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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My engine was rebuilt 5 years ago and I have not been priming/turning it over regularly. I'm hooking up the final components; gas tank, radiator, water pump and would like to fire it up in a couple of weeks. Are there certain problems I'm gonna have because it's sat there for years? I've read some of the recommendations for priming, using marvel in the plug holes, etc.... What other things should I be on top of? Are my gaskets going to be a problem.
Thanks - Duff.....
 

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IF (big IF) it was rebuilt properly to begin with;
IF the cylinders and bearing journals, etc. haven't rusted;
IF you prime the oiling system before cranking;
IF you have the ignition timing close to where it needs to be;
IF you have the carb adjusted close to where it needs to be, and primed with fuel;
IF you have the lifter preload/lash where it needs to be; then

You should be fine. Fire it up, break in the cam.
 

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IF (big IF) it was rebuilt properly to begin with;
IF the cylinders and bearing journals, etc. haven't rusted;
IF you prime the oiling system before cranking;
IF you have the ignition timing close to where it needs to be;
IF you have the carb adjusted close to where it needs to be;
IF you have the lifter preload/lash where it needs to be, then

You should be fine. Fire it up, break in the cam.
You forgot If you drink alot of beer it might fire up..:D:beers:
 

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I'am not a engine expert and I'm not sure what motor your dealing with but it might pay to pull the intake and install some cam lube. Might just be me being paroniod cause I wiped out a cam before. Good luck, hope all is well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
396 just freshened up a little; was previously 30 over with no more "over" added. Sounds like I need to prime & lube everything good.... Will rust be an issue once I prime/lube everything and start up? It will burn off won't it???? The rust that is??? Thanks...
 

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Put a little oil in each cylinder and let it sit for a bit. Then try to slowly turn the engine over by hand. This will help break loose the rings, coat the cylinder walls, and aid in sealing the rings for initial start-up compression. Very good idea to prime the engine as mentioned.

HTH,
Durand
 

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396 just freshened up a little; was previously 30 over with no more "over" added. Sounds like I need to prime & lube everything good.... Will rust be an issue once I prime/lube everything and start up? It will burn off won't it???? The rust that is??? Thanks...
Rust is abrasive. How much abrasive matter do you want in your engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I agree Schurkey, BUT how will I know how much rust is inside?? I'd prefer none, but want to take as many precautions as possible. What are you suggesting??????
 

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I agree Schurkey, BUT how will I know how much rust is inside?? I'd prefer none, but want to take as many precautions as possible. What are you suggesting??????
Take it apart and inspect it is the only 100% way that you will know its ready to fire up with out scouring up the pistons and walls.:yes:
 

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I agree Schurkey, BUT how will I know how much rust is inside?? I'd prefer none, but want to take as many precautions as possible. What are you suggesting??????
I would A) get a small light to feed into the spark plug holes, LOOK at the cylinder walls--particularly of the cylinders that had either of the valves open; and if that's OK, then move to B) turn the engine with a long breaker bar, and feel for roughness. Depending on how "tight" the engine is, the torque required to turn it could vary considerably--but--if it's ROUGH, you've likely got rusted cylinder walls.

If you SEE rust, or if the long block turns over roughly, the heads come off and you're into exploratory surgery.
 

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Right or wrong, on an engine that's sat I take a squeeze bottle with some MMO and spray thru the plug holes to get the far cylinder wall. At least that way the entire ring has been lubricated. Good Luck!!
 
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