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What he said....:thumbsup:

Here is what happens....

30 is constant hot from Battery
85 is ground
87 is open to device (fans)
86 is 12v trigger..

When 86 is energized (by the temp switch etc) it pulls the switch leg from 87A down to 87 and completes the circuit between 30 and 87. Just like your finger is the trigger to flip a light switch up or down. I don't mean to simplify it that way but that's an easy analogy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
What he said....:thumbsup:

Here is what happens....

30 is constant hot from Battery
85 is ground
87 is open to device (fans)
86 is 12v trigger..

When 86 is energized (by the temp switch etc) it pulls the switch leg from 87A down to 87 and completes the circuit between 30 and 87. Just like your finger is the trigger to flip a light switch up or down. I don't mean to simplify it that way but that's an easy analogy.
Do you want me to run a wire from the temperature switch to a 12v source?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
85/86 energize the coil to turn on the relay. +12 on one, ground on the other, one of them switched. It doesn't matter which is which for ground or +12.
So according to what you said in post #15 test for +12 at 85, then ground 86, relay should click and fans turn on.
I did that and the relay clicks, but fans don't turn on. Bad relay?
 

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Always connect ground to relay #85 terminal and power to #86.

Some relays have integrated suppression diodes across the coil.

Connecting things wrong can cause damage.

It is dangerous to "assume" all relays are just a coil across the activation terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Always connect ground to relay #85 terminal and power to #86.

Some relays have integrated suppression diodes across the coil.

Connecting things wrong can cause damage.

It is dangerous to "assume" all relays are just a coil across the activation terminals.
But, what do I run to the temperature switch?
 

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I did that and the relay clicks, but fans don't turn on. Bad relay?

do this... connect a wire from 30 to your battery, a ground wire to 85, hook a wire from 87 to the hot lead of your fan, the other fan wire to ground. then hook a wire from 86 to your battery, you should hear a click and your fans should turn on. Ignore the temperature switch for now. If it works the way i laid out here then all you need to do is wire from 86 to your temperature switch instead of the battery. Once it gets hot enough for the temp switch to kick on, the fans should come on. if not then you have a bad temp switch.
 
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Ethan I was making fun of you buying all Chinese stuff, wth man..

Bart is confusing you and might have damaged your temp switch by putting batter power to it..

Turn your key on and ground the switch wire. If the relay clicks and fans come on, then it's the switch.

Also make sure your fans are blowing in the right direction..
 

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Ethan I was making fun of you buying all Chinese stuff, wth man..

Bart is confusing you and might have damaged your temp switch by putting batter power to it..

Turn your key on and ground the switch wire. If the relay clicks and fans come on, then it's the switch.

Also make sure your fans are blowing in the right direction..
I said to ignore the temp switch, never said to put power on it
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
BIG hugs to all of you guys! The reason I was getting a click at the relay and the fans weren't coming on when I tested for 12v was, because I did it wrong. First of all, 85 was still connected to a 12v ignition source, so lesson learned. Secondly, I grounded 85 and put 86 to the positive side of the battery and click and fans came on. Lesson learned! So, I bypassed the temperature switch and ran 86 to a 12v ignition source and now the fans come on when I turn the key. Thanks guys! I'll use the plug that came with the radiator and just plug up the temperature switch hole. Don't know how else to thank you guys!:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ethan I was making fun of you buying all Chinese stuff, wth man..

Bart is confusing you and might have damaged your temp switch by putting batter power to it..

Turn your key on and ground the switch wire. If the relay clicks and fans come on, then it's the switch.

Also make sure your fans are blowing in the right direction..
Hey man, it's all I could afford. At least I'll be able to use it for "maybe" a summer, then I can buy a Champion or something.
 

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Those fans are junk. They are not going to cool your car at idle. Especially with no shroud. I'm telling you this from personal experience.
 

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When you're cleaning up your wiring, leave a little slack under the relay. The red wire you have zip tied to the split loom is too tight. You want a little room for vibrations, but also leave a little droop before it goes into the relay (service loop).

If water gets in your engine bay it will go to the lowest point, the service loop, and not into the relay connector and start corroding.

