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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like many of you, I have been fighting a driveline vibration problem in my GTO for a very long time. After tackling every possible component, I have finally had it. Check out the post #305 of my build thread:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216205&page=21

I realize that this solution might be somewhat overkill, but I am done dealing with it. It's certainly not required for everyone, but if all else has failed, it might be worth thinking outside the box, like I have. I have my fire retardant suit on, so all flames are welcome. :D

Andrew
 

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I too have been battling the 60+mph shimmy since the tko install in my lowered 68 chevelle. I've read up some on the usage of a cv type joint on the driveshaft used on various 4 wheeler-----I'll be following this very closely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I too have been battling the 60+mph shimmy since the tko install in my lowered 68 chevelle. I've read up some on the usage of a cv type joint on the driveshaft used on various 4 wheeler-----I'll be following this very closely.
I have a feeling that you are not the only one. The vibration in a-bodies is our "dirty little secret."

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Andrew,

Great job on the driveshaft.

Did you get your ROD 6 speed back from Richmond?
Hey Jody. Richmond has my transmission now. They received it on Tuesday and told me it would be about a two week turn around time. If this doesn't fix it, I am selling the car..LOL

Andrew
 

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I keep posting in many of these threads that I have run a CF driveshaft for years. It took care of all the vibration issues I had but you still needed to take care of the drive angle issue first.

High rear end ratios (3.73, 4.11) with overdrive trannys is what have made these issues come up.

With the addition of the CV joint I believe you may have taken the angles out of the equation for "reasonable alignment" of the tranny and rear end.

If this works it would be a good new product for some one to sell. Build enough of them and the price will go down.

My CF shaft was about $800 some 5 years ago now. Another 200 for the CV joint and I wouldn't complain.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I keep posting in many of these threads that I have run a CF driveshaft for years. It took care of all the vibration issues I had but you still needed to take care of the drive angle issue first.

High rear end ratios (3.73, 4.11) with overdrive trannys is what have made these issues come up.

With the addition of the CV joint I believe you may have taken the angles out of the equation for "reasonable alignment" of the tranny and rear end.

If this works it would be a good new product for some one to sell. Build enough of them and the price will go down.

My CF shaft was about $800 some 5 years ago now. Another 200 for the CV joint and I wouldn't complain.

Ron
Ron,

You have made some excellent points. A carbon fiber driveshaft alone should result in much smoother operation provided that the angles are right. By "right," I don't just mean aligned front and back, but also not too large. Mark Williams has an excellent service bulletin here:

http://www.markwilliams.com/servicebull/sb0049.pdf

You can see that there are two factors to consider: critical speed and working angles. While most of us don't consistantly race our cars so the critical speed may not be a huge issue, the working angles are a concern.

Take for instance a combination that is not so uncommon; 4.10 gears, overdrive transmission, and a 285/40-17 tire, which is 26" tall. A 4000 RPM driveshaft speed is reached between 75 and 77MPH!!! Now look at the chart on the Mark Williams service bulletin. At 4000 RPM driveshaft speed the maximum recommended working angle is only 2.75 degrees.

I don't consider my setup to be that unique. I am using standard engine frame stands and engine mounts. My transmission is only slightly longer than a Muncie and is certainly more compact than a TKO or a T56. My transmission tunnel is mostly stock with the exception of extra room for the shifter linkage. My car is lowered some, but really not as much as some others. The more the car is lowered in the rear, the more severe the issue becomes. In order to get the working angles below 2.75 degrees, the rear of the transmission has to be raised. The lowest working angle I was able to achieve was 2.5 degree before the slip yoke started to make contact with the top of the driveshaft tunnel. So for cars that are not lowered, the working angle issue is not a concern. But for many that want a lower stance, angles become a critical factor to consider.

I said before that what I am doing is probably overkill. As Ron has stated, I probably could have just had a CF shaft made and it would have been fine. But given the time and energy that I have expended dealing with this issue, I wasn't about to take any chances. I wanted a solution that would address both the angle issue and have the added benefit of damping the driveline.

Adding a CV to the front require some custom machine work. There isn't a yoke that is currently manufactured that will allow the CV to be bolted to it and work with a 32 spline GM output shaft. So part of making this shaft includes the modification of a Spicer yoke so it will accommodate the CV. The cost of doing the modification and the CV itself adds an extra $450 to the cost of the CF shaft. DSS sells regular CF shafts for around $1000. I feel that they have done their research on the challenges involved in making a CF shaft, thus I am comfortable with their process. Here are some more details about what makes their CF driveshafts different from others:

http://driveshaftshop.com/blog/?p=546

My configuration represents the extreme in cost. If working angles are a problem, a CV shaft with an aluminum tube may be just as effective. If the angles are right, but there is still a vibration, a conventional shaft with a CF tube may do the trick.

Andrew
 

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Andrew, the other issue (I did consider a CV joint as you have) is the diameter of the CV being an interference fit with the tunnel.

Did you look at that?

Also, if your body mounts are in poor condition you will not have much room for the CV joint and the tranny may hit the tunnel at the rear..

And oh yes, the critical speed issue is not just about the driveline destroying itself at resonance; it is about the vibration that the driveline can generate well before the resonant point!

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Andrew, the other issue (I did consider a CV joint as you have) is the diameter of the CV being an interference fit with the tunnel.

Did you look at that?

Also, if your body mounts are in poor condition you will not have much room for the CV joint and the tranny may hit the tunnel at the rear..

And oh yes, the critical speed issue is not just about the driveline destroying itself at resonance; it is about the vibration that the driveline can generate well before the resonant point!

Ron
Ron,

I did think about the larger diameter of the CV perhaps being an issue. The CV that will be used is 108mm O.D., which is about 4.25 inches. A 1350 u-joint has a cross dimension of 3.625, however, a slip yoke needs more room than that due to the design. I think a standard 1350 slip yoke and the CV need about the same space. The rear of my transmission is raised so high that the slip yoke barely clears the top of the trans tunnel. I can easily lower is .5-.75" if any extra room is needed.

I have new body mounts, so that should not be an issue. Others that have old mounts would have to take all that into account.

Andrew
 

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Andrew, at what speeds are you getting the vibration? My 69 has a vibration at 60-70 MPH, I have a 700R4 with a 3.08 rear, I am using factory control arms. The shafy was shortened for the 700R4, the original tranny was a Powerglide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Andrew, at what speeds are you getting the vibration? My 69 has a vibration at 60-70 MPH, I have a 700R4 with a 3.08 rear, I am using factory control arms. The shafy was shortened for the 700R4, the original tranny was a Powerglide.
My vibration happens at over 75 mph.

Is your car lowered? Your driveline angles might be off if the car is lowered. The longer transmission will also alter the driveline angles.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The first part of the driveline project arrived yesterday. The Mark Williams billet pinion yoke is a work of art. There are numerous machined surfaces that can be used to measure runout.





Andrew
 

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Andrew, I love this post! You're doing us all a favor in going through getting a state of the art drive line worked out.

Thanks for keeping up on the posts. I will be very interested in seeing how the CV joint fits..keep up with the pics too. I may want to do the same thing in conjunction with a change to an LS motor.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Andrew, I love this post! You're doing us all a favor in going through getting a state of the art drive line worked out.

Thanks for keeping up on the posts. I will be very interested in seeing how the CV joint fits..keep up with the pics too. I may want to do the same thing in conjunction with a change to an LS motor.

Ron
Thanks Ron. I hope that if this all works out that someone will start making slip yokes that already have the CV head engineered from the start. That style of yoke should be easier to manufacture than a traditional, u-joint style yoke. Maybe Mark Williams, Strange or another vendor will step to the plate and get this done. That should lower the overall cost of the driveshaft because no custom work will be required.

Andrew
 

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Old Caddys(late 60s,early 70s) came with a double carden 3R series "CV" and 400 trannies, that will fit all the 400 outputs,if you have floorboard room. Neapco makes a 400 slip yoke with a flat flange plate instead of u joint rings that might be easily machined to fit the BMW(?) type CV shown at the beginning.
Altho this setup should not be needed for drivelines w/angles less than 3*, it could be the answer for the perfectionist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Old Caddys(late 60s,early 70s) came with a double carden 3R series "CV" and 400 trannies, that will fit all the 400 outputs,if you have floorboard room. Neapco makes a 400 slip yoke with a flat flange plate instead of u joint rings that might be easily machined to fit the BMW(?) type CV shown at the beginning.
Altho this setup should not be needed for drivelines w/angles less than 3*, it could be the answer for the perfectionist.
Do you happen to know the part number for that yoke? I think the DSS was just going to start with a regular TH400 Spicer yoke. I concur that if the working angles are less than 3 degrees, it may be overkill. Although a lighter weight CF or even aluminum shaft would be desired.

Andrew
 

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I think the part number is N3-23-9162X or 9163X . I will verify Monday when I get back to my catalogs at work.
 
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