[Budd311]

I just purchased a 1968 Chevelle SS 454. The previous owner has not driven the car much at all over the past 2 - 3 years.

After putting a new battery in the car fired up.

It ran great for the first two days, on the 3rd day it would crank but not fire.

Distributor cap did not appear to be getting spark, replaced coil. After a couple attempts, it fired up and sounded great. Ran for about 20 miles then died while cruising about 30MPH....

Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look at next? If you go to start it now, it will crank, it may fire sometime, but will not actually start.

A tune up is def in order, but would like to nail this issue as well.

Thanks!

 

[72ElCamino]

Is it a Breaker Points setup?

Reason I ask is there is a wire that runs up through the bottom of the distributor from the coil that connects to the points and a lot of times it wears through and grounds on the distrubutor, this making the spark cut out and the engine to cut out.

This happened for quite a while with my el camino until it finally stopped like yours. Id take a voltage meter and test the continuity between each end of that wire if this is the case.


Matt

 

[jhunt]

Along with the above, if it sat that long I would also check fuel filter.

 

[Budd311]

Is it a Breaker Points setup?

Reason I ask is there is a wire that runs up through the bottom of the distributor from the coil that connects to the points and a lot of times it wears through and grounds on the distrubutor, this making the spark cut out and the engine to cut out.

This happened for quite a while with my el camino until it finally stopped like yours. Id take a voltage meter and test the continuity between each end of that wire if this is the case.


Matt

Great suggestion - I will take a look at this after work. My guy tells me it is a short / something grounding it out. This makes a lot of sense. Thank you!

 

[Budd311]

Along with the above, if it sat that long I would also check fuel filter.

I have meaning to check this. I did switch out the fuel pump a couple days ago.

 

[The Old Reliable]

Age of gas tank? Sending unit? Fuel line? 43 years old?

With the havoc ethanol creates, all are probably overdue, especially after setting for so long. (Maybe carb also.)

Don't forget to install a nice drain plug (& a return line bung) in the new tank before putting it in!!

 

[Ethan1]

Along with the above, if it sat that long I would also check fuel filter.

Yeah, if the filter has never been changed, it could be full of junk. Especially, as the above poster said, the gas tank and line could be full of crud. Maybe need to change them out, too, if they are original.:yes:

 

[Budd311]

Along with the above, if it sat that long I would also check fuel filter.

I checked the fuel filter - and it is clean - surprisingly.

I am still going to drain the tank and fuel lines; check carb, etc.

Still need to check electrical/ignition.... this is what my gut is telling me is the problem.

 

[rwin1592]

You guys are all missing the fact that he needs to do a couple of very simple checks. Pour a little gas in the carb...will it fire?? If so it's a fuel issue....if not it's an electrcal issue. If it fires and dies, disconnect the fuel line from the carb, put the line into a can or bottle and crank it over...are you getting fuel that far?? If not keep working your way back to the fuel tank (filter, pump, lines, tank itself). If you're getting fuel to the carb but it won't fire (remember it fired when you poured gas into the carb) then the problem is in the carb....float or needle and seat stuck?? If it didn't run when you poured gas into the carb problem is electric. Pull the distributor cap and inspect the rotor, condition of the cap, etc. With one of those inexpensive test lights are you getting 12 volts to the plus side of the coil with the ignition switch on?? If not check your resistor (if equipped with one). Test both sides of the resistor...do you have voltage at both sides with the key on?? If no voltage to either side the wire from the switch or the ignition switch is suspect. Hot wire the car by running a jumper wire directly from the battery to the + side of the coil and try starting it. If you do have power to the distributor (test at the - side of the coil) and no spark your problem is in the distributor or points somewhere. Did a wire come loose, did your points (if equipped with points) ground out or loosen up?

My point is it's simple to determine if the problem is fuel or spark...it has to be one or the other...then continue to trouble shoot from there knowing what direction to head in!

Good luck. Let us know the outcome.

 

[Budd311]

You guys are all missing the fact that he needs to do a couple of very simple checks. Pour a little gas in the carb...will it fire?? If so it's a fuel issue....if not it's an electrcal issue. If it fires and dies, disconnect the fuel line from the carb, put the line into a can or bottle and crank it over...are you getting fuel that far?? If not keep working your way back to the fuel tank (filter, pump, lines, tank itself). If you're getting fuel to the carb but it won't fire (remember it fired when you poured gas into the carb) then the problem is in the carb....float or needle and seat stuck?? If it didn't run when you poured gas into the carb problem is electric. Pull the distributor cap and inspect the rotor, condition of the cap, etc. With one of those inexpensive test lights are you getting 12 volts to the plus side of the coil with the ignition switch on?? If not check your resistor (if equipped with one). Test both sides of the resistor...do you have voltage at both sides with the key on?? If no voltage to either side the wire from the switch or the ignition switch is suspect. Hot wire the car by running a jumper wire directly from the battery to the + side of the coil and try starting it. If you do have power to the distributor (test at the - side of the coil) and no spark your problem is in the distributor or points somewhere. Did a wire come loose, did your points (if equipped with points) ground out or loosen up?

My point is it's simple to determine if the problem is fuel or spark...it has to be one or the other...then continue to trouble shoot from there knowing what direction to head in!

Good luck. Let us know the outcome.

Sounds like a plan!!

I just got home from a 16 hour shift, excited to start working away to find out my battery is completely dead. Volt meter gave me a 3V reading.... Jesus.

Brand new $100 battery not even 1 week old - dead. So something drained it (my lights were not left on). Something tells me this is tied into the issue at hand...

Tomorrow is another day. I will keep you posted.

 

[karlmcgyverhaze]

I'm having a stalling issue with my 75' Malibu inline six, 250, mono carb. I'll be driving down the road, and it will stall, so I pull over, and can pump it and try starting but it won't pop over, but if I wait 10 minutes, it fires right up. This happens if it's warm, cold, rainy, dry, after driving for a while, driving for a little bit...

I don't know if this is related at all, but after sitting all winter, I started driving it for a month, then the temp light started coming on and off (doesn't matter if it's hot or cold), and flickering. I checked out the cooling system, and everything seems fine, and the coolant is full. Pretty sure it's just a temp sensor, but I haven't replaced it yet. I only brought this up because I'm not sure if there is a hot engine kill switch or something.

So back to the stalling. Last time the car stalled, I had a buddy crank it while i sprayed starting fluid in the carb, and it wouldn't pop over, so I'm pretty sure it's the ignition system. So i changed out the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. Well it sure does run better, but it still stalls. It almost seems like something is tripping, but this is where I know very little. Is there a breaker type component in the ignition system, or something that will cut the juice?

I've been at it for two weeks now, and I don't have a reliable vehicle. I'd bring it to the shop but I can't afford it. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thank you
Kyle

 

[Verle]

Kyle,

Your problem could be a failing coil.

 

[OLDED]

Double check the primary ground connections as well as the engine to firewall ground strap(s) to be sure of the system continuity. Also check the small starter wires for good connections and insulations - the starter feeds back lower voltage to the distributor in many set ups. FWIW

 

[karlmcgyverhaze]

@Verle, I replaced the coil, but it's still doing it.

@Olded, I'm going to check those connections right now. Hopefully I find some bad connections.

Thank you! Anymore pointers- send them my way. I'll try anything you throw at me.