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looks like a realy nice car, i like the garage to think it comes with the car?:D
 

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I don't know about the numbers, but I don't see any underside pictures, it could be a rust bucket, he said original floors, I know if its an original floor, theres rust between the floor pans and floor supports, anywhere from 1/32 of an inch to 3/8 inch thick.

If a guy could get a picture of the floors, especially a close up at an angle of the support and floor, you can tell if its got a lot of rust in it.

If they have a lot of rust, you can also tell from inside the car, if you look real close, you can see where its swollen up.

This might be a really nice car, but that bottom that he isn't showing, thats where the money is.

Rob
 

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Some engine details obviously incorrect - dual feed carb, black top on air cleaner, Tonawanda sticker, alternator/brace mounting, spark plug shields...

Engine CON VIN looks sloppy, even for a factory stamping. Letter and numbes aren't the same height and much bigger than others I've seen - looks like a previous stamping beside the first '3'.

I'll admit the white with red interior is a standout! The more I see red interiors the more I like 'em.
 

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It's a nice looking car. I asked for pics of the undercarriage.
Does anyone know if the rivets holding the VIN plate are correct?
 

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66 Chevelle SS396 & 66 Chevelle 327 Convertible.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Engine stamp looks skeptical. Matching #'s, 69 rear for a 40,000 mile car, no assemble date or vin on the m21, Delco must have got that alternator there fast (dated March 4 & build date 2nd week of March), and correct starter(wheres the date). Lots of photo's but none of the undercarriage, what about that date code & vin # from the frame. How could someone get all the engine detail wrong from a 40,000 mile car? Don't you think the closed ventalation PVC setup should be correct along with the air cleaner top. Must have forgotten which way that original alternator was installed. Correct 66 PS cap & correct alternator fan. Where is the build sheet? Claims Original interior , got it unrestored; don't you think he would have found it by now, if he restored the car. Nice looking car; But how can he call it matching #'s? Did you guys spot the bolt instead of the rivet on the grill picture? Vin rivets look OK to me.
 

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Engine stamp looks skeptical. Matching #'s, 69 rear for a 40,000 mile car, no assemble date or vin on the m21, Delco must have got that alternator there fast (dated March 4 & build date 2nd week of March), and correct starter(wheres the date). Lots of photo's but none of the undercarriage, what about that date code & vin # from the frame. How could someone get all the engine detail wrong from a 40,000 mile car? Don't you think the closed ventalation PVC setup should be correct along with the air cleaner top. Must have forgotten which way that original alternator was installed. Correct 66 PS cap & correct alternator fan. Where is the build sheet? Claims Original interior , got it unrestored; don't you think he would have found it by now, if he restored the car. Nice looking car; But how can he call it matching #'s? Did you guys spot the bolt instead of the rivet on the grill picture? Vin rivets look OK to me.
I took issue with the VIN rivets also Jim, for some reason I don't think they should have a stem in the middle of the hole like a pop rivet, and engine stamping looks off, size looks way wrong, and I know every plant did things alittle different but I don't remember seeing a 1 like that, not saying they did stamp them but wern't most stamped using a I for a 1.

Help me out here Dale.

Also you can't make me believe thats the original paint, if you look at the trunk lock section in the deck lid, it has been painted!! They did not come from the factory like that

Rocky
 

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66 Chevelle SS396 & 66 Chevelle 327 Convertible.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just looked at the spare 961 block I have in the garage. It's dated D 26 6.
The assembly code is T 0512 EDH and that is real clear. The vin stamp is not to clear, in fact the 6 that is suppose to be there is not there. Only a K 193971. The 93971 is a good number for a kansas city car in mid May. I Bought the block in South Dakota last fall, supposedly siting since 1981 after it was T-boned, so if true I don't think any restamping. Probably resurfaced at sometime because of the missing 6 and the other numbers not to clear; but the broach marks are definetly there . The both 1's in the vin stamp are definitly not a "I"; they are like the ones pictured on the car for sale. The stamping shows that the K, 1,7, & 1 were individualy stamped because of miss-alinement. The 939 could have been stamped together. So I disagree with the I being used for 1 at the Kansas city plant in 1966. Now that someone has mentioned it, those rivets do look a little different. Think I saw some pop rivets of this tyle for sale on ebay last fall. Is there suppose to be a hole all the way through the rivet?
 

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Doesn't the add say it was repainted??
DUH. I guess I should read a little closer. All I saw was retains original sheetmetal.
I should pay more attention to what is said before I jump in with both feet. The 1 I thing was the Tonawanda number not VIN stamp.

Rocky
 
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