[JBoggs]

Finished installing Moser 9 with 3.70 Gears and tested the car. Best of 7.18 and 95.8 MPH

Did ok, was really wanting a 6.9 or so. Did drive it there and back without any breakage, so that was a big plus.

Car does not 60 well. Spinning and pulls the left front (what I was told) to about the 60 sensor. Feels like it hooks about a 100' foot out, just a guess. Buddy said it does not squat very well in the rear after launch. No vid's sorry.

Stall is a TCI 1800, I can hold it to about 2500. Thinking of a Coan but would like to wait for Winter.

TH400 is a TCI. Shifts strong no slippage that I can feel.

Suspension is a Edelbrock solid lowers and double adjustable uppers. Springs and shocks are stock, with no front or rear sway bar.

I have small headers, that I think are really killing me. 1 3/4 and 3" exhaust. Won't help it hook better but would make a lot more power I suspect. Lemons this winter.

Tank was 3/4 full of 93.

275/60/15 MT DR with 18 or 19 PSI with a good burnout, not John Force but good amount of smoke.

Motor is a crate 555 Musi Edelbrock, with a 1150 dominator, not the 830 that would not let it spin much past 5. Rated about 650 HP and TQ.

Question is, would 90/10 front and 50/50 rear with a rear sway bar help much? What 60' would help me break into the 6's? Also wondering with my mph is it enough to be 10's? I think 7.0 is a 10.99, looking to go a little faster.

I have made a lot of passes in a fox body stick car, so getting back to the track after 5 or 6 years felt really good.

Missed drive like a dummy on the 7.24 @94. Did not hold the lever all the way down on the pro stick.

No shift light so consistent not real easy looking down at the tach....

 

[nastynate]

Jarad, anti roll bar and adjustable 3 way shocks help my car to hook better. I skipped the airbags.. More stall will help you later once you get better traction.. The car has to transfer weight to hookup..Front drag type or looser stock springs will help a lot along with 90/10 shocks, get rid of the sway bar also up front.. I went from 1.68 to 1.51 with the anti roll bar in the 60 ft..

 

[mfret1970]

You mentioned foot braking to 2500, is this how you launched the car?

You may try bringing it just off idle as you light the Stage bulb, then stab it on the 3rd yellow. This will flash the converter and allow the suspension to work.

When loading the suspension at the line, it causes the suspension to start doing odd things, before its necessary. Allowing the suspension to "work in real time" may lead to better short times.


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[kettbo]

Mike, think he was just giving the converter characteristics vs driving technique. Sure hope so anyway.

Here's the problem, PAT MUSI 555 combined with 275DRs. Are ya kidding me?

first, get the car to launch, forget about more power and more converter...you'll be fighting yourself forever!

short list on whatya need right away:
Quality front springs
4-way adj shocks
rear anti-roll bar

 

[Calculated Risk]

Honestly, you need the correct converter for the car. I wouldn't spend a penny on any of the other stuff till you get the converter and see where you are.

Also, save money for a double adjustable shock in the rear. Just use stockers till you get to the point that you can get the doubles. Plus you are using a radial tire, a double adj in the rear will help far more. Adjustments need to be made independently. Compression will be maxxed out and you'll need to adjust extension to control the apply of the "hit".


A car should not squat at lauch, it should seperate the body from the tire. When you see that, you have geometry planting the tire.



Do not cheap out on the converter, Coan is a good company, buy what they recomend and then run the car again.



Just completely eliminate 90-10/70-30/50-50 from your vocabulary, it's old tech and in my opinion a total waste of money. You can get the same results with Autozone stock replacement shocks, to a point.

 

[kettbo]

remove further weight from the nose of the car!

 

[JBoggs]

The front of the car is much lighter. Harwood Fiberglass hood, battery in the trunk, alum rad, manual steering, alum heads, no heater or wiper parts.

I want to wait on getting the converter until winter. I was going to call Coan and get the unit they recommend. Could be swayed if this is the only way to get a decent 60'.

I priced QA1 double adjustable today, probably get those unless there is an option that is as good but cheaper. Also considering air bags for a temp fix combined with the rear shocks and test? Thoughts?

Yes, I held the brake to load the car. Only driven stick cars so this was my first passes with an auto.

Do I have the mph to hit 6's?

 

[Offroadr]

.

I priced QA1 double adjustable today, probably get those unless there is an option that is as good but cheaper. Also considering air bags for a temp fix combined with the rear shocks and test? Thoughts?

Although more $$ you are better off doing it right. Otherwise you will spend money over and over. Speaking from experience here!! Let my pain not be your pain lol.

Don't spend $$ on airbags go straight to the ARB.

Don't go cheaper than QA1s on shocks, I would go better.

Put the right convertor in it.

 

[Calculated Risk]

The front of the car is much lighter. Harwood Fiberglass hood, battery in the trunk, alum rad, manual steering, alum heads, no heater or wiper parts.

I want to wait on getting the converter until winter. I was going to call Coan and get the unit they recommend. Could be swayed if this is the only way to get a decent 60'.

I priced QA1 double adjustable today, probably get those unless there is an option that is as good but cheaper. Also considering air bags for a temp fix combined with the rear shocks and test? Thoughts?

