[69nomad350]

I'm finishing up some electrical and interior now and thinking about brakes next.

currently drums all around and all fresh in the rear. manual dual res master and I have a line kit for front discs with proportioning valve in stock location. I want to upgrade my brakes and suspension but probably only will have time and money for brakes this winter. would it make sense just to do it all at once or getting the brakes on sooner wouldn't hurt?

Best option I'm thinking is willwood 4piston discs that bolt onto stock drum spindles.

1969 CHEVROLET CHEVELLE Wilwood Disc Brakes 140-15272 Wilwood Classic Series Dynalite Front Brake Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Wilwood Classic Series Dynalite Front Brake Kits with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Disc Brake Kits at Summit Racing.

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other option is right stuff or Leeds ...( but why replace spindles if I don't need to?)

after that want to do UMI 1.5 with tall ball joints to lower 1.5 inches or so ( which means I should get the 1 inch lowering springs right?)

Handling Kits - UMI Performance Inc.

UMI Performance is the industry leader in muscle car suspension. We build Race Proven Suspension Systems for autocross, road race, Pro-Touring, drag race and street applications.

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might hire someone for that install since I'm an amateur which is why I'm asking for help here. does that all make sense to do brakes first on stock spindle then springs shocks and ball joints later down the road done by someone else?

 

[hydro462]

Use the factory disc/drum parts. They make aluminum rear drums for these cars now. You'll need an adjustable proportion valve (rear), Metering valve (front).
Use Porterfield pads and shoes. Use there street performance pads and shoes...

:: #1 Race Specialist in The World :: � (porterfield-brakes.com)

 

[69nomad350]

factory discs on the front? I was planning on doing the hold off valve like factory off the stock proportioning valve with the new stainless brake lines. the rear drums have just been redone with cast drums. this is just a street cruiser. still unclear what discs are recommended for the front.

and still curious if it is worth it for me to do the brakes myself and then think about suspension or if I should just do it all at once

1969 GM A- & F-Body Front Disc Brake Hold-Off Valve

1969 GM A- & F-Body Front Disc Brake Hold-Off Valve

www.inlinetube.com

 

[Monkey]

I would do all the front at the same time, this way you are only touching it once and less labor is always a good thing.

Another brake option is below.

1969 Chevrolet Chevelle

With over 30 years providing quality disc brake conversion kits and brake accessories, Master Power Brakes is the leading source for all of your braking needs when working on your 1969 Chevrolet Chevelle.

www.mpbrakes.com

That being said, depending on your intend use and wheel size, the stock brakes will be just fine for 90% of the time. Good napa premium disc and pads and plenty of vacuum (or for a cleaner look go manual brakes) and you will be fine.

And the Baer and MPB use a "stock pad" like a modern camaro pad for memory.

I run the Baer kit, but I also run 18x9 front wheel.

 

[69nomad350]

planning on sticking to manual and my 15" for now eventually 17 but no big brakes. I'll check out that option thanks. I'll try to figure out how to get it all done at once. I just want to do some of the work myself but have no idea what I'm doing with suspension. I'm an amateur and learning as i go. I know for a fact I don't have the ballbjoint press and I don't know how to safely take off a spring

 

[billdini]

We have two cars, my 68 L79 with factory fixed caliper 4 piston disc and the wife's 71 with the floating single piston disc setup. There is no comparison with the stopping power between the two. So little braking is provided by the rear wheels so I would just install nice shoes unless you are gonna track it. I had aluminum drums on the front of my GS 455 but that was the front and not sure how much they would help on the rears.

 

[69nomad350]

could you link the parts I would need for he factory 4 piston setup? I would need stock disc spindles right?

the reason I was looking at the willwood is because they bolt onto stock drum spindles and are 4 piston

 

[billdini]

could you link the parts I would need for he factory 4 piston setup? I would need stock disc spindles right?

the reason I was looking at the willwood is because they bolt onto stock drum spindles and are 4 piston

Since factory 4 piston were only available in 67 and 68 GM A bodies I am not sure I would do the cost of that system over what you were thinking of buying. However you will need new brackets, rotors, calipers, pads, pad pins, backing plates and then you would need a Master Cylinder for the large piston calipers and I would recommend a 11 inch booster if you have room. The factory uses a MC mounted delay valve and a frame mounted distribution valve. New lines is a must as well. This is some of the parts (most) but I left out the caliper and master cylinder because they will vary but make sure both the master cylinder and caliper are large bore and not the smaller Camaro/Corvette ones.

1968 Chevelle 4 Piston Caliper Inlet Line Brackets
1968 Chevelle Flex Hose Brackets at Frame 4 Piston

1967-1968 Chevelle Brake Caliper Bolt, 4 Piston Calipers

1967-1968 Chevelle Brake Caliper Bolt, 4 Piston Calipers

www.ss396.com

1967-1972 Chevelle Front Two Piece Brake Rotor

1967-1972 Chevelle Front Two Piece Brake Rotor

www.ss396.com

Rotor, 4 Piston, 1967-68 A-Body @ OPGI.com

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Search Results for 68 chevelle disc brake All Vehicles @ OPGI.com

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Backing Plates, Disc Brake, 1967-68 A-Body @ OPGI.com

These are identical match-ups to the original in fit with all of the proper tooling hit marks. Cadmium-plated to take the wear and tear. Now in stock for prompt delivery.

