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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I am installing a new 383 this next weekend and getting things ready. A few fairly easy questions I don't want to ef up I hope you can help:

1) Red Locktight on motor mount bolts that go in the engine block?
2) Red Locktight on Flexplate bolts?
3) Are Grade 8 Hardware store bolts ok for the 4" bolts that go through the motor mounts? I know factory has the easier to use snazzy rounded tip. Looks like a lot of washers on the 4" bolts. Does a flat washer go on first, then after install, then a lock washer? Link attached below - Id assume no loctite here if using all those washers? Couldn't hurt to add?

https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/C240961/

4) Please see photo, are these bolts long enough to go into the block? These have a low profile hex head too, but Im used to larger head bolts with more bite, feels safer? No big deal?

5) I need to replace the bolts for the factory motor mount as well. The one that bolts the frame, I believe it's 3 nuts and bolts per side. I don't know the correct size as mine came all wonky barely bolted on.
 

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The bolt in the pictures should be fine. Just tighten everything and yourbon to go. If your putting the long bolt in for the motor mounts without the fuel pump on. Make sure on the passenger side you put the nut in front so you can remove the motor with the fuel pump on the motor in the future. Jim
 

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Some stores carry grade 8,Lowes home center does.I wouldnt red loctite any motor mount bolts.
I use all grade 8 stuff with lockwashers,but I do use blue loctite on the flexplate or flywheel bolts.I also use arp for them.
That's why I said usually. I didn't want him going to a hardware store for bolts and assuming they are grade 8. But yes some do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. The Emigh/Ace Hardware store in town here has a huge selection of grade 8. I ordered all my parts from Summit and forgot the two 4" engine bolts.
I was contemplating just getting them locally. I just noticed the GM ones, and the ARP ones has a different amount of washers, just curious what the safe order for those 4" bolts would be.
I did use a good amount of loctite on my 454 I built years ago, mostly just the flywheel, and when I changed over to a flexplate. I may just order these and throw something else on the order for free shipping, always need something... whew.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-130-3105

Thanks for the tip about the fuel pump. I won't have one on when installing this week.
 

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JMHO, no need for red loctite on the bolts you mention, blue will be just fine!
 

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my preference is loctite quick tape 249 blue threadlocker ! after cleaning up the threads i take the time to wrap each bolt with the tape makes it so much easier , cleaner and professional ! the bolts can even be wrapped for a later use !
 

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If the General didn't use Lock-tite, I'm not either. I don't like it for street car purposes. You don't need all those grade 8 bolts, grade 5 at most and some grade 3, assuming SAE compliance. Will it hurt you to use that, just your wallet.:smile2:
 

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I don't use loctite on any of those parts. No reason to.

I used grade 3 on the motor and frame mounts when I had the 6 cylinder in the car, but went to 8 when I put the big block in. Probably overkill, but they weren't much money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When I had my 71' I swear to god every part I had fell off that car. Haha. It was cursed. I torqued everything too, the car was just out to get me. I'm taking my time on this one, doing everything as clean and nice as possible. Excited to get the engine installed. I have the front end removed and no trans yet, so it should be really easy.
 

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Are you missing all these bolts ? Are they stripped or damaged ? My best advice to someone who is removing and replacing his first engine is to take a lot of pictures,use ziplock bags marked with the location and part the bolt came off of and take a good look at what you're removing before you rip into it.There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the bolts you removed unless they are stripped or bent.
This is especially true with the starter bolts, which are special length and knurled bolts.
The motor mounts on the engine block are held on with 3 bolts that screw directly into the block itself.Then there is 1 long through bolt that holds the engine (&the motor mounts) to the frame mount brackets or stands.These frame mount brackets on the frame don't have to be removed, only the long thru bolt gets removed until the engine is on the engine stand (or the ground) and then with the engine out you can remove the motor mounts from the block and either transfer them to the new engine or install the new motor mounts.Either way I would use the old bolts unless they were stripped or damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Are you missing all these bolts ? Are they stripped or damaged ? My best advice to someone who is removing and replacing his first engine is to take a lot of pictures,use ziplock bags marked with the location and part the bolt came off of and take a good look at what you're removing before you rip into it.There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the bolts you removed unless they are stripped or bent.
This is especially true with the starter bolts, which are special length and knurled bolts.
The motor mounts on the engine block are held on with 3 bolts that screw directly into the block itself.Then there is 1 long through bolt that holds the engine (&the motor mounts) to the frame mount brackets or stands.These frame mount brackets on the frame don't have to be removed, only the long thru bolt gets removed until the engine is on the engine stand (or the ground) and then with the engine out you can remove the motor mounts from the block and either transfer them to the new engine or install the new motor mounts.Either way I would use the old bolts unless they were stripped or damaged.
The car was stripped to almost nothing when I got it. Nothing to reference on hand.
This sucker was steps away from being a parts car but I saw some potential and liked the price.
 

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When I say stripped in relation to an automotive bolt it means the threads are damaged and no longer usable not removed from the engine and no longer there.
Hey I just noticed your signature, I remember "feedphilipnow" from the TC earlier times.Good Luck with your new Chevelle !!!!!
 

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The only bolts I would use Loctite o , and that would be blue Loctite, are the flywheel. to crank bolts.

Probably not on a flexplate. I don't use it on any internal engine fastener, just torque as required.

Probably use Loctite on ring gear bolts.

Actually, I use anti sieze on most stuff. Especially water pump, accessory brackets, header bolts, lug nuts, etc.

Has proven very helpful for the next time it has to come apart.
 
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