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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to wire my 67 drag car.I'll use the painless accessory harness. It will not be street driven. It has duel radiator fans, electric h20 pump, trans cooler fan, electric fuel pump, MSD 6al ignition, delay box, etc.
It will draw close to 60 amps if everything is on between rounds and about 35 amps going down the track with the fans off.
My options are: Run two deep cycle batteries, Optima Yellow tops, and run the 8 amp battery charger outlet from my small honda generator bewtween rounds to recharge when I can.I may need to run 4 runs before I can recharge.
Or run a 100 amp altenator and one battery. About the same net weight but I'm not sure the car will be running enough to charge the battery. Plus I'm worried about the H.P. drain caused by the alt.
I'm sure this has been discussed but I can't find a good search topic key so I appreciate your input.
 

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When I had my drag car, I tried the battery deal & it's a real pain charging between rounds, and when you get to the later rounds, there isn't enough time to get a full charge. I went from 2 big batteries to one Optima red top and a Delco 1 wire alternator. I charged the battery overnight with a trickle charger, took it to the track & ran it. Worked great, and you don't have to worry about weird ignition problems due to low voltage downtrack. :D
BL
 

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35A is only 1.3hp assuming the alternator is 50% efficient. Not that big a drain on the engine.

If you find a 1-wire that will produce 65+ amps at idle then you won't need to worry about the battery going dead. Unless, of course, you run the fans and pump while the engine is off.

Peter
 

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go to undersize pulley on alternator using the internal voltage regulator. One wire type typically do not charge at low rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've spent quite a bit of time researching how to set this up and here is where I ended up: Working with MAD Electric I will run a CS130 alternator run to the battery side of a solinoid in the trunk with one trunk mounted battery, Optima yellow top, wired to the battery side of the same solinoid. Also from the alternator will be a 8 ga wire to a distribution block @ the front of the cat from which power to the cooling fans etc will be run. An 8 gauge wire will run back to the front of the car from the battery side of the solinoid to a distribution block to power the dash items. The safty switch will be in this line. With this system the car will not run-on when tech. throws the switch and the alternator will not be damaged. The large wire to the starter will only have power when using the starter.For some really good reading and info visit www.madelectrical.com. They were alot of help.
 

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Sounds good. Mark always seems to have good advice.

Did he recommend running the voltage sensing wire for the alternator back to the battery, in parallel with the 8 gauge wire run? I would. It will compensate for the voltage drop in the charging wire run. It's the S terminal on the alternator.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
We discussed it but because it is a race only car and I want to use a CS 130 he didn't think it was neccessary. If it were used on the street I would do the remote sensing deal.
 
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