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Xterrable,

I'm going to assume that you tried letting the system learn with the defaults and they did not work. So....

Write down what you have, and replace the numbers you listed above with some mad science ...

You won't blow up your motor. Worst case is it'll cough some, and you'll have to put your numbers back in and wait until you stumble on what works. You might have to wait for the engine to warm up a little. I can start mine and take off with these numbers, but it doesn't get below zero F here.

My warm idle RPM target is 800. I haven't checked my IAC number for a month, but last time I looked it was between 3-5 once the car is warmed up.

Idle AFR Target = 14.35 not too stinky, not too lean
1100 45kPa = 13.65
3000 45kPA = 14.75
6000 45kPA = 13.40
WOT all = 12.7

Quite a discrepancy between yours numbers and mine on ACCEL PUMP.
Accel pump 65F = 1.6
Accel Pump 170F = 1.6
Fast Accel 65F = 1.6
Fast Accel 170F = 1.6

Bonus ACCEL PUMP functions
dTPS Acc Gain = 111.3
dTPS ACC Max =139.8

REV LIMIT DECEL CUT
Decel Open IAC = -40.60
Decel Cut Fuel MAP = 27.50
Decel Return MAP = 30.00
DFCO Return Fuel = 40.6.
Dry Ring Fill PW = 4.19

Here are some conservative SPARK MAP numbers

Idle Advance 18
1100 45kPA = 22.1
3000 45kPA = 39.4
6000 45kPA = 39.4
WOT 1100 95 kPa = 19.9
WOT 3000 95 kPa = 32.3
WOT 6000 95 kPa = 32.3

The ECU software does change numbers a little if it can't work with what you input. Nothing to worry about.
 

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I tweaked some of the numbers and have everything "fixed" except one thing.. when i stomp the gas from a stand still or try to foot brake a burn out. I get a stumble or stutter between 1500-2000 rpm. Tried changing every setting and no dice. Now keep in mind i have a stock th350 with stock converter right now. We are thinking that the issue lies in the tranny not being matched to the power output of the motor and cam. Unless i am over looking one of the settings. Otherwise no more issues. No backfire, no stutter when slight on the gas.
 

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I tweaked some of the numbers and have everything "fixed" except one thing.. when i stomp the gas from a stand still or try to foot brake a burn out. I get a stumble or stutter between 1500-2000 rpm. Tried changing every setting and no dice. Now keep in mind i have a stock th350 with stock converter right now. We are thinking that the issue lies in the tranny not being matched to the power output of the motor and cam. Unless i am over looking one of the settings. Otherwise no more issues. No backfire, no stutter when slight on the gas.
Did you richen up the 1100 45kPa AFR number? If you richen up the 1100 AFR number, you'll get some more fuel right where you have this problem. You'll know right away if it's not helping and the Accel Pump 170 setting is too high. The system is real sensitive to those AFR numbers. Anyway, richening up the 1100 number is just a troubleshooting technique.

When properly tuned, you should be able to hammer the throttle and smoke the tires through 1st and 2nd in a light weight truck. My car/truck comes unglued when I put it on the floor from a stop with those numbers I posted. Every motor has different needs. Some run fine without changing anything, some don't.

I doubt your motor is over powering the torque converter and transmission, unless the both of them are shot. A stock converter in front of a TH350 all behind a theoretically 400hp engine should easily boil the tires without hiccups using the FiTech.

Do you have the 400HP version or the 600HP version of the FiTech throttle body? Just curious

How about a pic of your truck and engine bay? Would be nice to see what you are working with.
 

