loose aluminum connections can do, most recently when my AC disconnect box melted and almost caught fire. Now it's on my annual checklist to tighten the connections. It's only like a 10' or 15' run from my panel so I should probably just replace the aluminum wiring with copper and call it done.
 

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i will agree with everyone saying check 240 and 120 on each leg with the ground/neutral. Going back years ago with a kitchen remodel at my weekend place, i did something i cant quite remember, but i think i had a ground issue, but only part of the range worked. Maybe it was the burners worked but not the oven, something like that.

FYI - if it has a push button digital display type set up, they are pretty notorious for going bad, or having solder joints fail, especially if you do self clean sometimes. There are people that rebuild those all over the internet. just need to to do some trouble shooting to figure out if that could be the culprit. I had to have the one in my old house rebuilt......i really like the range, and it was actually a quality piece, so instead of just tossing it, i had the control rebuilt.
 

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1970 SS 396 25-C, 1966 SS R-R
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Brad do you have the owners manual and does it have the wiring schematic in it. If not try to get the model number and post it so I can find a schematic, makes troubleshooting a lot easier.
 

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1967 Chevy Chevelle
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Open up the back of the top control, the wiring schematic is usually in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do have the wiring schematic. Just noticed the issue last evening (dinner time) and I had to leave at 4:00 AM this mourning for work, so I didn’t have a lot of time to mess with it and won’t get a chance to check it out till Friday. So I assume the 110 legs are the two angles in the outlet and the ground is the straight slot? Also let the wife go down and flip the breaker and she did interrupt the power but I should have checked the breakers myself. It’s copper wire.
 

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I do have the wiring schematic. Just noticed it last evening (dinner time) and I had to leave at 4:00 AM for work, so I didn’t have a lot of time to mess with it and won’t get a chance to check it out till Friday. So I assume the 110 legs are the two angles in the outlet and the ground is the straight slot? Also let the wife go down and flip the breaker and she did interrupt the power but I should have checked the breakers myself.
Right.

So if you have 240 volts at the outlet, check it at the other end of the cord which is attached to the stove.

BTW, Now days the stoves need 4 wires in able to stop current from going to the ground, like the old electrical code allowed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Stayed tuned on Friday guys, I’ll probably be posting an update or some additional questions.
 

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Ding,ding,ding, Update. It’s fixed. For those that said it dropped a leg, you were right but it was in kinda a strange way. I went to check for power at the outlet and had to take the cover off. At first I thought I was good because I was checking for power at the screws that hold the wires at their termination. I noticed one of the sets of prongs on the 110 leg were spread apart. So I thought before I put the cover back on I’ll bend them back together. As soon as I put a pair of pliers on the prongs one side fell off. It must have been hanging on by a thread. Anyway I thought that was odd as that stove hasn’t been unplugged for a year or two and I can’t remember taking the outlet cover off. Anyway new 220 outlet and all is good. Below is the Broken off prong from the leg on the right hand side.
 

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