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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, just got this brace in the mail and thought I'd share it in case anyone else is interested. The gist of it is that a while back I asked a guy on pro-touring to whip something up to go with a rear shock tower that he had made a while back. I don't have it installed yet but here it is so you get the idea.





 

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That's cool. I swear I saw a company that makes a front brace like that. Can't remember who though. Should stiffen things up nicely. Sort of like viagra ha ha ha
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, SC and C makes something similar, I'd think given the options for layout they'll all be rather similar in form and function though. I was going to get the SCC one, but from posts and pics on various forums it (might) hang low but this one is supposed to be just low enough to clear my Hellwig front bar, which it does.. I don't have the other bar to compare it to though.
The second smaller cross bar was something I asked for and I think costs extra, but still even without it I'd think it would be plenty solid.
Fortunately I'm still too young for viagra. For now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Seems unnecessary unless your going rock crawling.
Perhaps, but 90% of what goes on in these forums is unnecessary. Your car's frame must be better than my car's frame if you are happy with it stock.
 

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90% of what goes on in these forums is unnecessary.
:thumbsup:

That does not mean it should not be done, that is what hot rodding is about, correct?
 

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What is the purpose of a front frame brace, if I might ask?
To make you think you need one so they can make money off you. :wink2:
 
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What is the purpose of a front frame brace, if I might ask?
to tie the front of the car together better... they put similar braces on the Monte Carlo SS in the 80's. i put a set of them from a Monte SS that i was junking out on my 84 Regal T Type and it made a noticeable difference in the way the car felt just driving down the road and eliminated a weird squeak/rattle that had always been in the dash. those were just the bars that go up from the crossmember to the frame horns, they also put a cross brace that tied the front frame horns together at the bumper mounts that they only put on some Grand Prix models, but i haven't stumbled across one of those yet.

another area that can stiffen these cars up is the rear frame horns: just tying them together with a simple bar can tighten the car up a bit. a bolt on hitch works for this..
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To make you think you need one so they can make money off you. :wink2:
I don't make anything off this, but it has to be at least as useful as boxed rear control arms. The money involved is largely irrelevant, I've paid more for less.

:thumbsup:

That does not mean it should not be done, that is what hot rodding is about, correct?
No argument here, nothing would ever get done if people were dissuaded by criticisms of randos on forums.
In this case, if the car has no top then the only choice is to stiffen up the bottom. It's not for everyone, but for those that are interested this is just another option to consider.
 

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We don't currently make a front reinforcement brace for an A-Body yet so I don't per say have a "dog in this fight" lol, but we made a prototype some time ago for our 79 Monte Carlo that worked very well. We released in for sale this year and have had great feedback from customers who have purchased it looking to stiffen the front frame horns and front crossmember area on their cars.

Craig
 

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I wouldn't have thought a frame brace on a full frame car would help that much compared to a unibody car. :surprise:
 

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to tie the front of the car together better... they put similar braces on the Monte Carlo SS in the 80's. i put a set of them from a Monte SS that i was junking out on my 84 Regal T Type and it made a noticeable difference in the way the car felt just driving down the road and eliminated a weird squeak/rattle that had always been in the dash. those were just the bars that go up from the crossmember to the frame horns, they also put a cross brace that tied the front frame horns together at the bumper mounts that they only put on some Grand Prix models, but i haven't stumbled across one of those yet.

another area that can stiffen these cars up is the rear frame horns: just tying them together with a simple bar can tighten the car up a bit. a bolt on hitch works for this..
Thanks Derrick. :thumbsup:
 

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The horns on the front of these vehicles are know to twist. Moog has made a part (offfset pivot shaft) just for this reason. I am not endorsing the brace, but can understand why it might be needed in hard applications.
 

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SC and C has had these heavy duty chassis braces available for while now. Obviously these are aimed at the pro touring element of this hobby and for that purpose they are quite useful.


`64-`67 GM A Body Chevelle, GS, 442
SC&C Heavy Duty Chassis Brace

GM didn't dot all their I's and cross all their T's when they built the A body chassis (Chevelle, GS, 442, Etc.). The front frame horns were left without a crossmember and the bumper can't do the job. The result is a frame that deflects under heavy loads and a steering box that's hanging out there imparting all it's steering load on just one frame rail. SC&C's heavy duty tubular chassis brace fixes that factory oversight. It bolts under the chassis with large 1.25" diameter, 120" wall 1026 steel tubing welded into a triangulated and gusseted structure that ties the two frame rails firmly together. You'll notice an instant improvement in steering response, chassis stiffness, handling, and a welcome reduction in squeaks and rattles. Includes mounting hardware and instructions.

Price: $189.90
 

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The horns on the front of these vehicles are know to twist. Moog has made a part (offfset pivot shaft) just for this reason. I am not endorsing the brace, but can understand why it might be needed in hard applications.
Hard cornering is WHAT this bar is made for.

Im the person who made these bars for stu.
The rear bar has the forks waterjet cut and mig welded to 1.125 or 1.250 dom steel tube.
The front is mandrel bent 1.250 dom welded to 3/16 shock tabs.
For the record im not pushing these on anybody and i dont make a bunch of money on these.
I make them to help fellow pro touring chevelle owners out by saving them money on these compared to the other co. Making them.
The vendors that sell these make good braces and all,im do them at home so i can afford to sell them at a lower cost.stu asked,and i made them.

I use the same usa metal,and use a hossfeld bender(anerican made) and an old but hot welding miller 35 220volt mig welder.

The guys who say why a full frame car needs bracing.

Watch the video online where a g-body frame(same design as a velle)flexes on jack stands.

Our frames front and rear assemblys are pretty beefy but flex because of lack of triangulation.

The chevelle frame is really a box with sides,front and nack but no top and bottom.
 

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Hard cornering is WHAT this bar is made for.

Im the person who made these bars for stu.
The rear bar has the forks waterjet cut and mig welded to 1.125 or 1.250 dom steel tube.
The front is mandrel bent 1.250 dom welded to 3/16 shock tabs.
For the record im not pushing these on anybody and i dont make a bunch of money on these.
I make them to help fellow pro touring chevelle owners out by saving them money on these compared to the other co. Making them.
The vendors that sell these make good braces and all,im do them at home so i can afford to sell them at a lower cost.stu asked,and i made them.

I use the same usa metal,and use a hossfeld bender(anerican made) and an old but hot welding miller 35 220volt mig welder.

The guys who say why a full frame car needs bracing.

Watch the video online where a g-body frame(same design as a velle)flexes on jack stands.

Our frames front and rear assemblys are pretty beefy but flex because of lack of triangulation.

The chevelle frame is really a box with sides,front and nack but no top and bottom.
Great to hear someone else also works in their basement. I do it to support my racing addiction.

This is what I was working on today (see below). They are not done yet but should be ready tomorrow evening.

As I said before I can see the need for them, I have had no experience with them so I could not endorse them.

They look and sound well built.

 

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^^ nice! I like seeing guys doing side deals to support some of there hobby habits.

No basement thou.
my bender thats mounted in the concrete outside next to my garage sits in the blazing corona heat(i live inland ca.)

The day i bent and welded stu's bar and brace it was 102° :' -(
 
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