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1967-68 GM Cars 4 Piston Front Brake Caliper Mounting Brackets Pair | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1967-68 GM Cars 4 Piston Front Brake Caliper Mounting Brackets Pair at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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[69nomad350]

yeah I'm not trying to go date correct or anything an just looking for a kit that I could install myself with all the parts I need no fab. I have the new lines from inline tube. I have a dual res master cylinder and was planning on keeping that manual and upgrading if it really sucks

 

[billdini]

yeah I'm not trying to go date correct or anything an just looking for a kit that I could install myself with all the parts I need no fab. I have the new lines from inline tube. I have a dual res master cylinder and was planning on keeping that manual and upgrading if it really sucks

Disc brakes are much harder of a push then a drum setup and why you see most disc brakes with boosters. Personally for after market I like Brembo's but not sure if they have a kit since you see them on newer cars.

 

[69nomad350]

yeah I don't mind it being firmer. the MC was already replaced so I'm gonna try that out before I spend more

 

[billdini]

I will be honest I never just added a new booster to a drum or disc system. Mine were one or the other but from the factory however you just need to change the alternate position on the brake lever plus remove the pedal return spring. They will usually come with either the flushed or recessed master cylinder piston and come with two different rods. You just need to make sure that the MC piston can return to the full back position within the casting or you can overheat your fluid and cause a lockout. Really pretty simple change. Here is a kit for both. Just make sure you use the alternate position where the booster rod connects to the brake/pedal arm and to remove the spring. I am sure you can find it cheaper but I like the products that Inlinetube sells

1967-70 Chevrolet Fullsize Car Power Drum or Power Disc Universal 11

1967-70 Chevrolet Fullsize Car Power Drum or Power Disc Universal 11" Brake Booster

www.inlinetube.com

 

[69nomad350]

I like inline tubes also I may think about adding the booster once the brakes are on. Looks like I'm going to try to do suspension and brakes all at once so I might just pay someone to get this done as I'll need an alignment anyway after the suspension. thanks for the tips.

 

[Alwhite00]

We have two cars, my 68 L79 with factory fixed caliper 4 piston disc and the wife's 71 with the floating single piston disc setup. There is no comparison with the stopping power between the two.

So, what one do you prefer? You left me hanging here.

 

[69nomad350]

So, what one do you prefer? You left me hanging here.

I thought the same thing and am assuming the 4 piston?

 

[billdini]

So, what one do you prefer? You left me hanging here.

Al, I prefer the brakes in the Chevelle. However I owned many 69 SS x3, 73 SS, 81, Z28's, 70 x2, 74x2, 79, 82, 94, 2001 so I am a Camaro lover for sure. However Murphy is one special car so if one goes it will be the current 71 SS Camaro. Not sure you were talking about the cars or the brakes.

 

[Alwhite00]

Al, I prefer the brakes in the Chevelle. However I owned many 69 SS x3, 73 SS, Z28's, 70 x2, 74x2, 79, 82, 93, 2001 so I am a Camaro lover for sure. However Murphy is one special car so if one goes it will be the current 71 SS Camaro.

I'm still lost. You said a 68 L79 and the wife's 71. I assumed both are chevelles but maybe not. How about this, do you prefer the 4 piston or the single piston?

 

[billdini]

I'm still lost. You said a 68 L79 and the wife's 71. I assumed both are chevelles but maybe not. How about this, do you prefer the 4 piston or the single piston?

IMO there is no comparison between the 68 Chevelle with a fixed 4 piston disc caliper versing the 71 Camaro SS with a floating single piston calipers. The even and greater clamping power is superior to a single piston floating caliper. From a pure braking feel I would also say the Chevelle stops as well as my past 2014 Shelby Gt500 with Brembo 6 piston disc and my current 2015 GT and Edge ST. Now the Shelby was all wheel disc with 15 inch front rotors so on the track there would be no comparison with a 11 inch rotor on our Chevelles. Fade would kill our older disc systems compared to current large aluminum calipers with multi piston brakes in use today. But for street use my factory 4 piston brakes on my Chevelle rank among the best IMO even with drums on the rear.

 

[billdini]

I like inline tubes also I may think about adding the booster once the brakes are on. Looks like I'm going to try to do suspension and brakes all at once so I might just pay someone to get this done as I'll need an alignment anyway after the suspension. thanks for the tips.

Just see if the brake lines off the MC are the same with or without a booster. I suspect not. The lines are cheap but bleeding the lines can be a PITA

 

[69nomad350]

is there a way to check if my control arm bushings are still good? or should I just assume they're bad and swap them if I want to keep the car safe and it has only been an "ice cream cruiser" before I bought it.

I got the disc brake kit from willwood that mounts to stock drum spindles so I'm wondering if I should just so that first and then worry about suspension later.
option 2 is replace the control arms and shocks while I'm in there. My biggest concern with that is messing with springs as I've never done it before. Opinions, or anyone near Chicago want to help on a fun project?