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Mike,
I know this has been discussed a milllion times, but personally there is no way I would use one of those plates to install an engine by itself, never mind an engine and trans. My concern is not with the 4 bolts, but with the amount of weight you are placing on the intake manifold itself. I can't believe that an aluminum intake does not flex some when you do this.

Just my opinion,
 

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I don't know that I would do both and engine and trans together, but I have done a big block before, without issue using a plate. Grade 8 bolts are a good idea.

Andrew
 

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Mike,
I know this has been discussed a milllion times, but personally there is no way I would use one of those plates to install an engine by itself, never mind an engine and trans. My concern is not with the 4 bolts, but with the amount of weight you are placing on the intake manifold itself. I can't believe that an aluminum intake does not flex some when you do this.

Just my opinion,
X2

Just like anything else, it can be done, you may get buy with it, but is your new motor, tranny, chassis, car, etc. worth it if the bolts strip out of that intake, and your engine/tranny go crashing into the car?
 

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I have and seen them used fine many times, but I like the load leveler. Just make sure you get a good one with a removable crank, or one that you can modify it, especially if you plan on stabbing it in with the trans hooked up. After you adjust it to an extreme angle, it's hard to turn the crank because it can sometimes hit the boom, and you can't swing the hoist or engine enough to get it out of it's own way.
 

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What Bill said makes sense. Seems to me that if the manifold does distort it could create those elusive vacuum leaks on the intake valley side.
 

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I saw a magazine article about this very subject. May have been CHP or something along those lines.
The magazine used a basic lift plate..nothing fancy or billet. A Performer intake ( could have been Holly) but it was aluminum and grade 8 bolts. They had the intake bolted to something static.
The lift plate began to flex... I said flex 'only'... at around 4000lbs. I believe the lift plate failed somehwere near 3 tons. It was quite amazing.
Look it up, its out there somewhere.
 

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I saw a magazine article about this very subject. May have been CHP or something along those lines.
The magazine used a basic lift plate..nothing fancy or billet. A Performer intake ( could have been Holly) but it was aluminum and grade 8 bolts. They had the intake bolted to something static.
The lift plate began to flex... I said flex 'only'... at around 4000lbs. I believe the lift plate failed somehwere near 3 tons. It was quite amazing.
Look it up, its out there somewhere.
=
Absolutely correct in my opinion.
Been down this road before but consider that one 5/16" grade 5 bolt will pick up your whole car,,,
And you are picking up what,, 850-give or take with the trans attached with 4 of them
Where does the problem lie?
Do we also not remove any engine with aluminum heads?

In 40+ years of doing this I have never, not once seen or heard of the intake or plate failing assuming you are not using bolts that are into the intake by two or three threads.

I have heard of cherry pickers failing, chains breaking, cables snapping, the pin or bolt holding the hook which is in shear not tension failing.
But never, not once of these plates failing given just a little bit of common sense in using it like bolts that are at least double the diameter in length into the aluminum

Consider this, no one thinks twice about using a chain with 50 welded links to pick up an engine,,,
Why would you worry about 4 bolts into aluminum which has a yield strength of about 5000lbs /sq in & tensile of about 30,000 ;)

I do not consider the lift plate as something to put on my list of things to worry about when I lift an engine
I would worry more about the hook or pin which is in shear that is attached to it if you need something to concern yourself with
 

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=
Absolutely correct in my opinion.
Been down this road before but consider that one 5/16" grade 5 bolt will pick up your whole car,,,
And you are picking up what,, 850-give or take with the trans attached with 4 of them
Where does the problem lie?
Do we also not remove any engine with aluminum heads?

In 40+ years of doing this I have never, not once seen or heard of the intake or plate failing assuming you are not using bolts that are into the intake by two or three threads.

I have heard of cherry pickers failing, chains breaking, cables snapping, the pin or bolt holding the hook which is in shear not tension failing.
But never, not once of these plates failing given just a little bit of common sense in using it like bolts that are at least double the diameter in length into the aluminum

Consider this, no one thinks twice about using a chain with 50 welded links to pick up an engine,,,
Why would you worry about 4 bolts into aluminum which has a yield strength of about 5000lbs /sq in & tensile of about 30,000 ;)

I do not consider the lift plate as something to put on my list of things to worry about when I lift an engine
I would worry more about the hook or pin which is in shear that is attached to it if you need something to concern yourself with
So what are ya worried about, it's been said many times.
 

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I saw a magazine article about this very subject. May have been CHP or something along those lines.
The magazine used a basic lift plate..nothing fancy or billet. A Performer intake ( could have been Holly) but it was aluminum and grade 8 bolts. They had the intake bolted to something static.
The lift plate began to flex... I said flex 'only'... at around 4000lbs. I believe the lift plate failed somehwere near 3 tons. It was quite amazing.
Look it up, its out there somewhere.
Here's a link to a test of the Kaizen lift plate. It failed at about 8000#, way more than your engine hoist is rated for.

http://www.kaizen-ms.com/tech.html
 

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they make billet aluminum lift plates now- which is fastened to a heavy aluminum casting that can safely support the weight of a few cars without damage, which is held to the heads by a dozen 3/8" bolts that can each hold a couple of cars off the ground.
all the weight of the engine is concentrated on the tops of the holes where the chain from the engine hoist hooks up to it- a piece of steel or aluminum that is less than 1/4" thick. and you guys are getting all worked up over the strength of the bolts that hold it all together..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There is something called shock load or shock loading.
That worries me. Moving around on a uneven surface or a sudden downward movement.

This link submitted by onovakind67 also talks about a uneven pull.
http://www.kaizen-ms.com/tech.html

Well the intake is on the motor, so we will give it a go.
With the engine plate.
But with only grade 8 bolts..
 

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The grade of the bolts should be the least of your worries. The engine hoist will fold in half long before you even seriously test grade 2 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The grade of the bolts should be the least of your worries. The engine hoist will fold in half long before you even seriously test grade 2 bolts.
Well for piece of mind I got the grade 8 bolts. No problems at all with the lift.
Not even a small bit of flex to the plate.

Lifted both the motor and trans...
Always used a chain to lift with before. But I didn't like the idea of a chain on the new heads...:thumbsup:
 

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Did you think you'd get BS'ed here?:cool:
 

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I just bought one of these plates last week to install my new 468 engine. I spoke to ppl before i decided on it and was told it works better then a chain. I have seen ppl use it on new crate engines on TV. enough said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well you know. You hold that small plate in your big fat hands and those small bolts and you just :eek: have to ask those that have used it before...A man that thinks he knows it all is a fool...
 
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