I have been wanting to build a run stand.Posted a couple weeks ago and got a lot of good ideas.I was thinking it would be nice to have the engine up of the floor to be more comfortable and since the engine would already be on the stand why not make it so I can add a piece to my heavy duty 4 wheel stand.These pics are just mock up with wood than I can have something welded.I utilize factory engine mounts I had from a truck,then the 2x4 @steel could be drilled for thru bolt.On the bottom I was thinking of using a piece of u shaped steel to straddle the middle of my stand with a 1/2 or so thru bolt there as well.(all three pieces welded together)I actually think it will be plenty beefy,what do you think?Also someone commented last time there really isnt much stress on the mounting locations ,just supporting the weight.But yet when you rev engine in a car in neutral it still lifts and torques?
Engine run stand update
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I had been thinking about doing something just like your setup. But I would make the front wider though. Space the wheels farther apart, just like the rear ones. A upgrade to bigger wheels would also help.
Nice job so far...:thumbsup:
I have a lot of ideas,I have an old rad suppot that I want to use as a seperate piece in front for rad,battery and a place for switches and gauges.Any pictures of something simmilar to what I have in mind would be appreciated,Thanks:beers:
I like your idea of a remote stand with rad battery etc on. Would help to keep the bulk of the unit down. Just roll out the stand when needed. Kool idea..
Typically a run up stand has a much larger foot print and weighs a lot more for stability. A big block dressed is as much as most engine stands want as is. I think you would be lucky with being close to the max weight of the stand and the engine torque that it will buckle right where you mounted the motor mount supports. Even if it doesn't if you rev it, it will flip. The chances of getting hurt are high not including tearing up some stuff. Even if you just let it idle I think you will be playing on the razors edge. I would seriously rethink your strategy here. A good run up stand will be around 4' X 6' with heavy wall tubing which is for a good reason.:yes:
This is why I made my comment about making the front much wider.
Maybe a set of wider trainer wheels on the back side aswell...lol
Maybe just easier to built a new brake in stand...
That was me. No there is no real torque being exerted on the stand because there is no connection between the crank and something resisting rotation,,,,,like the fluid in a torque converter and tranny guts. The movement of the engine in a car is from very minimal torque flexing the rubber mounts(solid mounts negate this and you can manually shove the suspension further than the engine moves the body), the movement of an engine on a non-load type stand is from accelerating the rotating/reciprocating masses(which is torque but oh so minimal....you can counter it by hand running them in a tire and I have done so).
Your use of engine mounts is a good idea. I did that on my modified irrigation engine stand. Just get you some 2" square tubing and drill a 1/2" hole in it. On your deal I would run some 2" from front axle to rear axle on each side, then go straight vertical with the 2" to the engine mount. The way it feels in my head, although there is no torque there will be a multiplier(wrong word can't think) on the acceleration due to the height of the center of gravity that bringing those front mounts inward to the center would aggravate, vs going straight vertical would counter the acceleration easily. otoh your inverted A may well handle it. If I can remember I will run one with your inverted A design someday, with a hoist connected in case. And damn that gave me a brainstorm, moor a dial type torque wrench to earth with the engine raised and running, conjure a mess for the reaction to focus on the torque wrench and gig the bastrd. lmao, that is about 6,492 down the list of experiments I want to do.
I keep all mine down low, never gave it any thought. Except I work on huge junk that is taller than 2 guys and bending over and/or squatting makes my backwards back feel better.
I have also run them on GM crate engine wooden crates. And read a dude in The Netherlands ran one swinging on a chain hoist. There is no torque, just mass accelerating, gravity, vibration.
If you want to continue the inverted A design, with square tubing, all you need to do is use a long ass bolt to go thru your longitudinal beam that connects your front/rear axles and bolt the tubing to the side of that beam. Getting the angles right may suck. If it all went to hell on you, the pieces would be long enough to whack off for redesign on a straight vertical scheme.
