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What about something like this in general, not specifically
Vacuum Operated Mini 3-Way Fuel Valve Petcock For Gy6 Based Scooters 50cc 150cc | eBay
Under vacuum, the vent could flow freely to the tank, and if calibrated correctly/ideally, under WOT, it would not.
I dont trust that it looks kind of cheap looking, and i dont think you need it anyhow with just the vent open flowing fuel that little command center is so small it's probably way over filling from your stock fuel pump.
 

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I left my vent connected to the charcoal canister which doesn't seem to be aging well. Also is no longer connected to anything on the intake so I wonder if its doing anything useful. Was sort of looking at some Ford ones. 80's and 90's they had some that were rectangular so easy to mount and in many cases only had one connection which I assume is the vent to the tank. They are not especially cheap, $75-150 and you have to get them from a Mustang or truck vendor but it seems like a reasonable option over just leaving it open or maybe with a fuel filter to keep the chunks out.
 

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Hey All,
I just installed the 600 hp kit onto a gm 502 with hei distributor.
I set it up cold and ran it. Timing is set to 10btc IAC counts at idle are 6 to 12
If I warm the engine up and shut it down for 20 minutes it doesn't want to start again
Does anybody have some baseline setting I'm missing?
 

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If I warm the engine up and shut it down for 20 minutes it doesn't want to start again
Does anybody have some baseline setting I'm missing?
I'm not the expert to say which settings to modify but I found it funny when hard starts happened to me, I found myself trying to pump the pedal like it was one of my holley carbs. If you find yourself in another hard start situation and need to go, hold the pedal at approx half throttle while cranking -- it will fire up. I usually start cranking with my foot off the pedal and then bring to approx half throttle. At least that will get you fired up and going.
 

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One apparent feature of FiTech is where ever the throttle is when you turn the key on becomes zero. Once key is on if you floor it it will shut off the fuel like most EFI systems. You can use this feature to try and determine if you are flooding for some reason.

Are you doing timing control or just getting the tach signal from the HEI?

What is your fuel pump and return setup? It really doesn't take much heat to boil fuel.
 

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Hello! I have a 55 Chevy truck with 383 stroker in it. I purchased the Fitech Go street EFI400 and command center. On first start up, I noticed the EFI was not spraying gas into it. It would spray once after I was done cranking it over. I called FiTech after several days of trying to get this thing running, and got a tech who really was not to pleasant. He told me that the problem was a wiring issue and I needed 12v on on and 12v during crank. After metering the ignition switch, I found that at crank the meter was dropping to 6. So I replaced the switch with a painless switch, metered it at on and crank and got consistent 12v. With that being said, the unit still did the same thing. Has anyone experienced this problem, and if so how did you solve it? Starting to think I got a bad unit..
 

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Hello! I have a 55 Chevy truck with 383 stroker in it. I purchased the Fitech Go street EFI400 and command center. On first start up, I noticed the EFI was not spraying gas into it. It would spray once after I was done cranking it over. I called FiTech after several days of trying to get this thing running, and got a tech who really was not to pleasant. He told me that the problem was a wiring issue and I needed 12v on on and 12v during crank. After metering the ignition switch, I found that at crank the meter was dropping to 6. So I replaced the switch with a painless switch, metered it at on and crank and got consistent 12v. With that being said, the unit still did the same thing. Has anyone experienced this problem, and if so how did you solve it? Starting to think I got a bad unit..
Hi it supposed to work like this, you turn the key half way wait a second you hear the unit spray a prime shot then fully turn it and it should start.
 

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Ken, I got the power running direct to the battery. Reptile, yeah it's suppose to work that way, but I'm getting the after spray. Got an email back from Fitech today and they state that the gas flow works off the rpm. I poured some gas down the unit, the engine fired but no rpm's reading on the handheld. I checked the faults and it gave me a rpm noise code. I have the tach wire hooked up to the HEI tack.
 

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Not seeing a tach signal would explain no fuel. This is a coil in cap HEI? And you are to the tach terminal next to BATT? Do you have an actual tach? Maybe try disconnecting that? Seems like I have read of people having issues with more than one thing connected. Default setup I think is for a tach signal but check to be sure its set correctly.
 

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Ken, I got the power running direct to the battery. Reptile, yeah it's suppose to work that way, but I'm getting the after spray. Got an email back from Fitech today and they state that the gas flow works off the rpm. I poured some gas down the unit, the engine fired but no rpm's reading on the handheld. I checked the faults and it gave me a rpm noise code. I have the tach wire hooked up to the HEI tack.
Blue wire to tach, Orange wire to fuel pump, and the rest wired like Figure 10 in the manual? You've double and triple checked all the connections? Sounds like you have a dirty one somewhere, or a lot of EMI near the throttle body.

What are you using for fuel delivery?

Questions might seem dumb, but not being able to get it to work requires dumb questions.

Might want to ask friendly FiTech if trying to start it for 2 weeks with 6V was not the best thing you could do for the intelligence in the throttle body. May not make any difference, but would be good to know.
 

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Ken, I took the tach blue wire off the HEI tach and wired it to the tach wire off my MSD ignition box. Engine fired right up! Thanks for your input!!
If you were between the coil and MSD box that is 1 point for FiTech for designing that input not to fry with that kind of incoming voltage.
 

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Hey All,
I just installed the 600 hp kit onto a gm 502 with hei distributor.
I set it up cold and ran it. Timing is set to 10btc IAC counts at idle are 6 to 12
If I warm the engine up and shut it down for 20 minutes it doesn't want to start again
Does anybody have some baseline setting I'm missing?
Probably due to the Prime shot.

Fitech uses a Prime shot to fire fuel into the intake before cranking. This works well on a cold engine, but it doesn't have any adjustability for temp. So it also fires that same amount into a warm engine.

I suggest getting your prime fuel value set lower until warm starts work. Then increase the crank and afterstart fuel at the 20f and 60f temps to make cold starts work.

One way you can see if this is the case is to disable the prime shot using the gas pedal. If you hold the pedal all the way down while you turn the key on, it will disable the prime shot for that start. So hold pedal down, turn key on, wait for the prime sequence to finish, then release pedal and try to start engine. If that works on a warm/hot engine, then you know the prime shot is the cause.
 

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Ken, I took the tach blue wire off the HEI tach and wired it to the tach wire off my MSD ignition box. Engine fired right up! Thanks for your input!!
That's because that is how it should be wired. >:)
 

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That's because that is how it should be wired. >:)
I think I have the blue wire right on the side of my HEI cap on the connectors I don't know why it would matter to connect the blue wire further up right on the wire ware it comes directly out of the MSD unit?
 

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I went through the samething this weekend just gone when we put my car on the dyno. We ended up using a laptop with Wndows XP and had to play around with the coms ports to get it to talk to the hand held. Took us an hour and a half but got it working in the end.
So I also have tried Windows 8 and Now windows 10 and am still getting timeout messages. Windows XP is no longer supported by Microsoft. Did you ever get this working on a supported operating system?

Also why is fitech shipping an unsigned driver?

Thanks!
 
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