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73Eldo - I saw your post at the bottom of the previous page. I saw it and said I'll read it later. Later came and I looked at it again but wasn't ready to digest it. Pushed it off till a day later. Well. I finally read it, and digested it. My brain hurts but what you said kind of makes sense. I am using timing control. I set my crank 14 BTDC and followed Fitech's written directions in their QuickStartGuideFinalV5.PDF file. It worked from day one (two weeks ago). And after watching the video posted towards the top of the previous page where they show how to see the timing advance by using a spare cap with a hole drilled at cyl #1, I tried it. My finding is that Fitech's directions got me close where spark happens when the rotor pickup is aligned with the cap cyl #1 terminal and that includes any advance observed through the hole. I had to keep telling myself that the rotor is not advancing/moving, it is simply the strobe of the timing light showing me when the spark is happening, which makes it look like that rotor is moving. Now that I understand it a bit better, I adjusted the rotor a pinch more to be dead on the cap cyl #1 terminal. Fitech's directions got me close. Now I'm dead on the terminal.

I still have much to do (learn). Only tonight I realized the very first thing I should have done two weeks ago was to get the IAC Steps reading down to a reasonable number. That number has been in the 200's since day one. As of that last hour, I'm now down to 20 and looking to get down further. And I'm just now figuring out I need to do something about the VR Advance 4000 setting as mine currently reads 17 which seems out of wack. Between that and forgetting to plug one of the fat vacuum ports, I will set the unit to do a complete relearn and let it start over.
 

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The VR is an additional calibration to make sure your actual timing and displayed timing match at higher rpms. Once you get it matching at low R's you can use that setting to get it to match at higher R's.

Don't forget to check your breakpoints and make sure they are at RPM's that make sense for your setup. Also note that the labels for the settings will still show the default breakpoints but the points do actually change.
 

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Vr 4000 default is 17 and you add or subtract from that the amount it is off at 4000 rpm
17.6 is the actual default, but who's counting? ;)
 

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The VR is an additional calibration to make sure your actual timing and displayed timing match at higher rpms. Once you get it matching at low R's you can use that setting to get it to match at higher R's.

Don't forget to check your breakpoints and make sure they are at RPM's that make sense for your setup. Also note that the labels for the settings will still show the default breakpoints but the points do actually change.
Good tip on the RPM breakpoints. I set them for how I drive and also to correct flabby spots in the power band. Very handy.

I would like to see user functions for setting the accel pump shot at a specified RPM and duration. That might be a fun.
 

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Afternoon, I got my TSP Billet distributor all hooked up today and rewired as required to allow Fitech to do the timing. Took my MSD 6Al out of the equation. Initially ran excellent, fitech black line hooked to negative post of the msd HVC coil ( already owned), ran strong, and no more erratic break ups at 4200 rpm( as the old distributor provided)

Drove it for a short time, then would have random rpm display on autometer tach and fitech handheld just drop off and pop back on, then once it while shuts down and displays a 58934 number for rpm.
Turned off the system, let it reset and it seemed to work okay.

2 hours later, went to start it again, when power turned on, tach shows fluctuating random numbers, like 178, 608, 52 etc. Fitech and coil was clicking. At this point would not start, so I installed a different ecoil I had ( procomp) and it starts up with little issue, and is not breaking up, so far.

While it is running strong and smooth, it still displays those random tach numbers on power on and the coil is clicking..

IS this normal? Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks, Ken
 

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Vr 4000 default is 17 and you add or subtract from that the amount it is off at 4000 rpm
The directions Fitech provides on this VR 4000 setting is almost nothing, a very small comment in the HandheldcontrollerfeatureDefinitions.PDF which leaves more questions than answers. So if my timing on the balancer says 30 at 4000rpm. And I look at what the timing reads on the Fitech handheld and it says 30, do I enter 0 into the VR 4000 space?

On my old mechanical setup of weights controlling advance, by the time rpm was at 3,000 my advance was maxed at 34 total. It was set that way only because that is how the weights worked and the engine ran decent enough. My power range of my cam comes in at 3200 and exits at 6800. I always assumed I needed to be at max advance by 3,000
 

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The directions Fitech provides on this VR 4000 setting is almost nothing, a very small comment in the HandheldcontrollerfeatureDefinitions.PDF which leaves more questions than answers. So if my timing on the balancer says 30 at 4000rpm. And I look at what the timing reads on the Fitech handheld and it says 30, do I enter 0 into the VR 4000 space?

