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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After experiencing my current issues of nosing over about 60ft mark I decided to contact both Tanks Inc & Aeromotive in hopes they could maybe offer a fix.

I have a Tanks Inc Kit with an Aeromotive 340 Stealth Pump, also I'm fairly sure Aeromotive use the Tanks Inc unit in their Stealth Kits.

Would note that recent visits to Dragstrip have been with 1/2 a Tank of Fuel on first visit where I made one successful pass of 11.44 at 126.77mph with a horrible 2.0 60ft, the subsequent three passes also nosed over, returned a couple of week later with 3/4 of a Tank but nosed over on all four passes.

Below is Tanks Inc response.

We do not typically recommend our fuel tanks for drag racing. The problem specifically with the Chevelle tank that you have is that the pump is in the front of the tank and when drag racing all the fuel gets pushed to the back. This problem is further complicated in that that tank is very wide, flat and shallow. So even with ½ of a tank of gas the pump is only sitting in maybe 3 inches of gas. So a high horsepower car with tires and suspension that can hook up on the 68-72 GM A-Body tanks can cause the issue you are experiencing. Putting in a larger fuel pump may even make this issue worse as it sounds like happened with the Aeromotive pump.

So my recommendation would be to run at minimum ¾ of a tank of gas. If you are interested in using our product for drag racing I can tell you that we are in the process of improving the internal baffling system in our tanks that may help you. The pump tray will be deeper and there will be baffle tubes to prevent gas from leaving the fuel tray.


I sent a question to Aeromotive, asking whether their Kit would be adequate for a Street/Strip car with possibility of doing a 10.5 second pass with a 1.5s 60ft time, also questioned their disclaimer on their website as follows:

Note: Stealth Fuel Tanks are not engineered for competition drag racing or road racing applications where extreme acceleration and cornering will occur with fuel levels lower than 1/2 tank. Racing fuel cells such as Aeromotive’s 6-Gallon Stealth Fuel cell or bladder style road racing tanks with the appropriate baffling and gated collectors are recommended for these types of applications.

Their response was:

Yes, as long as you understand the limitations as outlined in the “Note” you highlighted.
 

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This is exactly why I didn't go with Tanks Inc/Aeromotive. I had called Aeromotive and they were honest about those exact limitations which I much appreciated. I am still surprised you are having issues with 3/4 of a tank.

I of course went with the much much more expensive Rick's Tank's SS tank. I found that under 1/4 of a tank with some tight corner, I got some starvation, which has made me pretty upset. They built 2 tanks for me, and I don't think the second tank has the correct baffles that I asked for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well Bob (rel3rd) has not had any issue with his Tank and he is in the realm of 1.6 60ft times and usually runs with a 1/2 tank.

Believe my Meanstreet might be an issue of tuning the Pump Shot Size & Decay plus AFR Loop, will make some changes to relay wiring and feed line, is confusing as had no issues on first trip to dragstrip when using FCC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I'll share my solution and you guys can decide whether it's worth your time/expense.

I already knew the limitations going in as the El Camino was destined for the track...it will however return to the street one day so my decisions were always skewed toward that day. I used a TanksInc out back as well as adding one similar to this up front... Blk AEM 50-1005 380LPH -8 an8 8an 6an -6 an6 Fuel Pump 2L surge tank 044 bosch | eBay

I figure at launch there will be a strong possibility of fuel being dragged away from the pick-up in the rear, so the reserve tank/pump up front will carry me to the 1/4-mile mark. I don't plan on carrying any more fuel in the tank than what is necessary...a little experimentation will tell the tale. Since the current 327 is sporting a Q-jet I opted for this regulator which can be used later for most any injection set-up... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-27001









 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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Is this tank being used with the Command Center too? I installed one of these Tanks inc tanks in mine, only a couple street launches so far...hope there isn't a problem with this setup. Just picked up a Walbro 450 pump too...
 

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Well Bob (rel3rd) has not had any issue with his Tank and he is in the realm of 1.6 60ft times and usually runs with a 1/2 tank.

Believe my Meanstreet might be an issue of tuning the Pump Shot Size & Decay plus AFR Loop, will make some changes to relay wiring and feed line, is confusing as had no issues on first trip to dragstrip when using FCC.
Anywhere from 1.0 to 1.5 seconds into the run, checked fuel filters yes, have Datalogs of previous 8 runs with new tank, goes lean anywhere up to 18:1.

Can read more here.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-efi/862954-540-bbc-dyno-fitech-meanstreet-command-center-install-4.html
Thanks for adding this thread Dan.

One thing I just now remembered though...With the TanksInc tank, and the Fitech, on one track day I specifically remember, my car was pulling hard off the line, and not long before usual time to shift into 2nd, the car would nose over hard, then when shifted, would "catch up" and run great the rest of the run...

