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Last month I put 67 gauges in my 66 before the changeover my old gauge worked fine. When i plugged in the new gauge it immedeiately PEGGED out!!! Now when I plug in the old gauge it does the same thing only it peggs slowly compared to the new gauge that really jumps. I have tried reversing the wires only to have the gauge peg out on empty rather than full. I have traced the wireing and see no problems . any suggestions???
 

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GM gas gages peg when the circuit from the dash to the tank (brown wire) or the fuel tank unit is open. Use an ohm meter to check the resistance from the fuel tank unit pigtail at the rear of the fuel tank to ground. 0 ohms, tank is empty; 42 ohms, tank is half full; 80-88 ohms, tank is full; more than 88 ohms, tank unit is bad.

Another note: gas gauges are damped in order to limit needle movement due to tank slosh. The gauge should respond slowly when a voltage is applied.

[This message has been edited by faldrich (edited 11-23-98).]
 

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Thanks for the info it will be very helpful . but if my new gauge pegs immediately it sounds like it may not be "damped"? and I apologize for being a plain old "gear Head" because I don't know what that means?!?!?!what can I do to check and or fix this? Thanks again , I have been baffled by this.
 

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I had a similar problem with the temp gage in a 77 Trans Am I had. It pegged when ever the key was turned on no matter what the temp was. The dampening affect is caused by a resistor on the back of my gage that acts as a shunt, this routes some current around the gage. When this burned out all of the electric current tries to go through the gage causing it to peg. The resistor on my gage looked like a little piece of ceramic with two holes for the connections and a stripe on it. I have seen them in autoparts store in the past but not recently. If you decide to chenge it be careful not to damage the gage movement because the springs inside it are small and very fragile. Good Luck
 
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