Only reason I'm giving you hell for Chinese parts is you're a novice, so you're starting out learning, and making it even harder using parts that are not up to the task. I usually leads to frustration that could have been avoided.
 

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This thread is a good example of how difficult troubleshooting wiring is over the internet. And it is an excellent example of someone responding quickly to suggestions with feedback, and a good primer on relays. I'm glad you got them spinning now, hope they help. I'd use fans like that as an assist, but not as my only cooling, and I'd wire them up totally separate, so if any one component fails, at least 1 fan will work.
Plus I wouldn't bother with a temperature switch, when I had an electric assist fan, I just wired a switch to turn on the relay (off of +12, not ign) so I could turn it on ahead of time and leave it on, even after shutting the car down to cool off the rad more (just don't forget and kill the battery).
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Those fans are junk. They are not going to cool your car at idle. Especially with no shroud. I'm telling you this from personal experience.
I found that out after I installed them and they weren't working. So, I looked them up and saw the reviews. My mistake and I have to live with it for right now. It's all part of life. Trial and error.

I'd pull that and put a clutch fan on..
That would contradict the reasons I took the original clutch and fan off to begin with.
 

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I found that out after I installed them and they weren't working. So, I looked them up and saw the reviews. My mistake and I have to live with it for right now. It's all part of life. Trial and error.

That would contradict the reasons I took the original clutch and fan off to begin with.
That's why I was giving you grief to begin with. ;) 0:)

Need to look around and research what fans people are using from junkyards. It's cheaper, they're more reliable, and parts are easily obtained if something goes down.

I'm planning on running LS1 camaro fans on my 64 when I get it ready to fire, did a quick test fit and will have to create small panels to make it work. Could find something better fitting, but already have the fans sitting around.

Here's a little mind blowing for you, this is how I normally wire the fans I do:

When cooling1 is triggered, fans run in series, so both are seeing 6 volts and run quiet @ half speed. When cooling2 is triggered, they go parallel, both fans see 12 volts and run at full speed. Camaros have been wired like this from the factory for quite a while.

When an ecm isn't controlling the fans, cooling1 is ignition triggered, put a diode in cooling2 trigger and run to a/c and thermostat control.

 

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That's why I was giving you grief to begin with. ;) 0:)

Need to look around and research what fans people are using from junkyards. It's cheaper, they're more reliable, and parts are easily obtained if something goes down.

I'm planning on running LS1 camaro fans on my 64 when I get it ready to fire, did a quick test fit and will have to create small panels to make it work. Could find something better fitting, but already have the fans sitting around.

Here's a little mind blowing for you, this is how I normally wire the fans I do:

When cooling1 is triggered, fans run in series, so both are seeing 6 volts and run quiet @ half speed. When cooling2 is triggered, they go parallel, both fans see 12 volts and run at full speed. Camaros have been wired like this from the factory for quite a while.

When an ecm isn't controlling the fans, cooling1 is ignition triggered, put a diode in cooling2 trigger and run to a/c and thermostat control.
I like that, took me 2 times following the purple to actually grasp how the switching ground worked.
I may save that, and modify the image showing what is actually active for each of 3 options, All off, series, then parallel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
That's why I was giving you grief to begin with. ;) 0:)

Need to look around and research what fans people are using from junkyards. It's cheaper, they're more reliable, and parts are easily obtained if something goes down.

I'm planning on running LS1 camaro fans on my 64 when I get it ready to fire, did a quick test fit and will have to create small panels to make it work. Could find something better fitting, but already have the fans sitting around.

Here's a little mind blowing for you, this is how I normally wire the fans I do:

When cooling1 is triggered, fans run in series, so both are seeing 6 volts and run quiet @ half speed. When cooling2 is triggered, they go parallel, both fans see 12 volts and run at full speed. Camaros have been wired like this from the factory for quite a while.

When an ecm isn't controlling the fans, cooling1 is ignition triggered, put a diode in cooling2 trigger and run to a/c and thermostat control.

It's more than mind-blowing. That's detrimental to my health.:grin2:

Just kidding. I'll print that out and study that....for a while.:thumbsup:
 
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