[bryce_gates]

I have a '72 Chevelle with a 350cid engine. It's been sitting for 6 years with new oil and an additive that was supposed to help the oil climb the walls and keep things lubed up. I also have been starting it and moving it forward and back through the gears a couple of times a month. The oil is still clean, but I've been told that it breaks down over time and needs to be changed out.

I'm going to do an oil change and will be driving it quite a bit this summer. I'm wondering what suggestions you guys might have for additives for the engine, tranny, and for the fuel tank. I'm just thinking it might need something ran through it since it's been sitting so long. I burned what old fuel was left and put a new tank of the high octane stuff in. I'm thinking I might need something to clean out the tank, carb, fuel lines, etc. Changing the fuel filter might be a good idea as well.

If anyone has ideas or experience with additives and storing your car, I would appreciate anything you could post as far as some options before I change the oil, etc. I'd like to know what really works and not just what the bottle says, or the guy on the other side of the counter.

Thanks!

Bryce
SLC, UT

 

[bryce_gates]

Any ideas anyone?

 

[Jerry70]

I'd definitely change the oil as over time it collects moisture and can become acidic from combustion byproducts. If you aren't having any problems with the fuel system I wouldn't worry about it. The main problem with storing a car is the gas turning to goo in the small passages of the carb. By running it occasionally the gas didn't sit in one place long enough to do any damage and the detergents in the gas also helped keep things from gumming up. Use a quality gas for it's detergents and you shouldn't need any additives unless it sits much longer than it has been.

 

[bryce_gates]

Thanks Jerry. I'm running the higher octane fuel from the three offered at the pump. Is this what you mean by higher quality gas, or do you mean a certain brand/type/station like Chevron vs. another station?

Also, do you feel the same way about additives in the oil as far as not needing to add anything, just change it? I have always used Castrol GTX 10W-40. Not sure if this is the best oil out there vs. another, but I have heard that it's important to stick with the same brand and type of oil for the life of the engine. Not sure if this is true, but that's why I've always gone this route anyway. I'm more interested in just knowing what oil additives might be good to put in when I change my oil here soon since it's been sitting so long. Any recommendations would be great. Thanks.

 

[Jerry70]

Typically, the higher octane gas (i.e., more expensive) usually has more additives for cleaning. Name brands such as Chevron and Shell almost always have the additives while the non-brand name ones may or may not. Typically, the gas itself is the same but the cheaper fuels don't get the same additives, if any.
If it's a flat tappet cam you have to be careful to get enough zddp. Because modern roller cam engines don't need as much (and because it can cause problems with newer converters), most modern oils don't have enough zddp for flat tappet cams. I use the Chevron Delo for that reason but there are some other oils that are ok too. Imo, all the other additives needed should already be in a quality oil. There's a lot more info on the subject at the top of the performance section in the stickies by Scott Wheaton.

 

[Buzzbomb]

I have a '72 Chevelle with a 350cid engine. It's been sitting for 6 years with new oil and an additive that was supposed to help the oil climb the walls and keep things lubed up. I also have been starting it and moving it forward and back through the gears a couple of times a month. The oil is still clean, but I've been told that it breaks down over time and needs to be changed out.

I'm going to do an oil change and will be driving it quite a bit this summer. I'm wondering what suggestions you guys might have for additives for the engine, tranny, and for the fuel tank. I'm just thinking it might need something ran through it since it's been sitting so long. I burned what old fuel was left and put a new tank of the high octane stuff in. I'm thinking I might need something to clean out the tank, carb, fuel lines, etc. Changing the fuel filter might be a good idea as well.

If anyone has ideas or experience with additives and storing your car, I would appreciate anything you could post as far as some options before I change the oil, etc. I'd like to know what really works and not just what the bottle says, or the guy on the other side of the counter.

Thanks!

Bryce
SLC, UT

You need to change the oil..It's not because it's "old", but because you stated that you basically started the car and let it idle for a few minutes once in a while. Believe it or not, this can do more harm than good and you're better off letting it sit. The reason is that you aren't getting the engine hot enough to burn off the condensation which of course can cause problems. However, SLC is NOT a humid environment, so you probably are ok. So, yes, change the oil. You might want to do some reading here at TC about oils. I was a faithful user of Castrol 10W40 in my 350, but I now run Chevron Delo 15W40 (WalMart) in it due to the fact that the additive package in the Castrol isn't really backwards compatible for older engines with hydraulic camshafts. The Delo has a better group of additives IN the oil itself. No need for a bottle of something else unless something has changed with the Delo as of late. There are stickies on this forum about that..

