[14u2nv68]

I called a big time trailer company up here today to order a new enclosed trailer. I told them I want a 24 foot enclosed trailer with the left side access door so I can open the door on my car.. They said I need to measure out were I want the door put in. I said, how do you tell. They said you have to know were you want the car in the trailer for a level ride and then measure from there. I said, can I come over and hook up to one of your trailers and put my Chevelle in it to know were I need the door, they said “no, just measure carefully”. So how am I suppose to know were to put the access door??? This does not make sense to me. :clonk::wacko: Does anyone know how I'm suppose to figure this one out or should I just take a guess. Yup... that looks right...:thumbsup:

 

[Andy's Auto Repair]

Here is a pic of Mike Merlo's (69CHVL)trailer that I just serviced so he can make the Ohio trip with his 69 Vert. I think this is what this door does as it lines up pretty good with the tie downs in the floor. I'll remind him to comment on this when he gets a minute.

 

[BillsCamino]

I've always noticed the access doors over the trailer wheel openings.

 

[crazydavey]

here's where it was on my old 24 Interstate...biggest problem is the height....you may have to build a ramp so the door will open above the wheel wells of the trailer...

 

[14u2nv68]

Any problem with them leaking? I know a guy that bought one out of Rapid City S.D. that has the swing out canopy doors and it leaks like a sieve.

 

[crazydavey]

mine didn't...

 

[67since67]

This is no place to guess or it will end up being useless, it sounds as if the builder is being less than helpful. When I ordered my trailer I drew up a floor plan and spent time taking measurements around a Chevelle, planning car placement and then measuring swing open sweep of the drivers door. Tongue weight and axle location are also to be considered here, along with location of D-rings in floor. I determined that a 5' door width was necessary to allow the car door to open fully. They fabricated drive on wheel chocks that I bolted to the floor to locate the car when loading and also lift the front wheels for car door to door sill clearance. They fabricated the escape door in house with proper seals and motor home style latch and lock units and it does not leak water and my trailer is a virtually dust free dry sealed environment, even when towing in pouring down rain.

Why do you need a 24 footer? Mine is a 20 footer with a 3 foot wedge nose, allows 2' gap to the rear ramp gate, free entry in front of car through the right side walk-in and plenty of room at the front to load a big block engine or what ever else you need to carry.

I will have my trailer out of the garage and unloaded next week, I could give you some pics and measurements if you don't have it figured out by then. If you are looking for aluminum construction, since you are in southern MN, I highly recommend Alum-Line in Cresco Iowa (next door to Featherlight).

Bill

 

[BACK FROM THE DEAD]

You would think that a trailer company worth their salt should be able to take the weight and wheelbase of your car, figure out the weight distribution for the trailer based on that and give you what you need themselves?

I'd ask around to some other manufactures who are more willing to be helpful.

 

[69SHEVL]

My door was installed recently after the fact. It had to be measured

carefully as there is little room for error.

These points should be considered:

Trailer hooked up to the tow vehicle, placement of the car on the specific

spot for tiedown, car door clearance on bottom.

X2 on Bill and Dave's points.

Measure twice, cut once!