[72sselcamino]

I have to admit I know nothing when it comes to wiring, so please bare with me.

First, a real stupid question. When I got my car back from the body shop, it had all the light's took out. I started by putting in the tail light's in, but nothing would work. Does the front light's have to be in also for the rears to work. The rear harness was a joke. I made a new one myself. The yaehoo that had the car before me had an extention cord running to the back, but I don't know if it supplied power to the entire rear or what.

I'm just doing a temporary wiring job just to get everything working so I can drive the car.

The next problem is that only the left half of the fuse block is hot. The brakes are on that side, but the turn signal is on the other. I'm assuming this is where my problem is. Can you guy's tell me where the right side of the fuse block gets it's power from. I can't even see it on the engine side because of the brake booster.

Thanks for any input. Cal

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TC Member # 1308

my trailer queen
future racer
justins 67
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[John_Muha]

"Does the front light's have to be in also for the rears to work."

No they do not have to be in for the rear running (tail) lights to work. You will have a problem with the rear turn signals if the front bulbs are not in. See if you have 12 volts to ground on the brown wire with the headlight switch on.

"The next problem is that only the left half of the fuse block is hot. The brakes are on that side, but the turn signal is on the other. I'm assuming this is where my problem is. Can you guy's tell me where the right side of the fuse block gets it's power from."

You actually have it half figured out and just missed it. The left side of the block is the battery side or always hot side. Look at the items the fuses are for. The right side is the ignition switched items. Again check out what the fuses are for. Large pink wire from the ignition switch is the power source for these guys. Dropping the column is the easiest way to get at the ignition switch to check it.

"I can't even see it on the engine side because of the brake booster."

Not sure what you are looking for. The fuseblock is on the inside. It screws over top of the inside bulkhead connector. I don't think your problem is in the outside bulkhead connector because you have battery power in the fuse block.

 

[72sselcamino]

Thanks so much for answering John.

I thought maybe there was a problem with the wires on the engine side bulk head. Just looking for something obvious. Like I said though, I don't know to much about wiring.

I think you probly found the source of the problem. None of the spaded acc. prong's are hot either. I'll check for that pink wire tomorrow. Thanks again. Cal

 

[John_Muha]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 72sselcamino:
Like I said though, I don't know to much about wiring.

I think you probly found the source of the problem. None of the spaded acc. prong's are hot either. I'll check for that pink wire tomorrow. Thanks again. Cal<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

For somebody that doesn't know much you were just about there without any help.
*EDIT*
If is is the ignition switch they are available over the counter at the chain auto stores.



[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 08-01-2002).]

 

[72sselcamino]

This sounds like a good time to put in my new tilt wheel.

Do you think that will solve the problem. Would the elec connection on a 70 tilt wheel work on my 72. If that won't work, I do have a 72 tilt, but it needs the joint fixed.

If not, I guess the next step is to trace pink wire from the ign. switch to the fuse block.

Thanks again. Cal

 

[John_Muha]

The 70 should drop in there. The only problem you should run into is the Neutral Safety Start switch. The 72 has an extra connector for the seat belt warning system. Doesn't work well anyway. Mine's not connected.

 

[72sselcamino]

Well I was going to lie so you wouldn't know how stupid I am. I fixed it all right. It was real easy. TURN THE FRICKIN KEY ON STUPID.

I had a couple of fuses that was out on the left side, but they were for the power acc. and the cig lighter. When I put those fuses in, I discovered I had a door buzzer. It scared the crap out of me. The only thing that doesn't work is the very small fuse, I can't read it clearly, but I think it say's insrtument lamps.

As far as the tail light's go, I tured on the headlight's and they worked. I think what the problem was there, before when I worked on it I think the battery must have been dead. I since then put a new one in and it's working.

Like you said, the turn signal's won't work either. Hell, there's not even a flasher. I'm going to put ALL the bulb's and a new flasher in it and see what happens.

I feel like such a dumb a$$. I think maybe I should have went ahead and lied.

BTW, any ideas on that one fuse that won't work, the instrument lamps.

Thanks again, dumb a$$ Cal

 

[chev64]

The problem with the instrument panel fuse/lamps could be that the knob on the headlight switch is turned all the way to the right and needs to be turned to the left, the headlight switch has a rheostat that controls the dimming of the dash(instrument) lamps.

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Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
A.C.E.S.#3731
progress has little to do with speed, but lots to do with direction.
Maryland Chevelle Club

 

[72sselcamino]

Leo, you were real close. I tried turning the knob back and forth but nothing happened. But guess what. If you turn the headlight's on the fuse gets hot.

There was no flasher in the fuse block. I put all the bulb's in and all the turn signal's work, but my green arrow's inside don't lite up. I know that at least one did before. I can even hear a flasher. Obviously it's the one up above. Should I go ahead and put one in the fuse block too. It does seem to flash kinda slow. Also, my emergency flasher's don't work. Cal


[This message has been edited by 72sselcamino (edited 08-02-2002).]