Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part August's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 68 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have recently refreshed big block that won't run.Have tried 3 different fuel systems,2different ignitions, tried rotating distributor 180, removed timing cover to check marks,all with same result.Engine misfires like it's 180 out.Have rebuilt this engine several times with no issues.Would greatly appreciate any fresh ideas. Thank you
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,159 Posts
Sure you have plug wires on correct position on cap. It is easy to get them off by a position or two. If one of the wires is off by a position then they will all be off by a postion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stevep70

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,302 Posts
Vacuum advance moving the wire from the coil to the points back and forth, this eventually breaks a few strands off. The motor will still run but when you need a lot of current it can't get there. Replace the wire and pitch the vacuum advance and turn the initial up to 18-22..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I'd like to share my recent experience, It may help.I change out hydraulic lifters for solid lifters after I had 2 hydraulic ones collapse. I put everything back together and it kinda ran but it ran poorly. I thought I'd put the distributor in off one tooth. So, i took it apart and changed it one tooth and than it only backfired. I set the pointer at "0" on the crank ans looked at the number 1 cylinder position on the distributor and it pointed to the correct spot. I checked my plug wire firing order and figured out I had swapped the number 4 and number 6 wires. I switched them back and moved the distributor back one tooth and varoom it started right up and runs smoothly. never hurts to look at it with fresh eyes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'd like to share my recent experience, It may help.I change out hydraulic lifters for solid lifters after I had 2 hydraulic ones collapse. I put everything back together and it kinda ran but it ran poorly. I thought I'd put the distributor in off one tooth. So, i took it apart and changed it one tooth and than it only backfired. I set the pointer at "0" on the crank ans looked at the number 1 cylinder position on the distributor and it pointed to the correct spot. I checked my plug wire firing order and figured out I had swapped the number 4 and number 6 wires. I switched them back and moved the distributor back one tooth and varoom it started right up and runs smoothly. never hurts to look at it with fresh eyes.
Have a couple suggestions to try tomorrow.Have had distributor out countless times but will look fresh in morning.Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,668 Posts
Lets assume the valve adjustment is correct. lets assume you have power to the distributor/coil

Assume timing marks are spot on for the chain and gears.

I have seen spark plugs that looked clean that were flooded with fuel and developed some sort of clear resin insulated coating that kept them from firing.

Clean all the plugs is what I would do and make sure it is getting fuel.

Then try and fire it up. If it back fires or does not start I would not pull the distributor.
Just rotate the plug wires around on the cap 1 position clock wise.
Retry.
No start then rotate plug wires 1 more position and retry.
Once you do that 7 times you should have hit a spot where the car will fire up.
That eliminates the 1 tooth off deal for stabbing the distributor.

It is quicker to dance the plug wires around on the cap than it is to pull the distributor sometimes.
 
1 - 20 of 68 Posts
Top