Floor pan / Front floor brace welding questions

1663 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by hmott, Apr 12, 2007

My69

Discussion Starter · Apr 11, 2007

Just ordered a new left front floor pan and front floor brace this week. I've drilled out the spot welds in preparation for putting the new brace and pan in this weekend. Until I pull the brace out and get a look at the bottom of the floor pan, I don't know how much (if any) rust is in there.

Questions I have are:

1) If I do have rust, will grinding out the rust get rid of all the rust? I don't have access to sand blasting equipment so I can't go that route.

2) Could I apply Rust Block (Por15-type product) into the area between the floor plan and the brace prior to welding?

3) Should I just stick with using the weld thru primer on the bottom of floor pan I?

4) Should I put anything else down between the brace and floor pan to keep rust at bay prior to spot welding the two pieces together?

5) When welding in the new floor pan section, I am undecided if I should lap weld or butt weld the pieces together. I've never welded before so this is my first attempt at it. I am concerned about rust starting in the area that is lap welded so prefer to butt weld. If I take my time, how difficult is it to butt weld the floor pan?

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rubadub

· #5 · Apr 11, 2007

He can brush the epoxy into the cross braces, that might help him a little, a guy could even mask off the very edge of the brace, I'm going to try and pour epoxy into the the supports after there on, and roll it over on the rotisserie, anybody had a luck with that.

Seems like I read that someplace. Pouring it in.

I shouldn't butt in here, you're giving him good advice SS396boy

Rob

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rubadub

· #7 · Apr 11, 2007

What I'm thinking, any epoxy near the weld will burn off, then your dealing with some smoke while your welding.

So, after I get mine in, I will put it on the rotisserie, tape up all the holes in the support except one, pour a couple quarts of epoxy in, tape that shut, then roll the body over slowly a couple of times from each direction, then drain out whats left, and anything that leaks out the seams, just brush that out.

Sounds good on paper, but it could get ugly, anyway, I'm goin for it.

I guess if you stop and really think about it, brushing or spraying epoxy into those supports, the bottom of the supports will be okay, but the weld area won't have any epoxy left very close to it.

I can just see it right now, yeah it took me four gallons of epoxy, YEEEEAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAA!

Are we livin or what, sharp metal, grinding sparks, you gotta love it.

Rob

There might be a hidden benefit that shows up, after I start pouring the epoxy, yeah, I decided to paint my garage floors.

I'll save the ppg dp90 and buy some of the cheaper stuff to pour down the holes, where do I get that spi

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rubadub

· #9 · Apr 12, 2007

I know what you're saying Jason, and I have heard a lot of good things about SPI and there people.

This chassis is close to three years old, and it still looks exactly like this picture.

This is DP90LF DP402LF right out of the can, and I can make it shine with a california duster.

I'm not above using spi, but with results like this, I'm a little hesitant to change.

I didn't thin it or anything, just mixed it like they said on the can, sprayed it with an old binks #7.

I'm not a very good painter at all, but maybe I got lucky.

36

Rob

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