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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some of you may have been following my thread about difficulties bleeding the brakes on the wagon: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285936

Well, in the end I was able to get a firm pedal, but it took it nearly to the floor to get firm. In the end, it appears that the right rear caliper may not be adjusting fully thus pulling away from the rotor too far requiring the pedal to go quite a ways to apply the brakes.

The caliper on the left rear seems to be fully adjusted. It has just a little bit of drag with the parking brake and brakes off. On the other side, however, I can see just a little bit of clearance between the pad and the rotor when all the brakes are off. If I set the parking brake, the brake pedal feels real firm just an inch or so into the pedal throw.

I'm not sure if the caliper is bad or if it's something I can fix. I've tried setting the parking brake 8000 times both with the pedal and by manually moving the lever at the caliper. It adjusts some of the initial distance but still is too loose. Does anyone know if there is an adjustment I can make to the caliper's adjustment mechanism or any way I can definitively determine if the caliper is bad? When I had it off the car, it seemed to adjust just fine, in fact I had to unadjust it just to get it back on the car.

Might just be easier to replace it?
 

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Good brake system when working right, if not will make you cuss Grandma! It has been 20+ yrs so I can not remember all the details. Bleeding is extremely difficult with the caliper bolted to the bracket, due to the arrangement of the line and the bleeder,it leaves air pockets in the caliper. Remove caliper and invert it,(do not let it hange by the brake line) so the pads are facing up. Cut a piece of wood that will fit snuggly between the pads, start bleeding. Can not remember but you might take the top bolt out and let hinge back. These calipers have got to float. Where the pins go through the caliper there are o-rings, remove and inspect,they should be soft, not hard or cracked. Clean the holes in the calipers, pins and steel bushings well. All these parts can be bought at a local parts house if needing to be replaced. Lube o-rings, pins, and steel bushing with a silicon grease or never-sieze. The bushings should float easy, with the lightest finger pressure. Hopefully, you will have brakes. If you have good brakes, but no pedal, take the e-brake cable loose and turn the stud a quarter round. Reinstall and check pedal, you might have a full pedal, but it might lock up the rear wheel. If so back it off, as the pads wear down the pedal should get better. Also to help out, ever time you park the car set the e-brake. I would not recommened removing any facing off of the pads or turning the rotor just to get clearance. GOOD LUCK! Thomas.
 

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Rich was the outcome of this problem? I am having trouble getting my rear caliper pistons adjusted out to the rotor. Did the 8000 pumps on the park pedal and still have too much clearance. I am considering taking the levers off and turning the adjusting screw with a wrench, it seems the pedal does not move the piston out very much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rich was the outcome of this problem? I am having trouble getting my rear caliper pistons adjusted out to the rotor. Did the 8000 pumps on the park pedal and still have too much clearance. I am considering taking the levers off and turning the adjusting screw with a wrench, it seems the pedal does not move the piston out very much.
Well, after it sat for a while the pedal is again soft so I really don't know. (yet) ;)
 
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