On my old mechanical setup of weights controlling advance, by the time rpm was at 3,000 my advance was maxed at 34 total. It was set that way only because that is how the weights worked and the engine ran decent enough. My power range of my cam comes in at 3200 and exits at 6800. I always assumed I needed to be at max advance by 3,000
You would leave vr4000 at 17.6 the default not 0
 

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While it is running strong and smooth, it still displays those random tach numbers on power on and the coil is clicking..

IS this normal? Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks, Ken
Not normal on mine, but I'm not running an autometer tach. My coil does not click when I turn the key to the On position or any other position. The only thing that happens at key On is my fuel pump runs and primes the throttle body. My VDO tach doesn't do anything until I start the car.

Rewire it according to the FiTech diagram with the 6AL in the ignition path, unless you know for a fact the 6AL does not work. I have zero issues with the 6AL in the ignition path running timing control. Triple check all your wiring for your installation. Be sure Coil Drive is set to VRCoil not Tach.

The clicking coil is a puzzler for me. I've never experienced that in 6+ decades. Sounds wired wrong to me as if more than one device is trying to drive the coil. Nothing should be trying to drive the coil at key On as far as I know.
 

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So if my timing on the balancer says 30 at 4000rpm. And I look at what the timing reads on the Fitech handheld and it says 30, do I enter 0 into the VR 4000 space?
If the handheld has 17.6 in the VR4000 field when checking the timing, and the timing numbers match on the handheld and balancer at 4000 RPM, you are done. If that were the case and you entered 0 in the VR4000 field, there would be a discrepancy between the timing numbers of around 17.6 degrees at 4000 RPM.

All covered a few times in this thread. Try a search
 

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Thanks I was thinking of putting back the 6al to test .very weird
Ken
Be sure the tach check feature on the 6AL is disabled. I think it freaks out the FiTech ECU.
 

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Put the 6 Al back in the system.. ran fine last night .

Went to start it this morning and it just randomly shuts down.. Handheld stays lit up, but no information displayed. Like no power, yet, 14 volts on the system...
restarts right away,, runs for a bit, then stops. Occasionally displays 6 digit number in the Tach field when it cuts out. Sure seems like the ECU is Malfunctioning, sending RPM signal without distributor turning.

Guess it 's a call to Fitech this morning. Not sure Why it will not run in timing control.. Using Tach setup worked fine. When it did work, timing control was fantastic.. has never idled so well.


MSD tach verification is off.

and no fault codes.

It was a nice walk to work .

Ken
 

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Ken,

Could be the ECU, I suppose. FiTech says it is an electrical problem that causes a shut down for no reason.

Are you positive you have 12V at the switched key On connection (White skinny wire) to the throttle body when starting and running? 14V at the battery and volt meter don't mean that switched connection is good. It means your alternator is putting out 14V. Just reminding you in case frustration made you forget. :)

My memory is not that great, but I do remember having to check those skinny wire connections for one reason or another, and it might have been a no start situation after I was fooling around with rerouting my O2 sensor harness. In the end I stripped about an inch off of those wires and doubled them back, then put solder on them before putting them into bullet connectors. Bullet connectors are not recommended. Full on solder job and tape or heat shrink tubing is the right way. However, I knew I would be replacing this throttle body eventually and wanted to be able to take it off with a minimum of hassle. Check those connections before giving up completely.
 

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Ken,

Could be the ECU, I suppose. FiTech says it is an electrical problem that causes a shut down for no reason.

Are you positive you have 12V at the switched key On connection (White skinny wire) to the throttle body when starting and running? 14V at the battery and volt meter don't mean that switched connection is good. It means your alternator is putting out 14V. Just reminding you in case frustration made you forget. :)

My memory is not that great, but I do remember having to check those skinny wire connections for one reason or another, and it might have been a no start situation after I was fooling around with rerouting my O2 sensor harness. In the end I stripped about an inch off of those wires and doubled them back, then put solder on them before putting them into bullet connectors. Bullet connectors are not recommended. Full on solder job and tape or heat shrink tubing is the right way. However, I knew I would be replacing this throttle body eventually and wanted to be able to take it off with a minimum of hassle. Check those connections before giving up completely.
Thanks, Yes, will be checking the white power line, will change it's connection point tonight to verify. It's funny because it starts right back up..

