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This topic has been covered before, but I found an easy way to spend practically nothing to plumb up an LS engine with junkyard fuel lines, without using heat or boiling water, and no tools other than a hammer.

Been helping my brother with LS swap into his 65 post 300 Chevelle. Last month we went to the local Pull-a-Part and scrounged $20 worth of nylon fuel lines and fittings from a 95 Caprice and a mid-nineties Caddy. Took the removal tool with us and salvaged all the push-on connectors undamaged. Also salvaged the plastic clips that route the 2 lines alongside each other

Working from the engine back toward the tank, we measured needed length to run down the driver side frame rail to a GM fuel filter and then on to the tank. Did the same with the return line. After choosing the best lines, we needed to install 4 new connectors. None of our local parts stores stocked these, so I decided to try to re-use the original connectors.

First, I picked a 12" section of 2x4 and sawed in half along its' short dimension, giving me two 3/4" x 3 1/2" pieces. Clamped these together in the vise, and drilled 2 holes along the split. One hole is 11/32", the other 9/32". This gives a perfect fit to hold both sizes of fuel line in place while installing connectors.

Now, to salvaging the original connectors. Cut the fuel line about 3/8" below the connector barb. Using a pair of side cutter pliers, make a single snip in one wall of the line back toward the barb being careful not to nick the barb. Using the side cutters, slowly peel the line diagonally down toward the barb. The line will continue to split as you work down and around toward the connector end of the barb. Using this method, I salvaged all needed connectors without damage.

Installation is a piece of cake. Use a sharp single edge blade to make a square cut at the desired place on the fuel line. Clamp the fuel line into the 2x4 with a vise, with just enough line sticking up for the length of the barb plus a smidge. Remove the inner clip from the connector, and lube the barb lightly with WD40 or whatever lube you have. Start the tip of the barb into the line by hand and use a wood block and hammer to tap the fitting in. Take care to hold the wood block square, it only takes 3 or 4 taps of the hammer to fully seat the connector barb into the line. Re-install the inner clip and remove from the vise. The 2x4 clamp leaves no marks on the lines and the re-purposed connector looks exactly like a factory install.

We literally plumbed the entire car with $20 worth of fuel lines and about $5 for clamps. I'll try to post some pix of the procedure later this week. I hope this helps some of you guys trying to save a buck using factory fuel lines.:thumbsup:
 
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Looking forward to some photos.


I've messed with these in the past (01 Camaro) and they can be a real PITA. Sure wish I had thought of your 2x4 clamp idea, it sounds like it would work very well.


Quick question to the community: Would using factory fuel line be a issue for a NHRA tech (street/strip car)? I know it's ok in a factory application (i.e. new car on the strip) but does a hotrod/swap application present a problem?
 

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This topic has been covered before, but I found an easy way to spend practically nothing to plumb up an LS engine with junkyard fuel lines, without using heat or boiling water, and no tools other than a hammer.

Been helping my brother with LS swap into his 65 post 300 Chevelle. Last month we went to the local Pull-a-Part and scrounged $20 worth of nylon fuel lines and fittings from a 95 Caprice and a mid-nineties Caddy. Took the removal tool with us and salvaged all the push-on connectors undamaged. Also salvaged the plastic clips that route the 2 lines alongside each other

Working from the engine back toward the tank, we measured needed length to run down the driver side frame rail to a GM fuel filter and then on to the tank. Did the same with the return line. After choosing the best lines, we needed to install 4 new connectors. None of our local parts stores stocked these, so I decided to try to re-use the original connectors.

First, I picked a 12" section of 2x4 and sawed in half along its' short dimension, giving me two 3/4" x 3 1/2" pieces. Clamped these together in the vise, and drilled 2 holes along the split. One hole is 11/32", the other 9/32". This gives a perfect fit to hold both sizes of fuel line in place while installing connectors.

Now, to salvaging the original connectors. Cut the fuel line about 3/8" below the connector barb. Using a pair of side cutter pliers, make a single snip in one wall of the line back toward the barb being careful not to nick the barb. Using the side cutters, slowly peel the line diagonally down toward the barb. The line will continue to split as you work down and around toward the connector end of the barb. Using this method, I salvaged all needed connectors without damage.

Installation is a piece of cake. Use a sharp single edge blade to make a square cut at the desired place on the fuel line. Clamp the fuel line into the 2x4 with a vise, with just enough line sticking up for the length of the barb plus a smidge. Remove the inner clip from the connector, and lube the barb lightly with WD40 or whatever lube you have. Start the tip of the barb into the line by hand and use a wood block and hammer to tap the fitting in. Take care to hold the wood block square, it only takes 3 or 4 taps of the hammer to fully seat the connector barb into the line. Re-install the inner clip and remove from the vise. The 2x4 clamp leaves no marks on the lines and the re-purposed connector looks exactly like a factory install.

