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I'm still messing around with converting my standard round gauges to the optional tach and gauges. Everything is intalled. Nothing works except the tach.
Amp Gauge: Nothing, didn't move or anything. Decided to troubleshoot. No power to terminals when going through the fuseblock. We took the wires that are in the engine bay (black with white stripe and just black) and bypassed everything and touched them directly to the terminals on the amp gauge. Nothing either way. Unless this isn't something that should work like we thought, I'm guessing the gauge is dead. The wires themselves are both hot with key off and batteries on though, not sure if that is supposed to be.
Temp Gauge: With the key turned in the on/ignition position, the needle flickers a bit. The gauge only goes to 250, but for the heck of it let's say with car off the needle is on 280, but with power its 270. It was awkward for me to test voltage, and I should have been a lot more thorough, but looking at the gauge from the circuitboard side, touching the top terminal and the left terminal gives me 12 volts. I removed my resistor from the fuel gauge and put it on the temp vertically as called for. I'm guessing resistors provide resistance both ways, so it's not like it could be on 'upside down' in a sense. The wire I used in the engine bay is the dark green wire, I discared the dk green with white wire because I read that was the TCS.
Fuel gauge: Heh, while I was technically low on fuel before swap, I had about a 1/4 tank and when I turn the car on it should move up a little in my opinion. It's sitting on E.
Tach works, and in my opinion by listening by ear, is accurate.
May be heresy to say here, but the amp gauge is what I'm least concerned about, gauge-wise. I'm more concered about fuel, and then temperature.
The only ground that was removed when I took the cluster out was the wiper switch to ground. It was reconnected and is right (I know this because it wasn't right before but we fixed it).
Wondering if I'm right about the amp gauge just being dead, but mainly wondering what sorts of voltages I should be seeing on the temp and fuel gauge and where I should be measuring. That would at least give me a lead if not let me know how to fix it.
I'm concerned because I can't have the car down any longer because I'm using other family member's vehicles, and my car's been down a week and windshield needs to go in tomorrow.
If anyone can help me out...thank you!
Amp Gauge: Nothing, didn't move or anything. Decided to troubleshoot. No power to terminals when going through the fuseblock. We took the wires that are in the engine bay (black with white stripe and just black) and bypassed everything and touched them directly to the terminals on the amp gauge. Nothing either way. Unless this isn't something that should work like we thought, I'm guessing the gauge is dead. The wires themselves are both hot with key off and batteries on though, not sure if that is supposed to be.
Temp Gauge: With the key turned in the on/ignition position, the needle flickers a bit. The gauge only goes to 250, but for the heck of it let's say with car off the needle is on 280, but with power its 270. It was awkward for me to test voltage, and I should have been a lot more thorough, but looking at the gauge from the circuitboard side, touching the top terminal and the left terminal gives me 12 volts. I removed my resistor from the fuel gauge and put it on the temp vertically as called for. I'm guessing resistors provide resistance both ways, so it's not like it could be on 'upside down' in a sense. The wire I used in the engine bay is the dark green wire, I discared the dk green with white wire because I read that was the TCS.
Fuel gauge: Heh, while I was technically low on fuel before swap, I had about a 1/4 tank and when I turn the car on it should move up a little in my opinion. It's sitting on E.
Tach works, and in my opinion by listening by ear, is accurate.
May be heresy to say here, but the amp gauge is what I'm least concerned about, gauge-wise. I'm more concered about fuel, and then temperature.
The only ground that was removed when I took the cluster out was the wiper switch to ground. It was reconnected and is right (I know this because it wasn't right before but we fixed it).
Wondering if I'm right about the amp gauge just being dead, but mainly wondering what sorts of voltages I should be seeing on the temp and fuel gauge and where I should be measuring. That would at least give me a lead if not let me know how to fix it.
I'm concerned because I can't have the car down any longer because I'm using other family member's vehicles, and my car's been down a week and windshield needs to go in tomorrow.
If anyone can help me out...thank you!
