[dereknv]

OK...dumb question for the day. Replacing my driver's side door latch assembly on my 66. New assembly is slightly different where the locking rod connects and ends up being not long enough (nor the right bend) to go back up through the door lock hole. I don't believe I got the wrong assembly (part# pictured), so do I need to simply get a new locking rod? If so, any recommendations on part/vendor? Thanks for the advice/help!

 

[Raven1]

Mod the rod or the latch. What was wrong with the original latch? I have factory ones for numerous makes and models and 99% work fine after cleaning and lubrication.

 

[Capt Casey]

Have to agree with Raven...the latch, unless it is rotted out and unserviceable it can be soaked and cleaned then re lubed with grease and put back in... It isn't usually the latch that wears out it's the pin in the quarter that wears out due to door sag and a weak or worn hinge pin. easier to clean it and try it than to modify the new one. If it doesn't work you can always try to use that part from the old on the new modification?
I'd clean up the old one and send the others back...you have nothing to lose at this point!

 

[dereknv]

Mod the rod or the latch. What was wrong with the original latch? I have factory ones for numerous makes and models and 99% work fine after cleaning and lubrication.

Old latch wasn't closing properly, meaning unless you slammed it, the door would pop back slightly and not close all the way. Is there a particular lube that you recommend or something to soak it in? Perhaps the WD40 soak?

 

[dereknv]

Have to agree with Raven...the latch, unless it is rotted out and unserviceable it can be soaked and cleaned then re lubed with grease and put back in... It isn't usually the latch that wears out it's the pin in the quarter that wears out due to door sag and a weak or worn hinge pin. easier to clean it and try it than to modify the new one. If it doesn't work you can always try to use that part from the old on the new modification?
I'd clean up the old one and send the others back...you have nothing to lose at this point!

Good points by you and Raven. Maybe I'll soak the old one in something. Like I mentioned in the response to Raven, the door needs to be slammed to shut properly. The old one seems a little slow on the recoil (so to speak) when moving it back and forth with my fingers.

 

[Capt Casey]

You can adjust the door after you replace the door latch, but you really shouldn't need too unless your door hinges are worn...then you should replace the hinge pins...don't cheat and adjust the latch pin ...It won't solve the door slump/ sag. So check the top of the door latch pin located on the quarter panel in the doorway where the door latch mates with it.
If it is worn on top and shiny then it is the door hinge pin.. You latch assembly is probably just sticky with years of grease and dirt as well as some wear...Once you soak it in some parts cleaner...carb cleaner sprayed on it will clean it off hard on the skin eyes and lungs do it outside... Varsol in a bucket let it soak for a few hours and brush away heavy build up and blow with air or wipe clean...Not sure of your set up or tool situation. Tooth brushes work well use the wife's LOL kidding... an old one to work the solvent in wear safety glasses as the Varsol stings!...Then after cleaned try the mechanism and lube with white lithium grease or the equivalent depending on temperature of where you are located... Hotter climates the white lithium sometimes doesn't stay as viscose and simply runs away...
Good luck!

 

[Raven1]

I don't see what the big deal is. Inspect the door hinges, strikers and latches. Common sense.

 

[melav8r]

I had good luck soaking a pair of 72 Chevelle latches in diesel fuel, then lubing them, more than a few years ago. They came out looking brand new and worked beautifully.

 

[billdini]

When I got my 69 Camaro SS I had the same issue. Thought it was the lock so I bought a new GM lock. Same thing. These are double latch security locks meaning if the striker is too far in it will not fully engage and back up to the second position. I suggest you move the striker out away from the interior to fully engage both positions on the lock. It's normal to think that positioning the striker in more would fix it but in this case it makes it worse.

 

[JohnC]

If there a “correct” finish to these? If you get them cleaned up, do people clear coat or are they galvanized?

 

[billdini]

A good cleaning and a light wire wheel will clean them up nicely. They shouldn't be painted and considering these do need to be lubricated clear would likely fail in short order. I keep mine clean with WD40 or other cleaning lubricant. I did replace my 3 locking crews on each lock that are also a brushed stainless color..

 

[Capt Casey]

They are usually only painted where the latch is as they are in the doors when painted at the factory. The rest of the lock mechanism in the door is usually just the bare metal...
remember they weren't supposed to last 60 years...only the given 5-7 till you bought a new one! Clean them lube them put back in and as Bill said adjust the pin striker in Quarter Panel to suck the door inwards.

 

[jeffschevelle]

The box you show is labeled 67 on the bigger sticker. 66 and 67 latches are different in how they operate (66's will open when locked if you lift the inside door handle, while 67's will not). I don't recall if that lock rod attachment arm is different between the two years or not, but you might check to see if they sell 66's and if they actually match your original.

They are usually only painted where the latch is as they are in the doors when painted at the factory. The rest of the lock mechanism in the door is usually just the bare metal...

With the exception of very late production 67's built at the Kansas City plant, 64-67 Chevelles did not have painted door latches, screws or strikers, as all of that was installed after body painting. On the very late production KC 67's the door latches and screws were painted, but the door strikers still were not painted.

 

[Capt Casey]

The box you show is labeled 67 on the bigger sticker. 66 and 67 latches are different in how they operate (66's will open when locked if you lift the inside door handle, while 67's will not). I don't recall if that lock rod attachment arm is different between the two years or not, but you might check to see if they sell 66's and if they actually match your original.



With the exception of very late production 67's built at the Kansas City plant, 64-67 Chevelles did not have painted door latches, screws or strikers, as all of that was installed after body painting. On the very late production KC 67's the door latches and screws were painted, but the door strikers still were not painted.

Strikers I didn't think were ever painted just thought the latches were and the screws. Didn't know that about the 66-67's.

 

[Verle]

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It drys up and leaves nothing useful. Engine oil will help with inside parts.
I clean with B-12 carburetor cleaner, a very strong solvent and lubricate with bearing grease.

 

[HKalin]

I took my latches out of both my doors soaked them in gas and used a small brush to get into all the nooks and crannies blew them out and recleaned areas I missed the first time. After blowing them out again I sprayed the moving parts of the latch with a spray lithium grease let them sit overnight and remounted them in the doors the next day.