My little $30 summit stand has a footprint not much wider nor longer than an engine block, but has no rubber mounts and a low center of gravity. Rap em up to you hearts content, just wiggles a tad.
Imagine if you did that with a Rat......It might chase you around the floor a little bit........l
He wouldn't make my brightest of 2009 top 10.......
watch that Corvette engine video, see how it flops around as it starts. I fired up a 406 on a stand recently, it got pretty shakey a couple times. I won't be doing that again. And it's a good stand too. engine had a flywheel instead of a flexplate, I think the momentum or stored energy of the flywheel had to do with the where the engine stand got up on 2 wheels.
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Simple radiator 'n' gauges cart. Gauge panel hinges and the cart "feet" swivel so it folds up fairly flat for storage. Hang it on the wall. There are two casters on the back so it rolls easily. ANY engine that can be bolted to a standard engine stand can be accommodated--Chevy, Olds, Pontiac, Ford, Chrysler, imports--you name it.
Frame is exhaust tubing. Had the exhaust shop put bends in the legs. The rest is angle iron and scrap parts from here 'n' there.
Gauges are tach, oil pressure, vacuum, temperature, and battery voltage. I plumbed-in an oil pressure switch to drive an "idiot light"; and there's a pilot light for battery on, ignition on (and a covered switch to turn it off) and a couple of extra warning lights that aren't connected...yet. I have two leads for ignition, one battery voltage for HEI and another running through a built-in ballast resistor if I need to run points. It has a starter button from some unknown application--it was originally mounted to the floorboards and activated like the headlight dimmer switch in older GM cars.
Currently holding a Pontiac 455. When I ran my Olds 455, (FOUR hours!) I just let it hang from the engine stand. This time I decided to hold the front of the engine with a chain from my engine hoist. It was a lot more stable that way.
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The fan doesn't do a lot of good, (too far away, no shroud) but it's better than nothing. I always have a garden hose handy to mist the radiator if the engine gets too warm. I use about three and a half gallons of tap water and $5 worth of water pump lube (water-soluble oil sold as "cooling system corrosion inhibitor".) The coolant is saved from engine build to engine build in sealed gallon jugs. Since spills are almost all water--it's cheap, and easy to clean up.
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Cheap scrap exhaust system and flex-pipe for a semi-universal connection to various engines. Most of the fumes go outside, and the engine is quiet enough so that I could hear mechanical problems like lifter tick or fuel pump knocking.
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Frame is exhaust tubing. Had the exhaust shop put bends in the legs. The rest is angle iron and scrap parts from here 'n' there.
Gauges are tach, oil pressure, vacuum, temperature, and battery voltage. I plumbed-in an oil pressure switch to drive an "idiot light"; and there's a pilot light for battery on, ignition on (and a covered switch to turn it off) and a couple of extra warning lights that aren't connected...yet. I have two leads for ignition, one battery voltage for HEI and another running through a built-in ballast resistor if I need to run points. It has a starter button from some unknown application--it was originally mounted to the floorboards and activated like the headlight dimmer switch in older GM cars.
Currently holding a Pontiac 455. When I ran my Olds 455, (FOUR hours!) I just let it hang from the engine stand. This time I decided to hold the front of the engine with a chain from my engine hoist. It was a lot more stable that way.
The fan doesn't do a lot of good, (too far away, no shroud) but it's better than nothing. I always have a garden hose handy to mist the radiator if the engine gets too warm. I use about three and a half gallons of tap water and $5 worth of water pump lube (water-soluble oil sold as "cooling system corrosion inhibitor".) The coolant is saved from engine build to engine build in sealed gallon jugs. Since spills are almost all water--it's cheap, and easy to clean up.
Cheap scrap exhaust system and flex-pipe for a semi-universal connection to various engines. Most of the fumes go outside, and the engine is quiet enough so that I could hear mechanical problems like lifter tick or fuel pump knocking.
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