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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
’72 / 350 / 350 Turbo column shift. My old right leg seems to want cruise control. Which one, and is it a difficult install? Thanks
 

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It's been years since I installed a cruise control but on the older cars they did not have a VSS signal that most newer cruise controls require to know how fast the car is going BUT with the right adaptors, you should be able to remove the speedometer cable from the transmission, put a VSS generator on, then reconnect the cable and then have to run a pair of twisted wires off of it to the cruise control module. Years ago a person had to glue magnets to the driveshaft and then install a pickup coil close to the spinning driveshaft to pick up a signal from when the magnets passed by it.

Most of todays cruises also do not require a vacuum source either but there will be connections needed for power, ground, and a signal from your brake switch.

On the controls for the cruise, some offer console type of mounts while others have controls that piggyback on the turn signal stalk, while others may even replace the turn signal stalk.

You will also have a connection to the throttle linkage on the carb and here too, with the right parts, it should go easily.

Through the years I have heard good reports about the Rostra brand.

Jim
 

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I have an Electronic Servo Cruise unit on my 70 --468. Did this many years ago. The trips from Pittsburgh, Pa. to Goodlettsville, TN. 8 9 times ?
My right foot could not take it. I use the cruise ALL THE TIME.
Very nice unit. It has the short speedo cable that attaches to the 700R4 and the org. cable attaches to this unit, And yes the wires are twisted Blue & Gray wires that go to the servo.
The unit is just like the G.M. unit in my Silverado.... Cruise--Coast--Resume--Add speed--Reduce speed--And other stuff I forget.
You cannot see mine. I hid it in the pass. side cowl, Then I bought the three piece plastic mesh screens to cover it up.
It is the nicest thing since sliced bread !
Bob
P.S. Dam near crashed the first time I used it, WHY ? I have all L.E.D. rear lighting, I had to install a relay to trip the " Brake switch UN LOCK ". WHY?
The same reason I had to use a motorized flasher for turn signals.
L.E.D.s do not draw enough Amperage to trip anything, Or heat up a flasher.
This cruise unit also has a engine " REV Limiter ". So If you bump it out of gear in CRUISE, The engine WILL NOT Over / Rev.
 

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I installed a vintage NOS aftermarket unit from ebay on my '68. It used a sensor on a bracket and magnets on the driveshaft. Low cost and worked well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks to all. gary - Can the DD unit be hooked up with the speedo at the tranny & not behind the dash? Also, is the brake light switch involved somehow? I ask because when I installed Vintage Air I messed with both the speedo cable at the dash & the brake light switch and remember they both fought me a bit. The older I get the more I’m into “easy”. Thanks
 

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On our 70 conv, I installed more or less a factory cruise. The wife and I searched through rows of Chevys at a pull apart salvage yard and got everything (and more) to install a factory cruise unit, including the factory turn signal handle with the push button. The only difference from a true factory setup is that 70-72 models had the servo mounted on the left inner fender next to the transducer. We used a (factory Chevy) bracket that mounts the servo to the threaded holes on the back side of the left head.













For the 56 Vette, I installed a Rostra cruise (Dakota Digital). It works GREAT!
Since the Rostra is all electronic, there is only ONE module with some wires and ONE cable which attaches to the carb lever.
I LOVE THE SPEED SENSOR ON THE ROSTRA UNIT!!!!!!! It simply connects between the speedo fitting on the tranny tail housing and the speedo cable, with 2 wires going to the module-------------------TOOOOOOOOOO SIMPLE!!!
The module can be attached somewhere under the hood, or, concealed inside the car with only the throttle cable and the 2 wires for the speed sensor going through the firewall somewhere of a person's choosing.

This is everything for the Rostra unit lying in the floor of the 56. It comes with an instruction booklet, but I also called the Rostra tech guy for some minor clarification.



It came with a universal bracket for attachment of the throttle cable under the hood, but I used it as a pattern to fabricate a neater looking bracket from some stainless I had.



I installed and hid my module up under the right side of the dash inside the 56.



This is the speed sensor.






This is the installed throttle cable (black) which I routed through an existing rubber grommet in the firewall.



This is the under dash controller I selected (there are other choices such as attachments to turn an existing turn signal handle). It has Off-On, Set, Accel, Resume, Coast, just like modern day cruise units.
 

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Thanks to all. gary - Can the DD unit be hooked up with the speedo at the tranny & not behind the dash? Also, is the brake light switch involved somehow? I ask because when I installed Vintage Air I messed with both the speedo cable at the dash & the brake light switch and remember they both fought me a bit. The older I get the more I’m into “easy”. Thanks
The adaptor shown in one of the above photo's (the part with the threaded nut/black housing with the paper tag on the wires) from DZAUTO is the part that goes in between the factory cable down at the transmission and the output of the transmission where the cable originally threaded onto.

As far as the brake signal, you can get this switched 12 volts at the brake pedal switch or at the harmonica connector on the column. I would not use one of those cheap scotch-clip type of connectors but get at the wire and cut it, slip over the wire a piece of shrink tubing, then reconnect the wires with the added wire from the cruise control and then solder the joint. Then once it's cool, slip the heat shrink over the bare wires and shrink the tubing down for a nice insulated connection.

