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Discussion Starter #1
I Have a Holley Annihilator ignition. It worked fine. I did some work on car and removed starter. I put it back in and changed ignition switch since keys were lost. Now when i turn key off car just keeps on running. Would the wires on solinoid be backwards or could there be a problem with voltage regulator. Have old alternator with external regulator. Any help would be great. Thanks
 

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I believe if you go to the trouble shooting forum, you'll find the answer to your problem.You could have disturbed a ground when you R&R'd the starter and now the ignition if feeding back through the system and keeping the car running.
 

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Possibility that if you have an old contact points regulator that this could be cause. Maybe try a Wells solid state relay (Part Number VR715?)
 

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The problem is with your ignition switch, not the starter. You said you replaced it; go back and check how you wired it. Bet you find the ignition lead attached to an "Accy" or "Bat" terminal (a terminal always "hot"), instead of the ignition terminal.

Another possibility is a defective key switch. I know, it's new, but that doesn't mean it's a good part. Check it with an ohmmeter. There should be NO CONTINUITY between the ignition terminal and the B+ terminal when the key is in the "off" position.
 

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I have the same problem. I just installed a Crane points conversion, coil and HI-6 box. The car started great but then wouldn't shut off. We pulled the plug to the ignition box and it shut off. I then parked the car, set the E-brake, and tried it again only this time it worked fine. I drove home, turned the key and the engine kept running so I set the E-brake to check under the hood but the engine stopped. If the E-brake is set the engine works fine if not it keeps running. Any ideas?
 

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67Wagon
Couple of thoughts that may sound as strange as your problem.
You say that the engine will shut off every time you use the ebrake. Correct?
Try it again but this time before you start the car, remove the GEN light bulb under the dash. Does this help? Guessing your ebrake trick no longer works.
 

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John I'll try that. The E-brake shuts the engine off after the key is off. If the key is on the E-brake does nothing.
 

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67Wagon
If removing the GEN light screws things up for you: That is, if your ebrake trick doesn't work anymore.
Do you still have the old style points regulator? If so, sort of need a favor from you. Screw in a solid state Wells VR715 regulator with the original ground strap. About $11.00 at Auto Zone. Let me know if that does the trick. If it doesn't fix the problem, and money is a problem, and you don't want it, send it to me and I'll pay for it.
 

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John, I pulled the GEN light and the ignition system is working properly now. What does this mean?
What does the GEN light have to do with the E-brake?
What needs to be done to get it right?

I no longer have the points, I converted it to the Crane Optical trigger system.

Thanks for your help.

Kevin
 

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Your points or optical system aren't the problem. Still betting you have a mechanical voltage regulator in your car. I suggested above to buy a Wells solid state regulator and put it in with the ground strap attached. Even went so far as to offer to buy it off you. Really just trying to prove something to myself and getting you to help me.
You have not fixed the problem. It has only been isolated. Got a schematic?? Great tool to have. Need one to follow along.
The brown wire going to the GEN light is being held high. (12volts) Keeps the alternator working so the car doesn't shut off.
Voltage is going through the filament of the GEN lamp to the pink wire on the other side of it. This pink wire is 12 volts when the car is on but when the key is off it should be nothing. But because of the brown wire being high, there is some voltage here. The brake light is also tied to the pink wire and voltage is going through it's filament. The other side of the brake lamp is just hanging there until you push in the ebrake. Not enough current to light the brake lamp, so voltage drops, all the way back to the brown wire, and shuts off the car.
You have not fixed the problem. It will come back acting a little different next time. Put the GEN lamp back in and change out the regulator to a Wells unit.
John

[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 05-10-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well i found the problem. First of all my connections to the vr were rusted so i cleaned them up. If you would unplug the VR it would shut off. So i changed the VR to the solid state one (VR715) because the old one was putting out around 17 volts. Every thing works fine now. Putting out about 14.8 volts at 2500 RPM.
 
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