We literally plumbed the entire car with $20 worth of fuel lines and about $5 for clamps. I'll try to post some pix of the procedure later this week. I hope this helps some of you guys trying to save a buck using factory fuel lines.:thumbsup:
O'Reilly's sells a Dorman fuel line of this same product. Less than $20 for a roll enough to do a car of new line. Buy the barb fittings and you are set.
 

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OK I get it now..so you ARE using plastic fuel lines? Any one out there that 1/4 mile races know are these lines track legal?
It must be.
Plastic lines have been factory equipment for 20 years.
I've seen plenty of guys run stock/new cars at the track.
 

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It must be.
Plastic lines have been factory equipment for 20 years.
I've seen plenty of guys run stock/new cars at the track.
Stock new cars get a pass on some things that a modified car will not, that's why I asked the same question a few posts earlier.

Really hope someone with tech inspection experience will jump in and provide a definitive answer.

I checked an on-line list of NHRA acceptable fuel line and the factory plastic line is not included. Further, there is a line that states "All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-accepted". Based on this statement I would say OEM plastic lines are only approved on cars they were originally equipped with them and still in a OEM fuel line configuration. However, NHRA rules are often not as black and white or common sense as one would hope (understatement) so maybe the "non-OEM" statement could be interpreted to say that OEM plastic line is ok even in a non-stock configuration (EFI retrofit in older vehicles). I doubt it but...........

Accepted lines are listed on page 101 of this link: http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/NHRAAcceptedProducts.pdf


Note


 

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Stock new cars get a pass on some things that a modified car will not, that's why I asked the same question a few posts earlier.

Really hope someone with tech inspection experience will jump in and provide a definitive answer.

I checked an on-line list of NHRA acceptable fuel line and the factory plastic line is not included. Further, there is a line that states "All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-accepted". Based on this statement I would say OEM plastic lines are only approved on cars they were originally equipped with them and still in a OEM fuel line configuration. However, NHRA rules are often not as black and white or common sense as one would hope (understatement) so maybe the "non-OEM" statement could be interpreted to say that OEM plastic line is ok even in a non-stock configuration (EFI retrofit in older vehicles). I doubt it but...........

Accepted lines are listed on page 101 of this link: http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/NHRAAcceptedProducts.pdf


Note



And Im in the same boat with my 64 Tempest LS conversion. I initially did "soft lines" to the front from the tank but recently bent 3/8 steel line for this reason. Im not sure whats legal but at the Good Guys car show ALL the LS conversions I saw were using the steel lines there...just saying
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As promised, some pix of my cheap-skate procedure to install connectors on nylon fuel line.

Pic 1 - First, I picked a 12" section of 2x4 and sawed in half along its' short dimension, giving me two 3/4" x 3 1/2" pieces.

Pic 2 - Clamped into the vise, and drilled 2 holes along the split. One hole is 11/32", the other 9/32". These hold both sizes of fuel line in place while installing connectors.

Pic 3 - If re-using original connectors, cut fuel line about 3/8" below the connector barb.

Pic 4 - Using a pair of side cutter pliers, make a single snip in one wall of the line back toward the barb being careful not to nick the barb.

Pic 5 - Using the side cutters, slowly peel the line diagonally down toward the barb. The line will continue to split as you work down and around toward the connector end of the barb.

Pic 6 - I salvaged all needed connectors without damage.

Pic 7 - Use a sharp single edge blade to make a square cut at the desired place on the fuel line. Clamp the fuel line into the 2x4 with a vise, with just enough line sticking up for the length of the barb plus a smidge.

Pic 8 - Remove the inner clip from the connector, and lube the barb lightly with WD40. Start the tip of the barb into the line by hand.

Pic 9 - Use a wood block and hammer to tap the fitting in. This is the fitting after a couple hammer taps, checking to make sure it goes into the line straight.

Pic 10 - Connector fully inserted.

Pic 11 - Can you tell which connector is OEM? Factory install on the bottom, mine on the top. The wood block clamp leaves no tooling marks on the lines.
 

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Thank you for sharing the ins and outs, will prob be duplicating your work shortly! :beers::thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you for sharing the ins and outs, will prob be duplicating your work shortly! :beers::thumbsup:
Jeff, it was surprisingly easy. If I can do it, anybody on this forum can.
 
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