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Tell me what you think? I called this morning trying to see if I could order a stroker kit (540) for my 502 working with my heads (eddy oval 100cc) and they more less told me it would need to be a custom piston and that I should sell my motor and begin over.. Anyway,I tought I would go to jegs and buy a new set of heads(AFR'S 345'S) So I call shariroff back to order the stroker kit and the same guy picks up the line and ask didn't i talk with you this morning? Yes it's me! I told him the plan and he starts out by telling me I need a adapter from a one pc seal to a two pc seal,a new oil pan and a new cam.WHAT HELL DO I NEED ALL THIS FOR? He say's with all my stuff I'll only pick up 40hp over the 502 and I'm just wasting money and for me to sell my stuff and call him back so he can sell me a real motor??He said the 502 won't take the kind of hp I'm wanting to throw at it(850-900) Is this guy trying to help me or is trying to sell a $12,000 motor? I though more compression,cubes and better heads =more hp?
 

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sales pitch...........walk, no run away! there are plenty of other people making these kits.

Call Mike Lewis (Wolfplace)
 

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While I'm no expert I am thinking 850-900 HP is a lot to be throwing at a 502 block. My engine man says they are okay for a lower HP build up to around 800 or so but anything over that and they just don't have the strength that a mark IV block has or at that point you should even be looking at an aftermarket block. Apparently their stroker kit comes with an early style crank so you would need an adapter to fit the crank to your gen 6 block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
While I'm no expert I am thinking 850-900 HP is a lot to be throwing at a 502 block. My engine man says they are okay for a lower HP build up to around 800 or so but anything over that and they just don't have the strength that a mark IV block has or at that point you should even be looking at an aftermarket block.
Thanks, I don't doubt it. Im leaning toward putting all new bearings in it and putting it back together and selling it.
 

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I think you would be good to 700 maybe 800 with a stock 4-bolt block
The 850-900 level is a whole bunch more abuse.
Think about it......
Would you want your nice crank and other goodies and your $3000 heads etc in a block that may (or may not) hold together?
Why do you think they make aftermarket blocks with extra thick webs and thick walls front and back, and bracing? Because the production one do not have all this.

The Edelbrock-Musi 555"/650 uses a Dart Big M for the big bore AND the extra block material.

For you desired HP level, I'd not trust a GM production block. JMHO, but I do not think an aftermarket block would be a bad idea.
 

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It's your money so you can spnd it wherever you wish. I'd never call them back after that crap. The seal adapter is a true statement but I think you can find better customer satisfaction with a better understanding of what your need's and want's are. There are a couple qualified engine builder's that frequent this site and I'm sure they would be happy as heck to be your shop. Give them a try. Dan
 

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Sorry to say, but the guy on the phone is probably right. You will need a 2 piece seal adapter (502 block is a 1 one piece seal, stroker crank is a 2 piece seal), you will need a different pan for stroker clearance, and you will most likely need a new cam with the bigger afr heads.
 

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You need a good crank, Crower or Bryant for that HP level

The Scat may do for a street/strip car, The cheaper cranks will break much easier when you start throwing those big strokes in engines so it calls that you step up to a Bryant or a Crower or in some peoples opinion a Callies, i cant say, i dont use callies, I like Crower but whewwww $$$$$$$$$
 

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I think you would be good to 700 maybe 800 with a stock 4-bolt block
The 850-900 level is a whole bunch more abuse.
Think about it......
Would you want your nice crank and other goodies and your $3000 heads etc in a block that may (or may not) hold together?
Why do you think they make aftermarket blocks with extra thick webs and thick walls front and back, and bracing? Because the production one do not have all this.

The Edelbrock-Musi 555"/650 uses a Dart Big M for the big bore AND the extra block material.

For you desired HP level, I'd not trust a GM production block. JMHO, but I do not think an aftermarket block would be a bad idea.
The factory two bolt small blocks we have put an honest 650hp on in the past but it had milodon splayed caps, filled block and head studs - The block in the real world is probally good to 700hp in a drag motor but the Dart's will handle alot more and lighter bytime you factor in the hardblok - pick your foundation !!
 

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Yup, more compression,cubes and better heads =more hp right up to the point where the crankshaft exits the bottom of the engine. If the guys at Shafiroff say a 502 block is too weak for 850 HP, I would suggest listening to them and saving yourself a lot of cash and a lot of grief. I've had nothing but good experience with them and have always been very happy with their products.

Tom
 

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By the way... they used to use the gen 6 502 block in their 509 engines. Got a buddy with one that has had the heck raced out of it for about 7 seasons. But that engine used a 4.00" stroke and only made about 780 hp. I don't think they use those blocks any more in their larger engines with more stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm a little brain dead here today so I'll explain. I think I'm around 750hp right now with a hit of nitrous(175) running 9.68 in a 3400lb car.Im wanting to get this or a little more on the motor not running nitrous and if I want to take it past that I'll chance it with nitrous.Getting the stroker kit and adding comppression should get me there correct? Thats the plan..
 

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I did not address the heads.
By the time you get that many cubes, you need a head with more chamber volume or you WILL need custom pistons.....

"You pays your money and you takes your chances" or something like that. While you 'could' make a stock block pretty strong.....it will lack a lotta things in a Dart block.
Pal Tom Dufur, 7.9 sec (could run lower 7s if not on the throttle stop) Super Eliminator dragsters in SoCal will not mess with a GM block. Too much invested in go-fast parts to risk a block failure
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
By the way... they used to use the gen 6 502 block in their 509 engines. Got a buddy with one that has had the heck raced out of it for about 7 seasons. But that engine used a 4.00" stroke and only made about 780 hp. I don't think they use those blocks any more in their larger engines with more stroke.
I would be happy with 780hp.. It's still holding in there RIGHT?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did not address the heads.
By the time you get that many cubes, you need a head with more chamber volume or you WILL need custom pistons.....

"You pays your money and you takes your chances" or something like that. While you 'could' make a stock block pretty strong.....it will lack a lotta things in a Dart block.
Pal Tom Dufur, 7.9 sec (could run lower 7s if not on the throttle stop) Super Eliminator dragsters in SoCal will not mess with a GM block. Too much invested in go-fast parts to risk a block failure
Heads? I mentioned that in the 1st post.
 

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One issue that I think is worth looking at is the availability of parts for the MkIV style blocks. You can get better oil pans and head sealing than with the mk v block. I hate when you talk to salesmen like that. He may be 100% right in what he's saying but to tell you to sell your stuff and then come see him is arrogant. The issue with the Edelbrock heads is true though with limited piston availability.
 

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A Gen 6 502 block and 800HP will live. . .to many of theme out there doing it. A 540 CID mild compression engine, a good set of heads in 325 to 335cc range, and a target rpm of around 6800 oto 7000 will get you there.
 
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