If it were me, and depending on what carb you are running, I wouldn't worry about the fuel lines/tank. I'd keep adding new gas until the old gas is burned off. No big deal there and not worth the trouble of formally cleaning the gas tank. Change the fuel filter and that should be fine. If you wanted to, you could fill it up and add a can of Seafoam to the gas tank. It wouldn't hurt anything..

 

[bryce_gates]

Thanks guys. This gives me a lot to think about and I'll check out the performance forum for additional info. I appreciate you taking the time to help.

Buzzbomb, do you think it's ok and worth it to switch to the Delo after running the Castrol GTX from day one of building this engine? I just heard you should stick with the same, but maybe that's a myth. The Delo sounds like it might be a better pick if there aren't any risks in switching. I wouldn't think so, but that's just what I've heard so I haven't looked into anything else. Thanks.

 

[Buzzbomb]

Thanks guys. This gives me a lot to think about and I'll check out the performance forum for additional info. I appreciate you taking the time to help.

Buzzbomb, do you think it's ok and worth it to switch to the Delo after running the Castrol GTX from day one of building this engine? I just heard you should stick with the same, but maybe that's a myth. The Delo sounds like it might be a better pick if there aren't any risks in switching. I wouldn't think so, but that's just what I've heard so I haven't looked into anything else. Thanks.

If it was 15 years ago, I'd say stick with GTX. Heck, I'd have stuck with GTX if it hadn't been stripped of the stuff that makes flat tappet cams happy. I used it in my car for years, and still use it in my truck. However, at this point in time it is not a good oil for cars with hydraulic camshafts, which I am assuming you have in your car since you haven't stated otherwise. The "risk" you take in NOT switching oils is far greater when you wind up running an oil that does not have the proper additives to keep your camshaft protected. GTX is a great oil, but is NOT an oil that is recommended for cars with old school camshaft technology. Delo is a quality oil, and worthy replacement for GTX. It's still basically in the ballpark as a 10W40 instead of it being 20W50. I went from Castrol GTX, to Shell Rotella, and I am now running Delo 15W40 w/a Napa Gold filter. It's cheaper and easier to change oil brands than it is to swap out a cam because of a wiped lobe

 

[bryce_gates]

Thanks for the info! This makes a lot of sense and I'm glad I heard it from someone who has made the switch. At least now I know what I'm doing this weekend.

 

[JJ'65]

Additives and storing a car? Much to do about very little. Add fuel stabilizer per directions to a full tank of (ethanol-free if you can get it) fresh gas. Fresh engine oil. Use fogging oil (obtainable at NAPA, marine supply stores, etc.) in the engine per directions. Store the car in a place that has low humidity and relatively constant temperature. Most cylinder wall wear occurs during start-up and warm-up. Unless you're prepared to drive it for a while after its fully warmed-up, better to just leave it alone. Or you could drain the fuel system completely, pull the engine and pickle it and wrap in an air-tight covering. I've have never in 50 years of being a person with interest in cars, airplanes, motorcycles, etc. encountered a bonafide "expert" saying anything positive about the various snake-oils that are sold to "stabilize" "modify" or otherwise change the make-up of quality lubricants. The aforementioned are only my humble personal opinions and $0.02...

 

[bryce_gates]

Thanks JJ... are you saying that if I'm not going to be driving it after starting it up and warming it up, to not even bother starting it and idling it for awhile? Basically drive it or don't start it up at all? Just wanted to clarify what you mean. Thanks.

 

[mrpaticular]

My stored vehicles do not get started unless I can let them run 30 minutes. Otherwise I put some oil down the carb and turn the engine over with a breaker bar to change the location of parts to help with stress and sticking rings. About the oil. Brad Pen, look it up for a location that sells it, one of the best oils for flat tappet cams. Valvoline VR-1, also good for flat tappet, is what I use now and is on sale now at Auto Zone for $2.00 off per quart. This oil goes fast when it is on sale so if you want it you better get it this week.

 

[JJ'65]

My stored vehicles do not get started unless I can let them run 30 minutes. Otherwise I put some oil down the carb and turn the engine over with a breaker bar to change the location of parts to help with stress and sticking rings. About the oil. Brad Pen, look it up for a location that sells it, one of the best oils for flat tappet cams. Valvoline VR-1, also good for flat tappet, is what I use now and is on sale now at Auto Zone for $2.00 off per quart. This oil goes fast when it is on sale so if you want it you better get it this week.

"Yep"; what he said...

 

[bryce_gates]

Good news! Thanks guys!