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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I bought a 67 chevelle with a "454". Not sure on year or what the engine came out of. I have conflicting answers to what the engine actually is & what it came out of? The engine # on the block is 3999289. Also, if anyone knows what the horse power would be for this engine? I've done some research but it's kind of confusing to me, it could be this or it could be that. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated. Brian :confused:
 

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Think about it Brian....
The #289 block was from the early 1970s.....454.....widespread usage in cars, pick-ups, commercial vehicles, boats. Without the casting date and engine suffix code, hard for us to guess..... Also consider the early 1970s were 35 years ago......so who knows if the engine has never been rebuilt or if it is on its 2nd or third life.

Casting date for the block should be on the back flange where you got the 289 casting number...right on one of the lumps the trans bolts to. Look for a code something like H 12 72 or J 1 73. Build date and suffix are stamped on the pad, front of engine, passenger side of the block. Look for something like TO221 CLK (any three letters, the first will be a c for car or t for truck).

Get back to us with the numbers and we can at least tell you what the engine was originally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, thank you. I will post all info tomorrow. I asked a guy about the "H 72 12" type number but he said it was nothing, I know, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Hold your comments & thoughts until I get the numbers tomorrow, car is at a storage unit until my garage is built. I'll be picking her up tomorrow to do a few more things. Thanks, Brian
 

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FWIW, the #289 block is a very good casting
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
FWIW, the #289 block is a very good casting
Ok, what's good about it? What's the HP? I've researched it I've found it to be a truck or vette motor with 270 HP. I'm going to get the rest of the numbers tomorrow & post them here & the boys here can give me their info based on what I find. I'll post tomorrow. I appreciate very much any & all accurate information provided by all as this has been really bugging me. Brian :confused:
 

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The 289 casting block is a great block and normally has nice thick cylinder walls. Most are 71-74 as the 959 casting block appeared in late 74 and made up the majority of the blocks until the 5445 block appeared around 79. The cast material makeup of the 289 is genralyy better then the 959 and 5445 blocks and again, the cylinder walls generally are thicker.

If it has a steel crank and is a 4-bolt, it's a bonus. A 2-bolt will take a huge amount of abuse and will take more than most people will ever put to them.

For some reason the 1973 blocks, out of pick-ups, were all supposed to have steel cranks. Before and after was a hit and miss. The passenger cars were hit and miss (except the higher horse versions which all were steel cranks and 4-bolts) up to 73 then I don't think I've ever came across a steel crank in a passenger model and very few pick ups with them.
 

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Brian,

FRYNTYR has a machine shop and quite a bit of experience making things go fast. I was pleased to find a #289 block in one of my cars at purchase. Better metal, thicker bores generally that later castings.

They have low factory horsepower ratings with the change from gross (no accessories, headers) to net (with accessories and ext) for 1972, possibly 1973. 270 horse net does sound about right.

The (edit: early 70s and later) engines are only down on power because the cams were tiny...not race engines (and they took away some of the compression)!
Change a few things and they are terrors!

What shape is the engine in?
If it needs a rebuild, add some small domed pistons and a performance cam and kit....prepare to buy a bunch of new rear tires.
If the shortblock is fairly fresh, consider an early set of closed chamber cylinder heads to bump the CR up...and naturally, a performance cam and kit.
Another idea, if the engine is sound....just the cam and kit, stay fairly conservative with the duration...run UL Regular! Quite a few low 13 sec and better low compression 454s out there, a few mid 12s...454Regal's 1/4 mile passes last week was inspiring!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all that info FRYNTYR & kettbo. I'm going to contact the guy I bought the car from to see if he can give me the low down on exactly what he put in the car. The following is what the car has according to the person who built it. His name is Ross Stomp if anyone knows him, he's out of Michigan.

LIST IS AS FOLLOWS: 12 BOLT REAREND WITH 3.42 GEAR.HAS NEW RAD. HAS REBUILT 454 WITH ALUMINUM INTAKE, DUEL FEED 750 HOLLEY, PERFORMER CAM, HOOKER HEADERS WITH 2 1/2 INCH DUEL EXHAUST WITH FLOWMASTERS, WEIAND ALUMINUM INTAKE. That's all I know about the performance part of the engine.

The car is great. I haven't done any burnouts with it, kicked it down a few times & she get's up. Problem right now is I don't have a inspection sticker on it so I don't want to get too crazy. Police have nothing better to do than harass people around here so I'll wait until I'm legal.

The info I was able to gather today was only the Block Casting Number which I already provided (3999289 P). I did'nt see the P until I looked today., Not sure if it means anything. The other info I got was the Block Date Code which is D 8 73 or 78. Not clear. The builder said the motor came out of a 1973 truck so I assume it's a 73. The other number you wanted me to get is the Engine I.D. / V.I.N. code???? I believe I have to remove the alternator to see it, correct?? The picture that MIKE provided shows it in that area, I hope that's all I need to do & not remove a valve cover. Help me out on this one guys, I'll be tightening the alt belt tomorrow so it won't be that much more to get behind it. Let me know.... & thanks again. Brian
 

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You might see the Engine ID Number by looking down ,behind the alternator.
Probably need to remove some 38 years of built up crud.
Not too difficult to move the alternator out of the way ,and does make it easier to see.
 

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The P is of no significance
Yes, behind the alternator
There is also a pad above the top center of the timing cover, sometimes numbers are stamped there too. My 78 block is stamped there....
T0817 TRH
T Tonowanda, NY
08 Month
17 Day
TRH Trk C-30

On the back flange by the trans is H-10-77
cast Aug 10 77...just months after I graduated HS!!! What was I doing that summer? Think by then I had a job....

So your assembly day should most likely be a few days after your casting day of
D 8 73 April 8 73
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT THING I FORGOT TO MENTION IS THAT THE MOTOR WAS RECENTLY REBUILT. I don't know what else was done to it but will try to find out. Sorry for not mentioning that. Brian
 

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Yeah ,that'll make a difference.
Isn't going to matter much what it was so much as what it is ,unless you just want to know.
See if you can get the "after" info along with the current head numbers.
Yeah ,under the valve covers
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I finally got over to my car today & got the "Engine I.D. Number" which is: T0614TRK. Hopefully you can provide me with some info on this. I'd like to know where you get the information from, a website? a book? shop manual? Let me know that if you don't mind so I can figure out some other things & maybe help some others. Thank you in advance. Brian
 

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Brian don't be too depressed. Those numbers don't mean much on a rebuilt engine. They are just a starting or reference point of what the motor was stock. As you said the car has some get and go, it wasn't built to stock specs. I bet it is easily 350-450 hp if they put some decent heads on it to go with the performer cam and aftermarket intake. It may not be a 11-12 second ride, but it is sure nice looking and sounds great. A few tweaks here and there from advice you can get here on TC and she'll be running even better :) Nice car! Congratulations :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, I'll try not to be. Just there's one guy at the cruise nights I go to keeps busting nuts saying it's a junk motor. I know, I know, don't let anyone get to you but it's hard when you buy a car under false pretenses. I was told this was a motor out of a 72 vette & had no idea how to research it at the time. Like you said, it has been rebuilt with some good parts & I can tweak it here & there. I was even thinking about having it dyno'd just to see what it's got. I still may do it. Thanks for the support JWA, much appreciated. Brian :hurray:
 
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