[Rich66]

Did a search on adjusting the front disk wheel bearing...........seems like quite a few different opinions but mostly the same.........most are to torque to 12 ft pounds or use channel lock to set the bearings in, then finger tighten........then back off a notch to set the cotter pin.

What i found out on my deal is i can do all of the above, but i found out i can get the cotter pin inserted by grabbing the nut with my hand and turning it a hair more tighter...........seems everything is spinning ok.

With this setting i found i could still move the slotted washer a hair in either direction behind the castle nut.............so im assuming this is zero preload.

Any issues you guys see using this method.

Thanks

Rich

 

[oldcutlass]

I prefer a tiny bit of preload on my bearings. I pack them, snug the nut, and then spin the wheel a few times. Then I adjust the nut until there is no radial play by grabbing the tire at the 6 and 12 o'clock position. Once there is no play I tighten the nut to the next cotter pin position.

 

[hydro462]

Adjustment, While having a helper spin the wheel, tighten the nut with a torque wrench set at 70 ft.lbs. . Then back off just enough to get it loose with the bearings holding everything in.

 

[Droptop72]

I have always preferred a little too loose over a little too tight. For forty years, I have used a channel locks to snug the nut and seat the bearings as I spun the drum or rotor, and then backed it off. I then tighten as far as I can go with thumb and two fingers and then back off to the first notch that lines up. Never had one single issue or complaint.

 

[Rich66]

Hey thanks guys, looks like to spin the tire im gonna have to take the center cap off the cragers to do the spin the tire deal........as for now im just moving the rotor back and forth untill its snug while spinning it. I thought the slotted washer was supposed to move a little while the castle nut was hand tight, i can still move it with effort when i tighten the nut by hand and moving it to the cotter pin hole, even if i back off the nut to the cotter pin hole the washer still moves, just easier. When done i can still loosen the castle nut by hand, takes some effort but i can do it by hand.

One last question, had to take the rotor off a few times due to a few other issues , i already torqued the bearings down , do i clean the front bearing up , then repack it again, and start all over, or can i just put a little more grease around the bearing and call it a day.

Thanks

Rich

 

[Rich66]

Droptop 72........caught your post while slow typing mine.........thats pretty much the way ive been doing it ..........i get confused on all this backing it off some, im able to tighten with my fingers and then still using my hand to move it a hair to the next hole.

I have to paint some spots on my lower control arms , im gonna try this again and see what i got.............seems im close either way.

Rich

 

[1971-Chevelle]

I have been told that on these cars you back the nut off a little bit to allow for thermal expansion of the bearing. I've never had a problem doing it that way. I have very little movement of the tire (top and bottom) after installing things this way.

 

[Rich66]

Hey Hydro, just wondering where you got that 70lb torque #........about all ive seen on the web is 12ish ft lbs............messed around with it today, got it finger tight then backed off about half a flat..............just cant seem to get this straight in my head. lol.......all i have to do is just touch the nut and it loosens up.......gonna keep it there for a few miles and see whats happening after that.

Taking the car for another alignment this tue...........i grinded down my umi lower arms so they wouldnt hit the rotor...........hopefully it works this time.

Once again, appreciate the help

Rich