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I have dart iron eagles with 3 accessory bolt holes drilled in each head, just like in the pic. It'll definitely fit those. A friend with a 77 or 78 monte had that bracket on his 350 w/ stock heads, thats how I found out about it.

I will post pics once I have received & installed the bracket.
 

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There is a much easier and way cheaper way to do this....You use a stud (header bolt thread pitch- MUCH like the water outlet stud for the alternator bracket on a small block..Could be Water pump stud too) as the front header bolt, put one loose nut directly behind the bracket, one nut in front of the bracket. Tighten those two nuts up to lock them in place as an "interfererence" type fit, and thats it. Works great on my 350 w/ power steering!
 

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For long water pump set ups, you can even grab a PS bracket from an I6 chevy (long and skinny with a long slot) and attach it to the outer bolt hole on a small block chevy head. That's it. The other side goes to the pump. The slot even adds a adjustability if you need it for whatever reason.

Both my Chevelle and my brother's Nova are set up this way. The Chevelle has been that way for almost 4 years with no problems.
 

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On my short water pump, driver's side alternator set up here's what I did. I have the chrome after market lower alternator bracket for the alternator, the kind that fits around the header tube. I attached the factory upper power steering to the alternator bracket, in the factory fashion. This positions the power steering bracket too high by about 1 inch for the stud on the back of the PS pump and a little bit too far back.

I took a scrap of steel and made a flat bracket that mounts vertically on the back of the pump and sticks up beyond the top of the pump to reach up to the new position of the PS bracket. The shape of the new bracket is a radius that follows the curve of the pump body. The radius or curved shape of this bracket avoids the PS hose fittings. The bracket has a hole at the position for the bottom bolt and another hole at the top the lines up with the stud at the top of the pump (the one intended to reach the adjustment slot of the PS bracket). Connecting to both the bottom and top of the back side of the pump gives the leverage/support to adjust belt tension. The part the sticks up has a hole at the top of it, and then a bolt passes through this hole and also through the adjustment slot of the PS bracket.

Easily doable in an afternoon with a hacksaw, grinder and electric drill. Since the bracket is flat, there is no welding, bending or torch work.
 

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If I have the stock brackets available, and don't have to put something together, the easiest way of all to do it is use a small piece of sturdy tubing, cut it to length, and use the stock manifold bolt. Works great.
 
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