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engine test stand wiring diagram?

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I plan on building an engine test stand for my 396 mainly out of 2"x2"x3/16 squard tubing.I need a wiring diagram for it.I plan on using:
1)3 wire alternator
2)standard coil
3)regular 7 blade fan (w/ shroud)
4)tach
5)standard starter
I will be using a machanical oil pressure gauge,water temp gauge also.
Any other items needed such as a voltage regular,relay(s)?
What type of starter switch and where to get it?
I already have the battery cables.
Please include the wire gauge sizes for each item. Thanks
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Anybody?
:confused:
I come across this posted on another site. Wiring in the alternator really isn't necessary for a run stand. A ballast resistor could be added to the coil power wire but isn't mandatory for the short time it will be on the run stand.

To wire it up....

1) Battery cable from + on battery to big post on starter.
2) Battery cable from - on battery to engine block, and test stand
3) 10 ga, Wire From back of alt. to battery
4) plug on alt. 2 wires, 1 goes back to the back of alt, other goes to battery but add a 47-50 ohm resistor in line the wire before battery.
5) wire from big post on starter to push button
wire from little post towards oil pan on starter to other side of push button.
6) wire from coil "+" post to toggel switch
7) wire from other side of toggel switch to battery
8) green wire on tach to "-" coil post
9) black wire on tach to battery ground to test stand frame
10) tach's other wires to the "non powered" side of toggel switch
11) volt gauge red wire to "non powered" side to toggel switch
10) volt gauge black wire to frame of test stand, battery - or engine block

Wired up like that.. You flip your toggel switch which will power up your dist, gauges, etc, push the start button to turn starter over and fire engine. To shut the engine off you just flip your toggle switch
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I come across this posted on another site. Wiring in the alternator really isn't necessary for a run stand. A ballast resistor could be added to the coil power wire but isn't mandatory for the short time it will be on the run stand.

To wire it up....

1) Battery cable from + on battery to big post on starter.
2) Battery cable from - on battery to engine block, and test stand
3) 10 ga, Wire From back of alt. to battery
4) plug on alt. 2 wires, 1 goes back to the back of alt, other goes to battery but add a 47-50 ohm resistor in line the wire before battery.
5) wire from big post on starter to push button
wire from little post towards oil pan on starter to other side of push button.
6) wire from coil "+" post to toggel switch
7) wire from other side of toggel switch to battery
8) green wire on tach to "-" coil post
9) black wire on tach to battery ground to test stand frame
10) tach's other wires to the "non powered" side of toggel switch
11) volt gauge red wire to "non powered" side to toggel switch
10) volt gauge black wire to frame of test stand, battery - or engine block

Wired up like that.. You flip your toggel switch which will power up your dist, gauges, etc, push the start button to turn starter over and fire engine. To shut the engine off you just flip your toggle switch
When you say the 2 wires on the back of the alt(#4).Sounds like you are saying that one goes to ground to the back of the alt.And the other wire goes to the battery w/ the resistor?Which one goes to the battery?(looking at the back of the alt. with the 2 wires at the top),
It would depend which alternator your using. Here is the Delco with internal regulator.

http://www.hartin.com/alt.htm

For a run stand it really isn't necessary to wire in the alternator. A good battery will supply enough power for pretty much everything you want to do.

I used an electric water pump drive and fan without a need for an alternator.

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