[Notalent]

Hey guys looking for help....I got the windstar fans all hooked up now to a NAPA#FS120SB Temp Switch (2 prong) (no longer on just ignition switch) and I keep popping fusues for the 30amp on fuse panel once the key is turned...

Here's what I have hooked up....am I missing something?

85- Switched 12v from fan on fuse panel
86- Grounded
87- Fan +
30- Constant 12v from battery/junction

Switch is grounded to back of the head on one poke which is also chassis ground

2nd post on switch is running into 86 spliced into 2 separate relays.

Here is the relays im running x 2.

 

[Notalent]

Heres the diagram I was using:

 

[jrs396]

Follow your diagram...looks like 85 uses 5 amp fuse from switched source and 86 is grounded using the temp sensor or adjustable controller.85 and 86 are the low current
side of the relay that is used to activate the high current side.

I would use a fusible link or 30 amp fuse from the battery to term 30 on the relay then 87 to the hot side of the fan motor and then the motor grounds to the body or frame of the car.

By what I can see the diagram is correct...your description is wrong

 

[Notalent]

Follow your diagram...looks like 85 uses 5 amp fuse from switched source and 86 is grounded using the temp sensor or adjustable controller.85 and 86 are the low current
side of the relay that is used to activate the high current side.

I would use a fusible link or 30 amp fuse from the battery to term 30 on the relay then 87 to the hot side of the fan motor and then the motor grounds to the body or frame of the car.

By what I can see the diagram is correct...your description is wrong

Sorry, yes I messed up on the description....everything is wired accordingly minus the 5 amp fuse. 86 is grounded to temp sensor which is than grounded to rear of head. I do have 2 inline 30 amps between junction block to the relays.

I have yet to hook up a toggle switch, but once I get the temp switch working I will add it in. Im working off someone elses install/wiring of the american auto wire kit....wasnt to happy with what he did I did check the wires though, the orange wire coming from the "Fan Fuse Panel" is going to #85. Just dont get why im popping these fuses...Its very possible im missing something so simple...I have been looking at so many different wiring diagrams and ways to route wires on my own setup/clean things up my mind is BOGGLES

Here is a picture of the relay setup:

 

[jrs396]

the red wires crimped to the black wires are they grounded right there at that sheet metal screw next to the relays ? if they are that is wrong they belong going to your temp switch and if they are not going to the temp switch, what wires are ? hmmmm

 

[jrs396]

Providing those wires are in the #86 relay cavity of the relay connector that is...

disconnect the battery,the relay connectors and the napa temp sensor and ohm out those wires.I think you will find the high current wiring going thru that temp sensor thus giving you your dead short

 

[Notalent]

the red wires crimped to the black wires are they grounded right there at that sheet metal screw next to the relays ? if they are that is wrong they belong going to your temp switch and if they are not going to the temp switch, what wires are ? hmmmm

They were, but I than spliced them together and routed to temp switch which is also grounded via the head/chassis ground.

 

[jrs396]

Any chance the fan is no good and is internally shorted ?

The heavy red wire has battery power on term 30 and the yellow is switched FROM term 87 to the fan ?

 

[Notalent]

Any chance the fan is no good and is internally shorted ?

The heavy red wire has battery power on term 30 and the yellow is switched FROM term 87 to the fan ?

Everything should work, I had it hooked straight to the ignition running just last weekend to test while I waited for the switch to get delivered.

Correct, 30 is the heavy Red and the fan + is actually white, but bad picture and is going to 87. I have the fan - grounded next to the relays.

 

[jrs396]

What I'm not understanding is when you turn the key on and supply the relay with power on the 85 terminal if the engine is not hot the temp sensor is NOT grounding term 86.

No way the 30 amp fuse should pop as there is no current flow anywhere on that circuit.

Is this correct ?

 

[jrs396]

Have you checked start up current flow with an amprobe ? Initial current draw can momentarily spike way past 30 amps,maybe try a little higher rated circuit breaker.

just throwing out ideas as this is a very basic circuit to wire,no rocket science required

 

[Notalent]

Im thinking its overloading the system because I have 2 power sources, that constant 12v and the 12v from the ignition hitting it. If I obselete the the 12v ignition and add a toggle to the constant 12 v that should fix the problem....

 

[VenomGT]

I had something similar happening to me althought I have the volvo 2-spd relay and the problem was that the relay was stuck on one of the speeds, replaced the relay never had that problem again btw they are $5 at the junkyard and you can find never volvos by the handful.

 

[jrs396]

Im thinking its overloading the system because I have 2 power sources, that constant 12v and the 12v from the ignition hitting it. If I obselete the the 12v ignition and add a toggle to the constant 12 v that should fix the problem....

I doubt it....I just got done bench testing 3 different types of that relay,the low power circuit that activates the switching coil which is term 85 and 86
only draws one tenth of one amp. basically nothing.

If you had it working before and only changed the ground thru the temp switch It should still work. Something else changed.

 

[Coppertop]

Why does the picture show one of the relay socket connections is spliced to the wire that is labeled "WIPER --LO SPEED" ???

You may have to clean up the previous mess first so you don't end up chasing your tail.

 

[Coppertop]

Why does the picture show one of the relay socket connections is spliced to the wire that is labeled "WIPER --LO SPEED" ???


EDIT< looks like they used it as scrap piece of wire

 

[Coppertop]

Make sure you have your fuses in place.

Unplug both relays. With the socket in your hand, do one at a time, take a piece of scrap wire and short out the socket connections that correspond with "30" and "87". Doing this with both sockets should cause the corresponding fans to kick on instantly. If the fuse pops, you have an under-sized fused or wiring OR fan issues.

Fans work? Problem in the relays and or related control wiriing.

 

[69-CHVL]

Brandon, this is what I had on there - (2) 70amp Ford relay's - one for each fan and (2) 40amp maxi-fuses. Never had any of them blow. I should of sent them to ya, I think there under the bench somewhere.

The 2 relays on the left for the head lights, the right side are the Fords which I stole when I grabbed the wiring harness for the fans.

 

[Coppertop]

The above picture uses the correct (MAXI style fuses). Regardless of amp rating, the smaller ATO/ATC fuses can not handle the in-rush current and have less surface area for current, so they prove unreliable on large inductive loads. Member "BIKERON" did an excellent write up about this in his custom rewiring projects.

 

[Notalent]

Got things worked out... So focused on hooking up everything I noticed I only had 1 30 amp fuse ran into the system...There is another 30 amp ran along the same line next to it so I "Assumed" but was wrong...added another inline 30amp fuse so each fan had one and the clouds parted shining light down on my system

Everything is up and running great. The switch kicks on right at about 200 degrees and while idling in the drive way it took about 3-5 mins to cool it down to 179ish and kick off on a 100 degree day. I will take if for a drive today hopefully and see how it handles at highway speeds if and when the fans kick on with that air flowing.

Thanks for the help/tips guys...sometimes we just over look the small things

PS- I will be swapping out to the maxi fuses as well.