[Bigjohn65]

I have a 68 Chevelle, and just replaced the dash wiring harness because when I hooked up my new radio, something started to burn. I removed the entire harness and replaced it with one from American. When I turn on the key, the door buzzer works, and the oil & gen light come on as expected, but the car will not start. It's a 69 350 engine with a console. I just swapped out the neutral safety switch, and no change. All of the wires are hooked up correctly?? Why won't it start?

 

[Pioneer4x4]

You need to define "won't start"
what happens when you turn the key?
1 - absolutely nothing (starter wiring, key wiring, stuck bendix)
2 - clicking sound (weak batery)
3 - engine cranks over (fuel,ignition issue)
4 - engine cranks over and sputters (tuning)

kinda over generalizing, but need more than "won't start"

 

[Bigjohn65]

Battery is fully charged. When you turn the key to the right, it does absolutely nothing, no sound.

 

[Coppertop]

I have a 68 Chevelle, and just replaced the dash wiring harness because when I hooked up my new radio, something started to burn. I removed the entire harness and replaced it with one from American. When I turn on the key, the door buzzer works, and the oil & gen light come on as expected, but the car will not start. It's a 69 350 engine with a console. I just swapped out the neutral safety switch, and no change. All of the wires are hooked up correctly?? Why won't it start?

Stock replacement harness or American Autowire Classic update harness?

Did you check for power on the purple/white wire coming into the neutral safety switch with the ignition switch held in the "crank" position???

This thread has excellent troubleshooting steps:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=485385

 

[Pioneer4x4]

Start bypassing/jumping things. Confirm the column wiring is correctly connected, jump the starter directly to test it.
Other than that I can't think of anything obvious.

 

[Bigjohn65]

Stoch harness. The harness came with a "Y" plug. One end was ppl and other end is ppl/w. I took off the Y plug as I had separate ppl and separate ppl/w. Checked for power, but not with the switch in the crank position.

 

[Bigjohn65]

Joe, great info from the thread that you sent to me. Ed, thanks for the info. I disconnected the ppl, & the ppl/w wires that go to the neutral sqfety switch, and there is no power coming from them. Also, my headlights & taillights do not work, but the directionals, and brake lights do work.

I think that I need to pull the ignition switch out again and chack the connections. Any other ideas?

 

[Coppertop]

Do you have +12 volts on the large red wire going into the ignition switch? This is the main incoming power.

Check for power on the red wire as well on the headlight switch. These red wires are connected together inside the dash harness.

 

[Bigjohn65]

Checked the red wires on the lights and ignition, they have power. I believe that the problem is with the starteror solenoid. What are your thoughts?

 

[Coppertop]

Checked the red wires on the lights and ignition, they have power. I believe that the problem is with the starteror solenoid. What are your thoughts?

Well, before you suspect the solenoid, you have to verify power is even trying to get to it...

When holding the key in the "crank" position to start the car, you should have 12 volts on the purple/white wire leaving the ignition switch. If you don't, there is something going on with the ignition switch or related wiring.

You see when you turn the ignition switch key and hold it against the spring loaded start aka crank position, you provide a path for current between the red wire at the switch and the purple/white at the switch.


This is the first step.

 

[Bigjohn65]

Yes, I have 12V coming from the ppl/white wire.

 

[Coppertop]

Then it's a matter of finding out:

Does the purple wire leaving the neutral safety switch have 12 volts on it when cranking?

If yes, you'll need to make sure the car is in "park" and have an assistant crank while you use a meter or test light under the car to see if 12 volts is on the "s" terminal on the solenoid (terminal closest to engine block ).

If no, neutral safety switch is bad or out of adjustment. Fix and repeat tests.

 

[Bigjohn65]

The ppl wire leaving the neutral safety switch has 12 volts on it. There are no volts on the "S" terminal. Remember earlier when I said that I smelled something burning before I put in the new dash harness. I thing it may be narrowed down to the wire going to the "S" terminal, or the solenoid> Your thoughts? By the way Joe, thanks for the help you have already given to me!

Bigjohn

 

[Alan F]

It looks like your getting good help here. I don't want to derail your progress with my methodology, but the next place I would check is where the purple wire goes through the bulkhead connector. You should be able to find that wire coming in to the engine bay and test it with the key held in the "Start" position. If you have power, keep tracing it out to the solenoid. If you don't, the problem will be under the dash somewhere. Good luck.

 

[Alan F]

Also, I broke down recently and bought a Probe3 tester. It's made electrical diagnosis much simpler. You could disconnect that wire at the neutral safety, then energize it to test continuity.

 

[Coppertop]

I agree with Alan. You have to simply keep following the path. The next step is inspect/test the bulkhead as the purple wire has to pass thru the bulkhead connections to get to the starter solenoid's "S" terminal. Can you tell if the underhood wiring to the starter has been burned or damaged?

 

[Bigjohn65]

There is no power from the purple wire to the solenoid. Also, since my headlights and wipers do not work, they all come from the same harness. When I shorted out the wiring, (there is no visible damage to the wiring) the next area is the harness that connects all of them. Could I have shorted out the firewall portion of the haness that goes through to my fusebox? Is there a way to tell whether it is just the connection between the fusebox and the firewall part of the harness, (maybe I do not have it plugged in correctly, doubt it, but possible.

 

[Ark68SS]

Remove the bolt that holds the bulkhead connector together. Pull the two connectors apart and look closely for any bent/twisted terminals, or any that have been pushed back into the connector and aren't making contact with the wire terminals. Spread some dielectric grease on the connector and press it together and attach and tighten the bolt completely. Then see if your stuff works.
If it's not working, use a test light to see if current is flowing through both sides of all the fuses at the fusebox and that it's coming through the bulkhead connector under the brake booster. Also check the fusible links on the horn relay. Probe on the side of the wire that's past the crimped connector at the fuse link to the wire and see if you have current. There are three fuse links at the horn relay, and one from the battery to the junction block on the right (passenger) side of the radiator support.
Good luck,
BillL

 

[Bigjohn65]

Thanks Joe and Steamy. I finally found it. The damned purple plug on the bulkhead was slightly bent to the left, therefore not making contact. What were the odds that of all the wires not making a connection, it would be the purple one. Thanks very much for your help!!!

John

 

[Coppertop]

Thanks Joe and Steamy. I finally found it. The damned purple plug on the bulkhead was slightly bent to the left, therefore not making contact. What were the odds that of all the wires not making a connection, it would be the purple one. Thanks very much for your help!!!

John

"It happens"

Glad you got it figured out :beers: