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Ryan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well it’s finally time. I’ve officially started the process of swapping out my 51 year old body mounts.

I ordered a flexible oiling can from Amazon and filled it with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.

Getting to the top of the bolts is difficult so I pulled the back seat out, and did some measuring. Drilled a 1/8” hole directly over the top of the two caged nuts that are located forward of the rear tires. I also drilled a 1/8” hole through the trunk pan, directly over to top of the two bolts that are rearward of the rear tires. To get access to the front bolts behind the front wheel wells, I just removed a few inner fender well bolts to get my hands and oiling can in there. For the far rear bolts behind the rear bumper, I was able to snake the oiling can in there through a hole in the frame.

I’ve been squirting these once every day or every other day for a bout a week and a half now.

So far as of today 11/21/21, half of them have been successfully loosened without breaking anything!

The two behind the front wheel wells don’t seem like they want to budge yet. (I’m not cranking on them super hard.)
The two in front of the rear wheels are free.
The rest on the driver side aren’t ready yet.
The rest on the Passenger side are free.

So far it seems like patience is paying off!
 

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Yep you do NOT want to turn the flat sort of rectangle caged nut...Once it turns in the area it's it you are doomed to cut the floor to stop the nut from turning...You Might be able to drill a hole to put a nail or pin in to stop the nut from spinning. They look long and sort of the shape of a WWI tank. The points catch the corners of the body where they are housed.
Take your time....as Blackhawk said don't worry about the very fronts!
 

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Worst case if it spins just do a 3 sided whizzer cut peal back the floor and install a new caged nut. Then just peen down the metal with some welds and your done but have a welder mat to protect your interior. As long as you have access to a decent welder no biggie. I have found more broken bolts then spun cage nuts thanks to the NE weather.
 

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If you don't have a lot of rust, chances are the bolts will come right out.
 

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Ryan
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You guys are right. The fronts are the square nuts. I completely spaced on that. That means I only have 2 bolts to go! I will continue to soak them daily. Luckily this is a CA car and had been in the garage since I’ve owned it. (2004 I think)
 
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1971 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu
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On my car I didn't soak them at all and only had the very last back cage nut spin. I had the rear bumper off so I cut out a slot in the rear panel large enough to get a 1" opened end wrench in on the nut after breaking the cage part off. I put it back together the same way and just left the slot open because there are other holes from the factory that are open from the factory and you can't see it when the bumpers on anyways.
Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Tints and shades
 

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Ryan
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On my car I didn't soak them at all and only had the very last back cage nut spin. I had the rear bumper off so I cut out a slot in the rear panel large enough to get a 1" opened end wrench in on the nut after breaking the cage part off. I put it back together the same way and just left the slot open because there are other holes from the factory that are open from the factory and you can't see it when the bumpers on anyways. View attachment 726145
Glad it worked out for you. I really don’t want to remove my rear bumper. My goal is to not have to remove anything, spin zero cage nuts, and cut zero holes (besides the small holes that I drilled).
 
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1966 Malibu, 327, Muncie, 3.23 posi
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I soaked mine with PB Blaster for 2 weeks before I took it to my restoration guy. He said it really didn't help much. He still fought with some spinning nuts/bolts. I thought mine would be a breeze since it's lived a summer and weekend life since the mid 90's. I should have gone rubber instead of poly. It's a firm ride but I'm still happy and have peace of mind knowing that it's done.
 

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Ryan
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah
I soaked mine with PB Blaster for 2 weeks before I took it to my restoration guy. He said it really didn't help much. He still fought with some spinning nuts/bolts. I thought mine would be a breeze since it's lived a summer and weekend life since the mid 90's. I should have gone rubber instead of poly. It's a firm ride but I'm still happy and have peace of mind knowing that it's done.
I tried with PB blaster in the past. Acetone and ATF is supposed to be way better so I though I’d give it a shot. So far so good. It definitely seems to be better than PB. I haven’t soaked those last few bolts in a couple days. Tomorrow I’ll give ‘em a squirt and see if they come loose.
 

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Ryan
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I too am spraying atf/acetone on my body mounts. Havent tried loosening yet but a healty dose of magic liquid daily is all i can do. Good luck with the last two op
So far it seems to be living up to the hype. Good luck with your mounts!
 
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