Yes, I held the brake to load the car. Only driven stick cars so this was my first passes with an auto.

Do I have the mph to hit 6's?

Price out the Afco's or Stranges. The Qa1's don't always follow a linear curve with clicks. With one click they can drastically change then the next will be zero difference. But you need to dyno the shock to get this gem of info. Also the valving isn't really geared towards drag racing. Afco, Santuff and Penske's are, but of those 3 only Afco are really affordable.

 

[Offroadr]

Price out the Afco's or Stranges. The Qa1's don't always follow a linear curve with clicks. With one click they can drastically change then the next will be zero difference. But you need to dyno the shock to get this gem of info. Also the valving isn't really geared towards drag racing. Afco, Santuff and Penske's are, but of those 3 only Afco are really affordable.

^^^^ An echo of my comment

And if you are going AFCO (which you should) you might as well spend a little more and have Mark Mencser custom build them for your car and get his support afterwards. Its just a bit more than buying them from Jegs or Summit

 

[crazydavey]

^^^^ An echo of my comment

And if you are going AFCO (which you should) you might as well spend a little more and have Mark Mencser custom build them for your car and get his support afterwards. Its just a bit more than buying them from Jegs or Summit

if you go AFCO follow Jay's advice.....next time I get a set I will...

 

[JBoggs]

I priced them all out, and local shop highly recommends the AFCO's, these will wait until next month. Just dropped 2K on a rearend. Only want to buy them once... Afco's seem to be what everone is leaning on.

Hoping I have the mph to hit 6.99 or better this year.

 

[bdr66]

On your rear control arms, try the lower holes out. Haven't had the chance to mess with these 4 link setups yet but at least on my Camaro, the lower mounting holes helped out a ton planting the rear end instead of squatting.

 

[JBoggs]

On your rear control arms, try the lower holes out. Haven't had the chance to mess with these 4 link setups yet but at least on my Camaro, the lower mounting holes helped out a ton planting the rear end instead of squatting.

I will look again and see if I can. The lower shock bolt was in the way and I mounted the lower arm 1 up from the lowest.

 

[mfret1970]

Mike, think he was just giving the converter characteristics vs driving technique. Sure hope so anyway.

Here's the problem, PAT MUSI 555 combined with 275DRs. Are ya kidding me?

first, get the car to launch, forget about more power and more converter...you'll be fighting yourself forever!

short list on whatya need right away:
Quality front springs
4-way adj shocks
rear anti-roll bar

Reason I ask, and George you're at the track all the time, so you see guys get all the way up on the converter, car trying to twist in half--I think it's a common misconception among new racers and/or guys that only occasionally race their car. In this case, a guy that's new to running a slush box vs row-yer-own.


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[blue66]

Lots of great advice here^^^^ What I see....Headers are too small, exhaust is too small, wrong converter, wrong shocks, wrong launch technique, needs a rear ARB.

Start with your launch technique. Do not load the car hard. Just off idle, say 1500 approx. Get the right converter before you deal with shocks....Otherwise, when you do get the right converter you'll be starting all over on shock settings.

Headers and exhaust will not effect 60ft much, but I am sure it will ET better with a 2" header and a straight thru 3.5" muffler. Thats a big mill it needs to breathe.

Still running the old red ryder gabriels in mine. Don't waste money on 70/30, 90/10's etc. etc. as others have said.

Get some sort of rear ARB bolt on or weld in whatever you prefer. It will straighten the car out on launch and keep the tires squarley planted.

You need to get everything working together and things will come around for you.

 

[JBoggs]

I want to see how much if any airbags will help so I installed them. TNT is Friday night, if weather holds out I will hit it. Will start with 15psi in the passenager side and test. Hoping this will limp me along till winter when I want to rebuild the suspension front and rear.

Also called Dan Lemons and ordered 2 1/4" race headers with 4" collectors. Not sure mine are big enough to be called 1 3/4", if they are, it's on the small side.

 

[Kirk's67SS]

Jarad, I found that running a Air Bag in each side help me on the unpreped Tracks

5-10lbs on the driver side and 10-15lbs on the passenger side

My 60' are not great yet as Front End is not swinging up just raising up and then going back down to soon

New Front Suspension Tubular Upper and Lower Control arms from UMI Perf & Viking Front Double Adj Shocks-Coil Overs
plus Vikings Rear Double Adj Shocks going on this week

 

[Dakenzie1]

Jarad, I found that running a Air Bag in each side help me on the unpreped Tracks.
5-10lbs on the driver side and 10-15lbs on the passenger side
eek

The air bag on the passenger side is intended to help pre-load that tire and help keep it planted. It does this, as air pressure is increased, by trying to lift the car off the axle. This acts as a force pressing down on the axle/tire.

The driver side tire, on the other hand, is loaded/planted upon acceleration, by torque being applied to the axle and the rotational forces whereas the pinion is trying to climb up the ring gear.

This being said, if your car was improved by a drivers side air bag, it would seem to me that the air bag was somehow aiding the spring or shock on that side.

I am far from an expert and learning here like the rest, so someone chime in if I am wrong.