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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about ready to do something with my frame. All parts are almost completely off. I'm undecided on what to do: Galvanize or Sandblast???:confused:

I guess what I'm asking is for some opinions/experiences on the pros and cons. What is the cost differences in your area? ETC..

I'm leaning towards Galvanizing. That process gets into all the nooks and crannies. As opposed to blowing sand out of the darn frame for weeks. Was wondering though: After galvanizing, is the frame smooth or does it have kinda roughness to it like a galvanized bolt? Does it require any sanding after the process?

Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks:beers:

Bob
 

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Went thru this in the past week with the '66 wagon frame.
I choose to blast and paint...quicker turn time for me.
I have had frames powdercoated before too but that can take a while.
 

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With galvanizing you don'y have to clean anything. You can normally get all front and rear suspension parts thrown in for no extra price. Its ll priced by weight and the minimum is usually alot more than the frame weighs. As far as time is concerned, They told me I could drop mine off in the morning and pick it up the next day, as ong as I called in advance and told them Iwas coming


I had my frame galvanized in July, unloaded it beside the shop and it has been sitting on the ground ever since. Rain, sun, humidity, probably even guard dog pee. I gave it a good lookin at this weekend and there isn't a spot of rust on it. It looks the same as it did when I picked it up. I do believe that was the best thing I could have done for my car.

Total Cost: About $250.00

North American Galvanizing, Nashville, Tennessee
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Where I live they have a minimun of $250.00 or 72 cents per pound (whichever is greater) I'm guessing I'll fall into the $250.00 catagory. or close to it. Anyone know how much a 72 frame weighs? I'm guessing around 250 to 300 lbs.

Is this galvanizing have a smooth finish when complete?
 

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I know two guys could (did) easily carry my '66 wagon frame around. I'd guess it weighs somewhere in the 175 lb range.
 

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I had my 69 frame done and I would do it again on the next car also.:thumbsup:
I'm having it done to my convertible's frame. There is a place about 15 minutes from me that does it :thumbsup:
 

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I'm leaning towards Galvanizing. That process gets into all the nooks and crannies. As opposed to blowing sand out of the darn frame for weeks. Was wondering though: After galvanizing, is the frame smooth or does it have kinda roughness to it like a galvanized bolt? Does it require any sanding after the process?

Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks:beers:

Bob
It will have the same texture as a galvanized highway sign post. It's the HDG (hot dipped galvanizing) process. If you are doing a concours resto, this is not the process you want to use. No factory frame was galvanized. However, if you want the ultimate removal of rust (it's done chemically in an acid bath) and total protection INSIDE the frame and out, this is the right solution. You may want to smooth a spot or two with a file where drips hardened (if that stuff bothers you). The galvanizing alloy is relatively soft and smoothes easily. You will also want to run a tap into the 5 or 6 holes that are threaded in the frame. May need to use a rat tail file in the "through holes" for e-brake cables, steering box mounting holes, etc. I used a drill to ream the fuel and brake line clip holes. Other than that, it's as protected as it can get when you pick it up from the galvanizers. The paint you put on it is purely cosmetic, for looks. Some folks have even then had their's powdercoated. That also is only for looks as the galvanizing completely encapsulates the steel frame. And, it's self healing if scratched.

Again, galvanizing may not be for everyone depending on preferences etc. But nothing else comes close for de-rusting, protection and (in most cases) price.

JMHO,
 

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Although I've never had a frame galvanized, I'm starting to like the idea.

The big thing I'm wondering about is this: Most frames are structurally sound, but have a fair amount of surface rust and pitting.

If I'm doing a frame, I want all the rust pitting filled with either plastic body filler, of filler primer, then sanded and painted. This is how any reputable resto shop would want the frame to be finished.

The question: Can plastic/body filler be applied over the galvanizing, or can the frame/galvanizing be coated with something first, then apply the filler or filler primer? The filler also, would need to be sanded smooth. I wouldn't think the galvanizing itself should be sanded.

If I'm going to the trouble to do a frame off, the last thing I want to see is painted rust pitting.
 

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Although I've never had a frame galvanized, I'm starting to like the idea.

The big thing I'm wondering about is this: Most frames are structurally sound, but have a fair amount of surface rust and pitting.

If I'm doing a frame, I want all the rust pitting filled with either plastic body filler, of filler primer, then sanded and painted. This is how any reputable resto shop would want the frame to be finished.

The question: Can plastic/body filler be applied over the galvanizing, or can the frame/galvanizing be coated with something first, then apply the filler or filler primer? The filler also, would need to be sanded smooth. I wouldn't think the galvanizing itself should be sanded.

If I'm going to the trouble to do a frame off, the last thing I want to see is painted rust pitting.
Bill, Epoxy primer can be used on a properly prepped HDG surface. And you can do any filler right over the epoxy.. :hurray:

Some companies may require you to have the frame sandblasted, the one down here, does. So it will be $450ish for me ($300 for the Galv, $150ish for sandblast), if I can not find anyone to do it with..

-Todd

EDIT: I forgot to say that the HDG will probably smooth the majority of the pits out.. :yes:
 
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