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You might need to consider some internal bracing, especially if the floor and the rockers are all removed at the same time.

And hey, welcome to the neighborhood.

Rick
 

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Do it on the frame. To be honest, it would have been easier to do a floor with rockers as opposed to doing it separate. Make sure the A pillar braces and front cowl shoulders are good. If not, replace those as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Do it on the frame. To be honest, it would have been easier to do a floor with rockers as opposed to doing it separate. Make sure the A pillar braces and front cowl shoulders are good. If not, replace those as well.
I dontsee how i could do onthe frame with everything i have seen and researched? I have not seen a floor pan with outer rockers already attached? The pillar braces and front cowl shoulders are good. I will do more reasearch.
Thanks!
 

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I have a one piece with the inner rockers attached and plan on doing off the frame.

Thanks!
Big mistake doing it off the frame. I do this type of work for a living and am warning you it is not a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Big mistake doing it off the frame. I do this type of work for a living and am warning you it is not a good idea.
Ok maybe im missing something? Its a 67 chevelle full frame. Every video I have seen they do it frame off with body braced. I saw one guy do it with frame on and it looked like a train wreck trying to get that one piece in from top. I will take your advice and think? I appreciate it!
 

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My El Camino floor got done in two long pieces front to back. Way easier.

Rick

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BlueSs454,
How could you install a full floor w/rockers on frame? Assuming I have constructed internal bracing as mentioned above.
I am asking for your expert advice. I have a 72. I also have a full floor with rockers waiting for install. I was considering chopping the rockers off to ease installation. Mine are good but have rotted cowl shoulders and firewall. The spot welds to the pillars look like a PITA. I build boats and this is my first major automotive project.
I have just installed a full trunk and getting ready to move to the floor.

Respectfully,
Cheyne

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I used AMD floor pan with inner rockers on my 68. I cross braced plus welded the doors shut but I needed extra strength since it was a convertible. I also latched the convertible top, Every little bit helps. You must remove the frame to install a new complete floor but DO NOT WELD (tack only) until its back on the frame. Frame bushings must line up with the trunk and forward mounts. IMO full floor with full rockers was too much without a jig
 

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I'm at work right now but I have more pictures on my home computer of how I did my full floor with inner rockers.

To quote an older saying. I'm not an expert but I did stay at a Comfort Inn last night.

If BlueSS454 or pretty much anyone else has other suggestions I would listen to them over my suggestions or procedures.

BlueSS454's work is absolutely amazing and we are lucky to have him as a resource.

The floor I used was a Dynacorn with braces, inner rockers, and seat mounts.

Some thoughts.

Think about how you are going to weld everything back together. Spot welder? Plug weld?

How are you going to remove the floor? It’s spot welded to the trunk floor, package tray braces, under the rear side window area, rockers on top and under the car, firewall, toe boards, and cowls.

Get your holes punched for plug welds before you put the new floor in the car if you are going to plug weld.

Are you replacing the cowl or parts of the cowl on one or both sides?

This is the abbreviated version of what I did.

I replaced all the body bushings with new poly bushings and got the body aligned on the frame.

I tacked some small bolts at 4 corners of the body and dropped a plumb bob from the bolts to the garage floor and marked the floor so I could get the body back aligned to the frame.

My frame was sitting on cribbing and the wheels were blocked on the cribbing so the frame was not going to move.

Braced the body inside the cab and across the door openings. I might have over killed this a little…ok a lot.

Got the old floor out. For me I drilled all the spot welds out with a spot weld cutter or more correctly several spot weld cutters. There are a lot of spot welds so this takes a while.

Once I had the spot welds out the floor didn’t really show any signs of wanting to come out so I cut it into two pieces and then it came out pretty easy.

I did some selective replacement of the cowl areas and replaced my outer rockers.

I lifted the body up off the frame far enough to get the new floor between the body and the frame.

I temporarily attached the floor to the body with a few sheet metal screws and held it in place with a couple of small ratchet straps.

I lowered the body on the frame.

Removed my temp floor attachments.

Moved the body and floor around until I got the body bushings back in place at all locations on the floor and body.

Made sure the body center line was matched up with the center line of the frame east and west using a string line attached to the frame and marks I made on the body before I took it off the frame.

Used the small bolts and marks on the garage floor where I dropped a plumb bob to get the alignment of the body on the frame back to where it was.

Did some double checking of all the measurements. I wanted to make sure I was in the ball park with the floor alignment and the body was square with the frame.

Snugged up the body bolts.

Put some sheet metal screws in to hold the floor in place while I welded.

Welded the floor.

Obviously this took quite a while and I was checking everything at least 4 times before I called it good.

Is it perfect? Absolutely not!

Is it up to the quality of BlueSS454? Not even in the same country as the ballpark BlueSS454 is in.

That being said I’m not unhappy with the results.

I had fun figuring out how to do it then getting it done.

I've had the body off the frame several time since the floor replacement and everything seems to be good.

Got a little weld cleanup to do yet but that is minor.

Not sure this helps you any.
 

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I don't want to pretend to know what BlueSS454 is thinking but will try and fill some of the gaps that I believe exist in the conversation.

Working on the frame means- use the original undamaged frame, sitting on a reasonably level floor as a return to point once the new replacement floor has been temporarily installed in the body. Set the body with the new floor back onto the frame with new bushings and check alignments of door gaps and make adjustments prior to welding.
If your frame has collision damage, four different length coil springs etc, then these items should be addressed first before ever cutting the original floor out.
I installed a one piece floor with rockers(Dynacorn) in a 70 convertible without issue.
 

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Kstuck67 and ss454conv,
Thank you for your thorough replies. I now fully understand what bluess454 meant. You guys are an invaluable resource. Thank you!
My 72 is all original rusted out. I'm not sure it has been on the road in the last 20 years. It's a very neglected. I just recently completed the trunk. I thought it went well and was easy by the end.
This full floor and firewall is no walk in the park. I pulled the front quarters and wheel wells today. Vacuumed out all the rust dust. Installed a shop light in the roof. I'm going to buy a few sticks of 1" square tube and get to bracing.


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