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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I was planning on reusing my Rear upper control arms on a rear end rebuild I am doing. When removing one upper control arm I notice that one ear had a large bulge near a bolt hole and the holes seems to be enlarged. Anyone ever seen this before? I assume I am going to need to replace the control arm, but I am going to see if I can pound the bulge out and see what it looks like. I'm not sure if it is worth it because I see alot of guys selling them on here for relitivly cheap. There are no differences between upper control arms from non SS to SS cars correct?

Moreover, There was a bar that connected the upper control arm frame bolt to the lower control arm frame bolt. Was this part stock on all chevelles? I got an e-mail from a guy off the forum saying they were F-41 braces. My chevelle is not an SS, but some strange rear end work has been done from previous owners (like a horrible air suspension set up). I assumed all chevelles had this brace, but perhaps not. My brace also had more of a slot on the end that bolted to the LCA. Should this be a slot or has my brace become worn?
 

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The f-41 suspension had the braces. However, the f-41 was an option that was not restricted to SS models, in fact, my malibu 400 had it.

And to answer your question on your other post that was closed. There are no exclusive SS model UCA's. There is a difference between 12 and 10 bolt though. The 12 bolt has a metal tab welded to the driver's side UCAs.
 

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Upper control arms used on a 12 bolt differ. from those used on a 10 bolt.

My understanding is that all factory big block cars an 4 speed cars had frame braces.

That is a factory slot in the brace, the other end is a straight hole.

hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So what is the tab for on the UCA's? That is interesting news about the brace. I had just assumed it came on all chevelles.
I should take some pictures to show the "bulge" I got. I was confused on how I got it. I'm not sure if I did it pressing the bolt out with a c-clamp or if it was there before.
Actually now that I think about it I bet I know how I got the bulge. I think that control are is one I had real difficulties getting off the ear of my 10 bolt. I ended up using a ball joint press to press the bolt out since it had rusted to the bushing badly. I couldn't see it because it was on the opposite side, but I but I pressed the bolt while it was rusted to the bushing and it was rusted to bad the bushing started pressing against my tab. Eventually it made a perfect bulge the size of my opening on the press I had. Then eventally the bolt freed and pushed through. That bolt was really rusted in there.
Rust has been a friend of mine recently. I had to drop both of my exhausts down so I could beat on the bolt threads of the LCA to frame bolt. I had to hit it with all might might and a 5 lb sledge to get them to move. At least all the bolts are now out. I just need to fix what I've broke now.
 

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The tab is there to reinforce the driver's side arm. If you ever look at the ears on a 12 bolt you'll notice that the driver's side has less clearance from the case to the ear (due to the large 12 bolt ring gear being on the driver's side in the case).

The UCA on the driver's side had to be trimmed to allow travel without hitting the case. After trimming, a plate was welded to reinforce it.:thumbsup:
 

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My understanding is that all factory big block cars an 4 speed cars had frame braces.

That is a factory slot in the brace, the other end is a straight hole.

hope this helps.

My car is a 1970 Malibu Small Block Turbo 350 with the F40 trailoring package. It has the rear frame braces and a 12 bolt 3.31
 
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