Ken
 

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Put the 6 Al back in the system.. ran fine last night .

Went to start it this morning and it just randomly shuts down.. Handheld stays lit up, but no information displayed. Like no power, yet, 14 volts on the system...
restarts right away,, runs for a bit, then stops. Occasionally displays 6 digit number in the Tach field when it cuts out. Sure seems like the ECU is Malfunctioning, sending RPM signal without distributor turning.

Guess it 's a call to Fitech this morning. Not sure Why it will not run in timing control.. Using Tach setup worked fine. When it did work, timing control was fantastic.. has never idled so well.


MSD tach verification is off.

and no fault codes.

It was a nice walk to work .

Ken
That's pretty common unfortunately. Many users going to timing control have had the 59k issue. The tach reads 59000 rpm, and the ecu shuts down usually. But you can fire it right back up after a quick key on/off. And it's totally random.

The fix is different for most people.

1. make sure your Tach wire is away from all power and ignition wires. It's still live when using the timing control. At least according to Fitech.

2. make sure to isolate the black coil wire from all power and ignition wires.

3. make sure your 2 wire pickup wires are also away from all power and ignition wires. (seeing a theme here?)

4. If your rotor is out of phase too much, and you start getting a long travel or weak spark, it can cause excessive emi noise.

5. you can try a few ideas some have used. aluminum tape or copper tape on the pickup wires, to shield. Or using a shielded MSD pickup wire.

6. I personally had this issue on my chevy motor, and a ferrite choke on my pickup wires eliminated the issue.

7. ford engines with the dizzy in the front seem to have the most issues with this. We believe due to proximity to the ecu. some fixed by going small cap, replacing large. one user even did a quick test, and wrapped the dizzy and throttle body in foil and it fixed it. Another did aluminum tape wrapping on the dizzy cap which fixed it. It's just about blocking the emi noise.

8. Some are getting it if they run electric fans and when they kick in, they are introducing some type of feedback. I use electric fans and have no issues, but I also don't have fitech controlling my fans.

So there are some ideas.

Good luck, some have no issues from the start, and some gave up and went to an MSD 6530 CDI with timing control built in. But some trial and error testing will help. Check the suggestions above for testing.

It's usually completely random, and that's why it's tough to isolate.

But even though I'm not boosting, I really enjoy the timing control, and so does my motor. So now that I have used it, if I didn't' fix my 59k issue, I probably would have still went to an external timing control setup.
 

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Good luck, some have no issues from the start, and some gave up and went to an MSD 6530 CDI with timing control built in. But some trial and error testing will help. Check the suggestions above for testing.

It's usually completely random, and that's why it's tough to isolate.

But even though I'm not boosting, I really enjoy the timing control, and so does my motor. So now that I have used it, if I didn't' fix my 59k issue, I probably would have still went to an external timing control setup.
Good trouble shooting info.

Glad I don't own a Ford. If I used electric cooling fans, I'd replace my 100amp alternator with a 140amp to be on the safe side. 100amp is barely enough with everything turned on in the rain.

I guess I was one of the lucky ones from the start with regard to this phenomenon. Might be because the majority of my EFI wiring is under the intake runners laying on top of the valley cover of an air gap style intake, and no cooling fans. I also use that cheap corrugated black plastic wire wrap where ever I can make it fit. I have it on all the 6AL wires and any unwrapped wires coming out of the throttle body. Oddly I actually have that entire bundle of skinny wires wound up in a cute 3.5 inch circle just behind the throttle body and right in front of my distributor. I don't have any wrap on them either.



Could also be the tin foil hat I wear to keep aliens from reading my mind that is protecting my motor from EMI. I think those Ford guys should get one. >:)
 
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