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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have searched through most threads but have not come up with anything to resolve my dilemma. I pulled the dash to have it painted at the same time replaced the firewall insulation pad. Other than break the bulkhead connection with the fuse panel, hook and unhook switches lights and gauges , the remainder has been left intact.
After installation everything works except for the dash lights. I grounded the gauge cluster...no luck. I have removed the headlight switch and have power to the orange wire ( testing the connector. When I bench tested the switch I had variable resistance on the dashlight terminal with the knob pulled.

Is there another path the current can follow once it leaves the switch? I have no power at the lights. Any suggestions? I hate to pull the dash again but I think I am down to that.

Thanks!

Charlie
:(
 

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yes,...check the above stuff....in my case, i did basically the same thing.....turned out that the light switch itself gave up the ghost .....worked everything except the dash lights....switched in a spare switch....after scratching head many times....problem solved....i actually have two switches that both don't work just the dash lights(or maybe tail lights too)...never checked them....now in my parts bin...don't know if they can be fixed or not??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input. I noticed that the brake and signal lights were working on the rear but did not check the tail lights. They were not working. I chased the circuit back through the body connector , fuse panel and fuses , removing the fuse panel from the firewall.

I am not sure what happened , but I guess just unhooking and rehooking things , I got power back into the body connector. I pulled a dash light to see if there was power at the light. I pulled the Headlight switch and I had power and dash lights as well as tail lights.

Not sure what was the problem , but chasing back through the tail light circuit led me to the problem.
 
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