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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A buddy of mine was trying to start his new motor last night,455 in a 75 trans am,the first 2-3 times we got it to run,it didnt fire til he let off the key,when we tried to idle it down it would die,the last time we got it running trying to adjust the fuel pressure regulator(to was around 12 psi)it died,and everything went dead,no more cranking,no headlights,horn no nothing,I can probably wire anything,but when it comes to trouble shooting electrical problems I am lost...we went back over after work tonight,and he is still trying to figure it out,he replace the starter,new battery cable,new wire to the solenoid,and still its dead,can an ignition switch cause this problem,is there a way to bypass the ignition switch to find out what when wrong...I am baffled and asking for help...thanks in advance
 

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Bob
The 75 T/A should have the HEI so you only need a starter than has one small terminal on it. May have replaced it with a starter that has 2 small terminals on the solenoid. That doesn't matter. The terminal on the starter that you are interested in is the "S" terminal. It is embossed on the solenoid. That is the START solenoid terminal. There is a purple wire on it, if you wired it right. If you jump the "S" terminal to the fat solenoid terminal with the battery cable on it, you bypass the ignition switch and all the wiring. A screwdriver works but it will arc up the threads.
A good battery, a good ground to the block, and jumping these 2 points together will spin a good starter.
Try that for a first step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
He has a wire that runs from the solenoid into the car,and it is spliced together,he took it apart and touched the wire that goes to the solenoid to the postive post of the battery and got the engine to spin over,but thats it,no power nowhere else...do these cars have a horn relay like our older cars? yes,his starter has 2 terminals,I don't know which is which,but he is using the one closest to his headers,so that would be on the outside of the starter,away from the motor...why would the car fire when you let off the key,Is something bassackwards?

[This message has been edited by Rapid Robert (edited 11-16-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Rapid Robert (edited 11-16-2001).]
 

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I'm going to wag after this. Don't have a 75 T/A book but all these are similar.

There should be a large gage red wire that leads up to the bulkhead connectors under the brake booster. I think it heads into the inside connector. There also should be a smaller red wire coming out to the HEI. That's the wrong one. Some cars have a block that the red wire ties to around the brake booster. This wire also ties to the alternator. Anyway the wire needs to be 12 volts. There are fusible links in the line somewhere between the battery and the firewall. This is the wire that powers everything in the car.
Maybe a bad link since everything is down.
 

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It may be firing after you let off the key because the HEI is not getting power in the START position on the ignition switch. It may be only getting 12 volts in the RUN position. That is, when you release the key is the only time 12 volts is on the red HEI wire. A guess to check out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks John, I will have to check it out tomorrow,actually I hope he found it tonight,after I left
...he has so many wires under the hood,,it looks like spaghetti,,,his painless fuse box under the hood,nitrous lines for nitrous contoller,MSD box,fuel pump wires,pressure switches for this,and for that,it just baffles us,that we had it started,then poof, no power no where,,,,have to check the fusible links I guess...thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
update::: he ran a jumper last night from the battery to the terminal on the steering column and voila! he has juice everywhere,so he pulled down the fuse block and can't find a short,burnt wires or anything...any ideas,he is thinking of running a hot wire off his painless fuse block under the hood through the firewall to that terminal on the steering column,I know its not right,but we can't find the bad wire,do you think it will work okay? the hot wire will be coming off of a 30 amp circuit breaker....I hate troubleshooting electrical problems
 

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I'm going to guess that the "terminal on the steering column" is the red wire on the ignition switch. That would make the most sense. If you lost power to the main fuse box, tapping in off the add-on Painless box puts power back to the original box. Same thing as bypassing the original red power wire, in the bulkhead connector, I mentioned last night.
The fix is simpler that running a wire. The problem is under the hood. I just don't know where the fusible links are on the T/A. I can only assume that there is a junction block under the hood somewhere with a few red wires attached to it. Off this junction block there is a red wire that goes to the bulkhead connector. In this line there should be a link that opened.
Will your jumper idea work. Yes. Is it the right way to fix it. I can only say no.
 
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