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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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I have a Harley with the pump in the left fuel tank, I don't like that crap myself, Engineer says to other engineer, "Hum lets put an Electric Fuel Pump inside the Gas tank" Not lol
 

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It’s all about math and the almighty dollar impact to the bottom line.

They did a calculation of the MTBF of the pump, the expected lifespan of the vehicle, the number of pumps that would fail in that lifespan under warranty, the number of vehicles expected to be sold, the cost of the access panel and the additional cost of service without the access panel.

It was cheaper to the corporation to pay the few extra service dollars to drop a tank on a small handful of warranty repairs than it was to add the access panel to every vehicle.

Non-warranty repairs never factored into the equation, since that becomes either dealer service department profit or “not my problem”.
 

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Actually, its better for the pump to be submersed in fuel = quieter, cooler, more stable pressure. But I agree, no access panel sucks. But it you only have to drop the gas tank every 20-30yrs/100k miles or so, is that unreasonable?
 
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Several years back I had a worn out 1988 S-10 4X4 that was handy around my acreage.

The old 2.8 V6, TBI ran good but naturally the fuel pump died and was inside the gas tank.

What do do...????

I Didn't want to drop the gas tank but realized there was another small one under the hood.

Drove it for 2 yrs on the windshield washer tank and W/W pump!!

Thanks
Randy


704479
 

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Several years back I had a worn out 1988 S-10 4X4 that was handy around my acreage.

The old 2.8 V6, TBI ran good but naturally the fuel pump died and was inside the gas tank.

What do do...????

I Didn't want to drop the gas tank but realized there was another small one under the hood.

Drove it for 2 yrs on the windshield washer tank and W/W pump!!

Thanks
Randy


View attachment 704479
Nice farm truck!
Necessity is the mother!
 
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I went through this and it turned out to be the crank position sensor. The clue no clue it does not throw a code.
 

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I can feel for you guys with dead in tank fuel pumps. I worked on this crap for GM for 25 years and hated everyone that came in and most with full tanks of fuel. Some cars in the late 90's started showing up with access panels like the Buick Park Avenues did. The truck were not so good, here is what I did on both of my Suburban's. I made my own access panel after watching some videos about this problem on YouTube, you know what it worked great. My old '99 Subby had a pump go out and the tank was starting to leak so I cut the hole then. Glad I did, a few months after the 1st new pump went in it sheet the bed and that access door sure worked great. I like it so much that I added one on my '02 Subby also. As for Pickups we just pulled the boxes off to replace them. On my 94 Z/28 I used a template off of LS1 tech and copied it off to my car body and cut the hole against the advise of everyone, but you know it frickin' worked great. Any car I have that needs a pump that not under factory warranty gets a hole guy and the new pump goes in. One thing I did find out when I worked at Hyundai, almost all their cars have access fuel pump panels. So go watch YouTube and see if you can find some help I know it did for me on this issue.
 

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GM sure ain’t what it used to be. I’m currently in the middle of a GM buy back under the lemon law. And I can now tell you what department GM shuffles their subpar employees. I’ll never buy another GM. Im glad I daily drive a Powerstroke
 
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I went through this and it turned out to be the crank position sensor. The clue no clue it does not throw a code.
That where an in-line pressure gauge would be your only clue, or not.
 

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Just sayin, I can drop the tank, full, and change a pump in a fox mustang in under two hours. Apparently it helps to practice..... Courtesy of Airfix and Autozone.
 

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Several years back I had a worn out 1988 S-10 4X4 that was handy around my acreage.

The old 2.8 V6, TBI ran good but naturally the fuel pump died and was inside the gas tank.

What do do...????

I Didn't want to drop the gas tank but realized there was another small one under the hood.

Drove it for 2 yrs on the windshield washer tank and W/W pump!!

Thanks
Randy
Yeah great idea the TBI only requires about 19-11 psi to run (13-15 spec) but that won't work on anything that is port fuel injected needing 40 plus on the earlier OBD I models and 58plus on later OBD II models.
 

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I can feel for you guys with dead in tank fuel pumps. I worked on this crap for GM for 25 years and hated everyone that came in and most with full tanks of fuel. Some cars in the late 90's started showing up with access panels like the Buick Park Avenues did. The truck were not so good, here is what I did on both of my Suburban's. I made my own access panel after watching some videos about this problem on YouTube, you know what it worked great. My old '99 Subby had a pump go out and the tank was starting to leak so I cut the hole then. Glad I did, a few months after the 1st new pump went in it sheet the bed and that access door sure worked great. I like it so much that I added one on my '02 Subby also. As for Pickups we just pulled the boxes off to replace them. On my 94 Z/28 I used a template off of LS1 tech and copied it off to my car body and cut the hole against the advise of everyone, but you know it frickin' worked great. Any car I have that needs a pump that not under factory warranty gets a hole guy and the new pump goes in. One thing I did find out when I worked at Hyundai, almost all their cars have access fuel pump panels. So go watch YouTube and see if you can find some help I know it did for me on this issue.
Anyone with a 2000 or newer GM PU truck all you have to do is remove the 4 left side pickup bed bolts and loosen the 4 on the passenger side plus the 3 screws holding the fuel inlet to the L/S fender.Then you just jack up the drivers side of the pickup bed and stick a 3 foot piece of 2X4 between the bed and the frame.That gives you about 3' of clearance to replace the fuel pump which is more than enough.
 

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The 1988 S-1O W/W pump made 40 psi.

Thanks
Randy
Yeah great idea the TBI only requires about 19-11 psi to run (13-15 spec) but that won't work on anything that is port fuel injected needing 40 plus on the earlier OBD I models and 58plus on later OBD II models.
 

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46 years of fixing the manufacturing genius at the BIG 3 factories. You're preaching to the choir, it ain't gonna change anytime soon!!
 

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Everyone does it. My Toya even has the FILTER in the tank. Never changed either at 131K.

I'd never buy another GM product , for the record. I cant stand their arrogance. But the in tank pump is a SAE standard.

I cut the panel out of the trunk floor of a 80's Tbrid to replace the pump. F-word.
 
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one more reason I love older mech fuel pumps easy to change and cheap.
My original Gm pump, 02 1500 lasted 120k. I have tried them all , Delphi Bosch Carter etc wether you drive them or not they last a handful orf years thats it. 20-40 per pump if Im lucky. OEM quality is the best

Problem is GMs replacement Delco stuff seems to be crap. Bought all new headlights, 1 month 2 are burned out.
Brand new AC blower motor...3rd time I turned it on it made the same noise the original did (lasted 19 yrs).
Paid dealer prices thinking im going to get good quality that is a joke! May as well bought cheap Ebay garbage
Still have the original 19 yr old headlights.
I get asked why would i want to sell and by an old Camino...thats why. BS.
 

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Sons 93 GMC suburban 454. Pump went bad truck has 200k miles. Had to cut out a access panel. Was not to difficult, put back with strips flat bar steel. Now just pull back carpet & 4 screws. Carry a spare fuel pump for road trips. Just in case.
 

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