Chevelles.com banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
874 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Im wiring my pro-comp tach and I noticed my sunmeter gauges are wired funny. First of all the instrument lighting wires are all wired to 1 wire that is then wired to the LPS 4amp fuse box. The lights work fine in all these but the ampmeter has never worked. Should this red wire on the ampmeter be wired to something other than a 4 amp fuse box connection? What are the best areas to wire the 4 wires from the Pro-comp tach? The inside 2 will go to a light source(from other gauges ) and the main power will be wired where? The other 2 go out into the engine compartment. One is hooked right into my MSD box? The other is best grounded where?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,762 Posts
Sorry
Not familiar with Sunmeter. Just really guessing. If the ammeter has only 1 wire coming out of it (besides the light and ground) it sounds like its a voltmeter. Moving that lead around won't make much difference. Can't picture your tach leads. If the tach works and the car doesn't have problems, I guess that spot on the MSD is OK. A good ground is all it needs. One spot is not better than another. Sorry I wagged at this. Maybe there's a better out there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
874 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The ampmeter has 2 wires coming out of it. One is red and the other is a black ground. The red goes to the 4 amp lamp fuse box space and the blacks on all the gauges are not hooked up. All work except the ampmeter. The light does work in all of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Here's a little more input. First of all the instrument lighting wires are all tied to one, sounds correct since, I assume each gauge has a bulb that lights and works. The ampmeter needs to be spliced into your factory wire harness, they should be fairly large gauge wires like 4 gauge or something like that, (or maybe this connection can be made right at the alternator, by taking the main wire off the alternator and running a jumper to one of the ampmeter wires and jumping the other wire back to the main alt. wire to complete the circuit) someone else may have more input on this. Also, this is the main power for the car these connections have to be tight and all wires need to be run correctly, you do not want one of these wires shorting out.
The red wire from the ampmeter that you have connected to your lamp fuse does not sound correct at all (enless its a bulb). The blacks are ground and should be hooked up anyway, even though the ground is most likely making through a metal gage bracket screwed to the metal dash or something because you say they work. I hope someone else can help you also.
AND John_Muha thanks for reminding me to get the horn relay off that junk "72", turns out I needed it I now have a horn YAA BUDDY. I just assumed it worked cause I could here it clicking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
874 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Another question.........Where is the easiest place to find a 12v ignition wire to wire my Pro Comp tach to?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
The fuse box under the dash has optional points of contact you can plug right in with a spade connector. There is a constant 12v, an accesory 12v, a ignition 12v, and you know lmps 12v.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,762 Posts
It's best to use the IGN or switched terminal instead of the non switched BAT terminal. This way your tach is off when the car is off. Still could not find any manufacturer's literature on Sunmeter, so I can't give you a positive answer on your voltmeter.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top