I assumed it was me being just shy of 1/2 tank, so I added 5 gallons, but for 2 more passes, it still nosed over...

At that point I was intent on BREAKING IT...LOL...especially since it screamed on the street, no matter what.

I started running round robin style, with zero cooldown, and car immediately ran fine anywhere and everywhere in the RPM range...

It seems the car was not in closed loop, and just would not run right under 150 degrees coolant temp, I think it was...

In fact, the couple times I ran the car after that day, I'd specifically make sure the engine temp was above 150 degrees, and it ran fine, every time.

Fast forward to now....

With the Holley, I can set where my car so it goes into Closed Loop, pretty much from dead cold, and have never had an issue since....and I hate to admit, I have raced it, and played on the street numerous times as low as 1/8th tank, and coolant as cold at 120-ish degrees, and the car has never even hinted at running out of, or starving for, fuel...

Sorry for not remembering this while PM'ing, but maybe this is your issue?
 

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So there's 2 electric pumps? 1 in the tank and 1 in surge tank?
That tank wouldn't fit on passenger side?
I'd like to see it away from the battery.
Yes, two pumps. That is the passenger side. It would have been easier by far to mount it on the driver side, but didnt want all the plumbing crossing the engine bay. There is no vent to the small tank and with everything being completely sealed I can see no more danger with it located close to the battery vs everything else that goes on under a hood during operation. There won't be any soft launches here...

 

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Duh! My bad. I meant the driver side.
Yeah , I'm in the same boat.
I tried going to the track to try thr fitech,but had issues on the line with my trans. had to put it on the trailer.
Now I have to go back with a different trans AND the fitech.
So I've got my work is cut out for me! :yes:

 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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Yes, two pumps. That is the passenger side. It would have been easier by far to mount it on the driver side, but didnt want all the plumbing crossing the engine bay. There is no vent to the small tank and with everything being completely sealed I can see no more danger with it located close to the battery vs everything else that goes on under a hood during operation. There won't be any soft launches here...

Do you have an in tank pump too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for adding this thread Dan.

One thing I just now remembered though...With the TanksInc tank, and the Fitech, on one track day I specifically remember, my car was pulling hard off the line, and not long before usual time to shift into 2nd, the car would nose over hard, then when shifted, would "catch up" and run great the rest of the run...

I assumed it was me being just shy of 1/2 tank, so I added 5 gallons, but for 2 more passes, it still nosed over...

At that point I was intent on BREAKING IT...LOL...especially since it screamed on the street, no matter what.

I started running round robin style, with zero cooldown, and car immediately ran fine anywhere and everywhere in the RPM range...

It seems the car was not in closed loop, and just would not run right under 150 degrees coolant temp, I think it was...

In fact, the couple times I ran the car after that day, I'd specifically make sure the engine temp was above 150 degrees, and it ran fine, every time.

Fast forward to now....

With the Holley, I can set where my car so it goes into Closed Loop, pretty much from dead cold, and have never had an issue since....and I hate to admit, I have raced it, and played on the street numerous times as low as 1/8th tank, and coolant as cold at 120-ish degrees, and the car has never even hinted at running out of, or starving for, fuel...

Sorry for not remembering this while PM'ing, but maybe this is your issue?
Thanks for input again Bob, Coolant Temp has been 172-188, during past 8 passes, the one decent full pass out of those was at 179.

Was thinking was perhaps one of possible issues was the opposite of that being things were getting to hot under hood.
 

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Yes, in tank pump as well.
So one in the tank, one under the car and the surge tank? Sure hope I don't have to go the fuel cell route after all...
 

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So one in the tank, one under the car and the surge tank? Sure hope I don't have to go the fuel cell route after all...
No...one inside the rear tank and one inside the front tank for a total of two. I would not have bothered with the front set-up had this been strictly street. The front tank/pump is easily bypassed with an electrical quick disconnect and hose re-arrange should I decide it's not needed. The image posted earlier may have confused some...that is a inline fuel filter mounted by the spring.

 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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No...one inside the rear tank and one inside the front tank for a total of two. I would not have bothered with the front set-up had this been strictly street. The front tank/pump is easily bypassed with an electrical quick disconnect and hose re-arrange should I decide it's not needed. The image posted earlier may have confused some...that is a inline fuel filter mounted by the spring.

Yes this pic threw me off....thought that was an inline pump.
 

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This fuel cell I used in the Mustang uses a in-tank pump and would be more than enough for most any application on it's own. Universal Aluminum Gas and Diesel Fuel Tanks I was not willing to do the standard fare of bolting a fuel cell in the bed of this truck however...it will be novel for someone to see me in the pits re-fueling using the factory fuel door. :D

 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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Yeah I didnt want to go with a fuel cell either. Hoping this Tanks inc deal wasnt the wrong way to go....so far its been fine.
 
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