A person too could with the right connectors, make up a "Y" connector for the connections at the brake pedal but with the one wire it might not be worth the aggrivation.

As far as an ignition 12V and possibly a lighting circuit, get those at the fuse block using some 1/4" female terminals to plug into the taps in the middle of th stock fuse block. For ground, use a ring terminal under an existing bolt on the firewall.

Jim
 

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The unit on Toms " DZAUTO " Vette. is the same unit I have on my 1970- Chevelle-468 Wagon. This unit is top shelf and has worked wonderful for years.
I will give it a VERY POSITIVE ... " YES " :thumbsup: I would buy another one.
Bob
 

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The Rostra unit is great, works just like factory and easy to install. I have put it on 4 different cars and haven't had a problem. There are a bunch of wires but they all plug to each other, there are only 5 wires that you have to connect to your car. You can buy it all from Summit Racing and choose which type of controls you want, either the turn signal stalk or dash mounted switches. If you have a tilt column it is very hard (impossible?) to get the wires run down inside the column. Also if you have LED taillights you need a relay for the brake light switch wiring.
I have had mine in my 69 Malibu for 5 years and cant say anything bad about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Appreciate all the info. Question: Is there any advantage to using either the turn sign lever or the dash mounted switches? To me, the turn signal lever seems most convenient, but maybe some choose the dash mount because of wiring or appearance? Thanks
 

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Appreciate all the info. Question: Is there any advantage to using either the turn sign lever or the dash mounted switches? To me, the turn signal lever seems most convenient, but maybe some choose the dash mount because of wiring or appearance? Thanks
To me, it's personal preference. Just like power window switches, you can have them on all of the doors or centralized like in a console. No real right or wrong.

This talk of cruises, reminds me of installs I did YEARS ago and getting wires down the columns but the more I did, the quicker I became and was not fighting them. The big secret was taking the molded plug off of the 4 control wires for the stalk switches, then taping them in a manner to make the grouping the smallest diameter you could do, then attaching it to some stiff wire to get the stiff wire thought the column and out down below and then pulling the wires through the area while also turning the steering wheel back and forth some to make sure there was no rubbing being felt so the wires were away from rotating and moving parts. Once the wires were run, the terminals were reinstalled into the plastic plug housing.

Years ago too, with the ones that ran off of engine vacuum, some cars I also had to install vacuum reservoirs. They are so much easier today to install. I even had one on a new vehicle that only required three electrical connections as it was a drive by wire system and the body computer was all ready setup for it.

Jim
 

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Appreciate all the info. Question: Is there any advantage to using either the turn sign lever or the dash mounted switches? To me, the turn signal lever seems most convenient, but maybe some choose the dash mount because of wiring or appearance? Thanks
Some steering columns are very hard to get the wire fed down the length of the column. Some just like the look of the switches. Just personal preference I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hope I’m not beating this to death, but: Do the wires have to go down inside the column? Maybe it would look tacky, but could they just run down the outside of the column?
 

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Hope I’m not beating this to death, but: Do the wires have to go down inside the column? Maybe it would look tacky, but could they just run down the outside of the column?
I would rather have too much info than not enough. You can certainly run the wires outside the column and may be able to attach some type of hold downs or surface mount channel to help hold the wiring in place.

Jim
 

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Hope I’m not beating this to death, but: Do the wires have to go down inside the column? Maybe it would look tacky, but could they just run down the outside of the column?
It wouldn't look too bad on the outside but it really isn't hard to run them down a straight (non tilt) column. The connecter is off the wires when you buy the kit, pull the steering wheel, remove the turn signal stalk and run the wires in the same hole as the stalk goes in. the wires just push down through the bottom of the column. Remove the steering column cover under the dash (4 screws) and the wires just pull out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Looks kinda crowded in there. Trying to figure out where the wires would go to get down the column. ??
 

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Looks kinda crowded in there. Trying to figure out where the wires would go to get down the column. ??
Right down the inside bottom, without the plug on the wires they slide right down, as long as it isn't a tilt column. Just pull the turn signal mechanism out of the way, no need to disconnect it.
 

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I have installed the wires in a tilt column without much trouble. Did a tilt/telescopic too. Just takes a little patience. The 2 Rostra units I installed had the plug already on the turn signal stalk wires and had to be removed to run the wires inside the column.

The G body column in my wagon



The Cadillac tilt/telescopic in the Nova

 

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I have installed the wires in a tilt column without much trouble. Did a tilt/telescopic too. Just takes a little patience. The 2 Rostra units I installed had the plug already on the turn signal stalk wires and had to be removed to run the wires inside the column.

The G body column in my wagon



The Cadillac tilt/telescopic in the Nova

Phillip, that's strange, I have installed several of these units and each one had the plug off when it came out of the box. Hmm like I said strange. I haven't tried a tilt unit but Rostra told me it wouldnt work in a tilt column. Oh well. Hopefully the OP gives it a try, as you know its not as hard as it looks.
 
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