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What block is the better block for a 540-572 motor + nitrous

Thank you
Bill (88502)
Would recommend the World block over the Dart, but down here would use the G.M. block at this time. Darts own maching leaves a lot to be desired. Worlds is running a close second.

Have a small Dart here now with mains one and a half thousand under the low. Brand new block, had about half thousand bearing clearance. It's in the hone tonight for tomorrow morning.

Harry P. Hunter
 

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Harry, why don't you return it rather than fix it on your own dime? If those guys started getting some of their junk back it might motivate them to start some QC. As long as the problems they send out don't come back to bite them they have little reason to improve.
 

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Tom its quicker and easier to fix it here. They got called about it.
I read up here some bad mouthing about Worlds parts. Darts not really any better to deal with. I'm really surprised they haven't fixed the pipe plug holes. They knew about this a long time back.

Norval, whats with all the dings in the main caps? Or is it just the picture.

Harry P. Hunter
 

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The Merlin III block I built 3 years ago was spot on perfect. All dims within tolerances (purchased finished honed) and been running fine since. :thumbsup:
 

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I've had great luck with my Merlin II. It was machined nice. Had to deck it a good bit to get the kind of tight quench I like.

We did a Dart recently...it's a really nice looking piece. But we found that the lifter bores were definitely left tight. They tll you to hone all of that stuff...so better check everything.

We also found funky pipe threads in oil gallerys? I take it it's pretty common?



JIM
 

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Hey Bill.......you building a secret weapon for Irwindale ?? It looks like I better step my vette up a bit !!

I have a GM Pro-Stock CNC Bowtie block I bought when they were almost 3,000.00. GM has since reduced the price to below 2,000.00 They are a VERY nice peice.

The Darts and Merlins are nice too, but talking to guys who know more than me a lot of them really like the GM CNC Bowties if you can find them.

How about a little info on this motor you are building.
 

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If you have a GM guy that knows how to find 'em, there are a few of the CNC Bowtie blocks left. With billet mains, the Dart or Merlin is well over $2200, GM is selling what they have left of the CNC Bowties at $1900.
 

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I personally like the Dart blocks. The dimensions are left a little undersize so I can put them exactly where I want them.

Everyone seems to have dimensions they like to run, so the little extra material allows me to be where I want to be.

I just picked up another brand new in the box Dart Big M AND a new in the box Dart Iron Eagle with the .391 raised BBC cam tunnel. The prices were too good to pass up. Both are for "shelf stock" till I figure out what to build next. :)

I guess the World blocks are OK, but I've been using the Dart products and have gotten good prices on them. Never had any issues with them, either.

I have NO experience with the Pro Stock GM Bowtie CNC, so I can't comment on them.


Randy
 

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Harry,

>> They got called about it.

And how much did that cost them?
 

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Don't 'ya just hate that FoMoCo blue?? :wacko:
I do...covered mine with multiple coats of Chev Orange like it should be.
 

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I am really happy with my CNC Bowtie Pro Stock block. It came with spalyed 4 bolt billet main caps and studs. It also came with a sonic sheet that shows the bore registers. The quality and finish was excellent. Everything checked out spot on. I think the Bowtie block may be a little more expensive than the Dart or Merlin. Mine was $2,080 including ~$80 in freight charges. Make mine GM :yes: The only downside to using this block is that it's hard to find information about it. Scoggin Dickey turned out to be a really good resource, as did my local Machinist Gary Grimes.

FWIW...
 

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If you decide to build a pump gas monster with a hydraulic roller cam, the CNC Bowtie block will accept OEM style lifters. I'll be using them on a Bowtie Sportsman block (same block, different caps and finish work) but I have the Crane high lift pieces.
 

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Had to use a hammer to beat the main caps into place. LOL
Next time try c-clamping the main bearing cap to close it up. Measure with a mike so it just slips into the block. You won't distort the cap and it will keep its tight fit.

"There is no mechanical device designed to be assembled with a hammer." Kirkwoodken
 

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Next time try c-clamping the main bearing cap to close it up. Measure with a mike so it just slips into the block. You won't distort the cap and it will keep its tight fit.

"There is no mechanical device designed to be assembled with a hammer." Kirkwoodken
I was only kidding. I never touched anything with a hammer. Might use a plastic weighted hammer but certainly no steel hammer and yes the marks are only the light reflecting off the rough surfac, that or the black assembly grease that came with my stud kit.
Honestly.:beers:
 

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If you have a GM guy that knows how to find 'em, there are a few of the CNC Bowtie blocks left. With billet mains, the Dart or Merlin is well over $2200, GM is selling what they have left of the CNC Bowties at $1900.
What is the part number for those blocks?

Thanks!!
 
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