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Discussion Starter #1
Have you ever used an eclosed trailer? I am going to buy one soon for my 67. I think I
am going with a 7000lb GVW 20 foot Pace American.

I know my 16.5 foot car will fit in this trailer, but will it ride well? Will I be able to get the proper tie down strap angle?

What do you know about load balancing? Is it OK to load the trailer to its limit? The car weighs 3590 and the MAX limit on the trailer is 3820.

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Jameel Qazi
#'s 67 SS
 

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I don't think you would be happy with a 20 ft trailer. I had a 21 ft trailer years ago and put a '69 Corvette in it. It was too tight to suit me. Remember, you must get between the front of the car and the trailer, and lay down and get back up to attach/detach tie downs. In a space less than 2 ft it will be difficult. I think you'd be much happier with a 24 ft trailer. Also, the load capacity you're talking about is cutting it awfully close. If your '67 SS only weighs 3590 actual, it's a light one. Most are around 3700. Don't forget you'll probably put some tools, etc., in there too. My $.03 worth. von
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Von, this is exactly why I asked the question. I was looking hard a 24 footers with a 10K GVW. There are not many available in PHX right now and I need one before July 2.

My buddy has a 24ft trailer he says they are L O N G! Will the extra 4 feet make towing a pain?

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Jameel Qazi
#'s 67 SS
 

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I have a 1999 26 ft. V-nose Pace American with the Beaver Tail. This trailer was purchased for my snowmobiles but basically is a car trailer. I used it to trailer my car from shop to shop during the restoration process.

If you do get a trailer like this make sure your Truck is going to be able to pull it. I have a Dodge Ram Diesel and it knows the trailer is back there. This size trailer doesn't cost much more than the 20 ft. (less then $700). The nice thing about the V-nose is that it doesn't have the drag that a flat nose trailer has (mine also has a ramp so I can drive my sleds on the front). The load isn't really going to hurt the trailer they usually under rate the load. If you do get a steel trailer make sure you undercoat the sucker before you use it. Mine got chiped up and rusted pretty bad in its first year of use! If you have any more questions e-mail me at [email protected]

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Scott,
I'm using a 95 2500 suburban with a 454. It should handle it, although I'm not so sure about the gas milage. It could be really bad.

Good tip on the undercoat. What do you think about size? is 20 ft. Too short? My buddy at work says he wishes his 24ft ATV hauler/Camper was shorter because of the pulling hassle. Von thinks a 20ft will be tough to get in and out of? What's your spin?


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Jameel Qazi
#'s 67 SS
 
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I would recommend looking at the 10k GVW axles. Remember you trailer weight has to be first subtracted from the GVW. For example, a 20' Haulmark Elite II 7k gvw weighs 3560lbs. The payload capacity is rated at 3440lbs. A 20' 10k gvw Elite II weighs 3780lbs, and a payload capacity of 6220lbs.

Now your car may just be at the 7k's payload capacity, but what if you want to haul tools, spare parts, show display units, etc. You don't have any payload capacity left. I also believe that the 10k axles will add to the resale value at a later date. Something to consider. The cost is not that much more when you are already spending $6k and up.

BTW, when you buy your enclosed trailer, can I borrow it? LOL

Just my opinion for what it's worth
Todd G
Malibu Muscle
http://www.qis.net/~tgeisler

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Man, this makes me think of a picture I saw of TV Tommy Ivo's dragster hauler in the 60's... A glass-sided thing with two dragsters in it and a Corvette on top! Light cars, for sure, but three of them! It wasn't a trailer but more like a huge truck, with the dragsters side by side... the logistics of getting all that stuff in and on there along with the horrible mileage hurts to think about.

Sorry, this had nothing to do with the enclosed trailer, though I once saw a boat trailer collapse. Keep the springs in good shape.

Dave
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I can't even come close to owning an enclosed trailer. I have an open 16' that I sometimes haul my 56 Vette and my wife's 70 conv (no, not at the same time!). I can't imagine what it would be like with it enclosed and only a couple of feet up front to move around! My vote is with Von, and the V-nose would be great. My tow vehicle is a 76 Cutlass with a 455, Richmond 5sp and 2.41 posi. Set the cruise about 65 (it will tow faster but I don't like to) and it does great. If you are going to tow ANYTHING bigger than a bass boat, you really need 450+inches. Yes, a 350 will tow anything, but you need lower gears to maintain the torque and the 350 will wear out sooner.

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make sure to get the type of hitch with stabalizer bars. They mount on each side of the ball and bolt on to the 'A' frame of the trailer.They help a great deal with trailer sway left and right.I have an enclosed trailer that used to float around while driving.the bars made the trailer keep staight.felt safer too!
P.S. can you open the doors to get out of the car once its inside the trailer?

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JoeS
"67 Malibu"
 

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Maybe your buddy at work would let you borow his 24'-er to try out. The trailer dealer may let you do the same with the 20' also. At least to put the car in for a fit test.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good suggestions guys. None of the new trailers I looked at had these sway bars. Do these come on enclosed trailers? The hitch is welded in place to heavy steel beams (either 2 or 3) that come to a V point.

Can I add sway bars to this kind of set up? I have also heard of weight equalizing bars. Is this the same thing?

Unfortunately my buddies trailer is a camper/atv hauler custom job. It won't hold a big car.

I am going to call on a used 1998 Prolite 24ft V nose 10,000# right now!

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Jameel Qazi
#'s 67 SS
 

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Jameel, The equalizing hitch slips into the receiver on your tow vehicle. Brackets are bolted to the tongue of the trailer and spring bars attach between the them and the hitch. This system keeps the weight of the trailer from being all on the hitch. I would also suggest an anti sway bar. It hooks to about a 1" ball on the hitch and another bolted to the tongue of the trailer. I feel that this combination is the safest way to tow. Philip

[This message has been edited by 64elcamino (edited 06-09-99).]
 

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I aggree with Cunan! I also have a V front 24 ' US Cargo enclosed trailer. I have had it for 2 years now. It also has a door in the V front for unloading snowmobiles. I tow it with a 98 Chevy HD half ton 350 w/ 3:73 gears. Handles it very well. My car weighs 3900.As a matter of fact I trailered it to last years Chevellabration from Minnesota. I wouldn't have any thing less than a 24' Also look in to having what they call an escape door on the drivers side of the trailer. It really makes it easy to get out of the car when you are in the trailer. It is a factory option from the trailer manufacture. Wish I would have it in mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I did it guys. I bought a 24ft V nose prolite 10,200 pound fiberglass mega trailer. It so tall! Man, is it tall!

Its got 16" tires, a 1.5 inch thick fiberglass coated plywood deck, massive ramp door.

The only thing I'm worried about is the fiberglass body. Do they hold up? Just a little buyers remorse I guess.

The trailer is dirty inside because it was used for a dirt track racer. It has tire racks and stuff welded in which makes it look rough, but I think it will do. The owner says it only has about 400 miles on it though.

I paid $6400. What do you think? Also, don't the fender wells make it difficult to get in and out of the car?

Jameel

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Jameel Qazi
#'s 67 SS
 
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